‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This wonderful small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary flea market Feira da Ladra (a must see when you visit Lisbon) or after visiting the National Pantheon (on the background), in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like for example Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids – and also offers Wi-Fi. A little further down, there is a playground. 

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)

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March 2009

This outdoor market is held every Sunday from 9am to 3pm (summer hours are 8am to 2pm) at Lisbon’s most famous square, near the Tagus river, with imposing arcades, close to the majestic Triumphal Arch (Arco do Triunfo), the gateway onto the interior of ‘downtown’ Lisbon.

June 2009 Carlos Lages - erotic fantasy art ‘Father of the Humanity’ , 8 euro

Manuela Nunes creates hand made jewellery (website Bijutaria Artesanal) and very beautiful recycled shopping bags (10 euro)

Fernando del Pretti - video on his blog with a wonderful vintage magnetic collection (from 2 euro) and 20th Century Portuguese magazines. Mail: ffcc15@hotmail.com

You can also see Fernando del Pretti’s work on Saturdays at the legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

June 2009

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New address Feira Alternativa November 27 and 28, 2010: Rua Maria da Fonte, Mercado no Forno (Market)

All creations have in mind the reutilization and recycling of materials. At this Fair in Alfama, the Ladra Alternativa, you’ll find very creative Portuguese designers showing their work like jewellery, arts, crafts and fashion accessories.

You might have been visited Lisbon’s legendary ‘Feira da Ladra” flea market. Although this flea market has slightly the same name, “alternativa” (alternative) points to a different way of approaching this kind of market.

A few years ago (2006) a group of young creators came together to present their work. The market started out as an experiment, but it has really become a great success.

This alternative flea market introduces local Portuguese creators in jewellery, painting, fashion, photography and others. It’s an informal interpretation of art and you will be impressed with the very creative designs!

I bought Christmas decoration made from used Nespresso caps, price: 3 euro.

Alexis’ website , mail: alexis7218@gmail.com

You’ll have the chance to talk to the person who created what you’re buying, change ideas, thoughts and experiences.

The initiators of this Fair are Antonio Azevedo (l), and Patricia Brizido,

Ladra Alternativa, email ladralternativa@gmail.com

(See website).Opening hours: Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Price: free, there’s no ATM machine, so bring cash.

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Avenida da República near Saldaña square. A must-do is to have breakfast or lunch in the wonderful old tea- and lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles (opened in 1922) which has it’s own bakery.

Praça Duque de Saldaña. Monument of the great liberal Marshal who gives the square its name. Designed by Thomaz Costa and Ventura Terra, unveiled in 1909. The base of the monument contains a bronze figure of victory. At Saldaña Square there’s the highly frequented cinema Monumental where many young Portuguese meet in the bar of the cinema, ‘Movies’ .

Famous restaurant Galeto, a classic spot. Avenida Da República, 14. Open from 07.30 am – 03.30 (!). Delicious food and quite cheap (dinner and snacks). Galeto (movie) is well known in Lisbon for its friendly and courteous service.

Market mercado de Arroios , fresh fish, flowers and fruit. Arroios is a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops.

Estefania: a nice and very quiet area, with lots of typical Portuguese small business ‘mom and pop’ and food shops.

Rua Ilha da Terceira, Estefania. To eat out, try the pastelerias (cheap small restaurants, great Portugese food). Not one tourist in sight…..Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros.

The bill? Grilled salmon 5,50 euro, soup 0,90. A glass of wine 0,75.

Luxury shopping center Saldanha, quite near Avenida da Liberdade, (Liberty Avenue). This broad boulevard is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Paris with lots of luxury boutiques selling international brands. 

Marquis of Pombals’ statue , a despotic marquis….more…..The Rotunda, or, officially, Praça do Marqués de Pombal

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A good Dutch friend of mine is a coin collector, he asked me to browse the markets in Lisbon.  I’m not really interested in coins, but this is worth a visit!

It seems that mostly men are interested in coin collection………and they are trading furiously! On the background you see covered market stalls: on the other days of the week the market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbons biggest open food market , is selling everything: from inky octopus and fresh seafood to fabulous fruit, from real Portuguese products like ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body….

It’s really nice to walk around here, even if you are not looking for coins or old stamps. They sell more, like calendars, very old postcards and paper money. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy cultural center, selling locally produced items such as port, honey, and handicrafts.

Also at Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, you can find all kind of coins….

….and on every Sunday there’s a small flea market at  Praça do Comércio. This is João, don’t be afraid to negotiate the price!

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Market ‘A Feira da Ladra‘  (Lisbon’s famous flea market).

Alberto Gourgel and his old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines. This legendary market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel and Spanish photographer Lluís Salvadó Icart

On the other days of the week you can find Alberto and his beautiful creations in his atelier/shop quite near this market, opened in 2010: Rua Salvador 83

Feira da Ladra

Alberto: ”The last six years, I’m in to ‘vintage’, and I’m fascinated with the beautiful 20th Century Portuguese ‘vogue’ magazines. It’s not easy finding them, sometimes I’m lucky in a small museum or in very old bookshops”.

“The vernis is made by hand, an ancient procedure. It takes a lot of time because it’s very important to keep the original colors”. Besides Alberto decorates posters, walls, doors and room separators. Visit Alberto’s weblog

Flea market “Feira da Ladra“  (Campo de Santa Clara) is visited by lots of tourists from all over the world. The market in Alfama dates back around 800 years, though it may have been named ‘Feira da Ladra’ as late as the 17th century.

‘Biombo’ ( a room separator) created by Alberto Gourgel, prices from 75- 125 euro.

More information about the famous market Feira da Ladra on this website

Alberto’s work is also for sale in some antique shops in Lisbon and in loja (shop) ‘A Vida Portuguesa’. Owner is Catarina Portas. She has a passion for Portuguese identity, and everyday Catarina brings objects of the past back to life to inhabit modern-day homes.

‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado Lisbon

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The always very nice Portuguese people are proud to show you the fresh fish…

…..and take their time to make a friendly neighbourly talk.

This lively fresh produce & fishmarket is open from Monday-Saturday 07-00 till 14:00.

Mercado de Arroios, Rua Ângela Pinto, near the Arroios metro station, close to Estefania.
Selling locally sourced fish, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers.

Mercado da Ribeiro, famous market near the Tagus river

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Restaurant ‘O Panteao de Santa Clara’  near the legendary flea market

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the market (or maybe somtimes a quick nap….)

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso

From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon

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Open: daily 05:00 – 14:00. Closed on Sundays. Address: Avenida 24 de Julho

The cities biggest open food market is selling everything: from inky octopus and fresh seafood to fabulous fruit, from real Portugese products like ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body…..

This is Lisbon’s cheapest market. The seafood forms a large part of the Portugese diet with 1001 ways to cook it. Bacalhau is the Portugese name for cod, a very popular fish, so much that they have a different bacalhau recipe for each day of the year!

In 2007 the market celebrated a 125 year of existence: beautiful pictures are on the walls from fish sellers (varinas) of the Ribeira Market from a hundred years ago, when the fishermen moored their ship here to sell the fresh fish.

On Sunday mornings there is a Collectors fair from 09:00-14:00. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy ‘cultural’ centre. It sells locally produced items such as port and honey, and handicrafts. Website http://www.espacoribeira.pt/

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If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that fell of a lorry, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first.

Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price. It’s part of the game and if you don’t you’ll pay far too much. The market is held every Tuesday and Saturday, from dawn to dusk.

This nice Portuguese lady speaks French and English. Good stuff!

Alberto Gourgel (with white cap), designer.

Dogs in wintertime at market Feira da Ladra. Two bedroom authentic house for rent in Alfama, close to this market

In English: ’this one is Ronaldo’s and this one is Eusebio’s.

Maybe Portugal’s famous soccer star and sexy sportsman Cristiano Ronaldo has swapped his hotpants here for something more erotical than Armani’s underwear

March 2010. Michael Jackson’s bestselling album of all time, ‘Thriller’. Price 50 euro, but you can always try to negotiate.

The best way to enter Feira de Ladra is through the arch ‘Arco de São Vicente’ where tram 28 stops.

Feira da Ladra and the nearby National Pantheon in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Cheap and good restaurant near the market

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