Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

‘Old tram 28′ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines. Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

In February an exposition was held in a small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!

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Owner Maria Levy in her restaurant São Cristóvão, Alfama Lisbon

This small family-run restaurant is famous for its Cape Verdean- and other African dishes. The menu also includes typical Portuguese cuisine such as codfish (bacalhau) and sardines (sardinhas)

Moamba de Galinha (Angolan chicken stew), a very popular dish: € 6

Restaurant São Cristóvão is a favorite place among locals, with great food. You never pay more than € 7 for a dish. Mufete, a typical dish from Angola with fried fish, sweet potatoes, beans, peppers and cassava: € 6. Drinks: Super bock beer € 1.  Ginja , liqueur made by infusing ginja berries, a  favourite liqueur of many Portuguese: € 1,50.

Restaurant São Cristóvão owner Maria do Livramento Levy

Maria Levy: “ I was born in Cape Verde , Santiago,  the largest, greenest, most African island of Cabo Verde, one of Portugal’s former African colonies. 43 years ago I moved to Portugal and around 30 years ago I opened this restaurant in Alfama”. “We can provide seating space for up to 32 people”. And, after dinner: “You must try a ponche (punch) de Cabo Verde” (€ 2).

Pastel de Milho (corn), starter 1.80 euro, originally from Cape Verde

History: the Cape Verde archipelago was uninhabited when the Portuguese discovered it in 1456. African slaves were brought to the Cape Verdian islands to work on Portuguese plantations. As a result, Cape Verdeans are mulattos (mestiços in Portuguese), who have mixed African and European origins.

Maria Levy and her grandchildren. The walls in the restaurant are covered with paraphernalia from the Cape Verdian Islands and pictures.

Cape Verde split away from Portugal in 1975, nowadays Lisbon is home to most of the Cape Verdean diaspora, although large communities are also to be found in Senegal, the north-east United States, Holland, France and Italy.

Popular singer Cesária Évora, “the Barefoot Diva’, has made Cape Verde famous all over the world. She generally performs in bare feet, as a sign of solidarity for the large number of women and children back home in the Cape Verdean Islands who cannot afford shoes. Cesária Évora: ‘Saudade’  (youtube).  More (wikipedia)

Restaurant São Cristóvão, Rua de São Cristovão 28-30, Alfama Lisbon. Phone (00351) 914752102. Open from 12:00 to 24:00, also on Sunday

In case you visit Lisbon for the first time: this restaurant is not easy to find. From the city center walk to Rua da Madalena and climb the stairs from Escadinhas de São Cristóvão

Stairs to restaurant São Cristóvão from Rua da Madalena

Alfama is the most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, a narrowed maze of  tiny streets and stairs. Together with the nearby district Mouraria ( ‘where the Moors live’) the oldest areas in Lisbon. Nowadays the Moorish influence is still present.

Rua de São Cristovão  Lisbon, wall picture of Joaquim, a man who lived in this street

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‘FlowerPower’ cafe/restaurant & vintage interior design

As soon as you enter the place you feel the relaxed atmosphere,  perfect for a light meal. You can choose a dish of the day, salads, a soup, a slice of chocolate cake, sandwiches, or go for just a glass of wine or a cool glass of rosé, accompanied by Portuguese cheeses.

The cafe/restaurant with beautiful flower arrangements

Of course the café space is lovely decorated with plants. My choice for lunch: soup (sopa: creme de gourgettes) € 2; prato do dia (menu of the day) hachis parmantier € 6,50.

Christmas time, dog Suki is always very curious…

A small area in the cafe/restaurant with gourmet products allows you to take the finest ingredients to cook at home, or take away ‘dishes of the day’ (fusion food at low cost), salads, cakes and organic juices.

‘FlowerPower’ is sitated close to the most photographed spot in Lisbon, the famous Bica funicular

It’s also nice to watch the people on the street through the open door. Tram line 28  also passes this street, highly valued by tourists. The nearby Bairro Alto disctrict is posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out.

Next-door ‘FlowerPower’ shop  & Carlos Filipe, owner and designer. ‘You are from Holland? I love tulips!‘

The ‘FlowerPower Food’ is an extension of one of Lisbon’s coolest flower shops with the same name, created by Carlos Filipe and João Vasconcelos for over 10 years, very well-known in Lisbon for its unique and artistic flower arrangements for all types of events. Now the huge space is split into flowers and food, and customers can buy flowers, eat in the cafe-restaurant next door or buy take-away dishes.

Also available for a private party  (youtube video belly dancers), at minimum 15 people to participate)

Dog Suki in the flower shop… ‘Natal A chegar’…. (Christmas is coming)

Carlos Filipe: ”Before I came to Lisbon I lived 20 years in France (Lyon), and 5 years in Italy. I studied ‘Artes Plásticas’ (Plastic Arts) ; my atelier is in Sesimbra (30 km from Lisbon) ” . Carlos Filipe’s blog  and paintings

‘FlowerPower’ Food & Flowers

Calçada do Combro, 2 (Bairro Alto).  Open: Mon-Sun 10:00 to 21:00. mail@flowerpower.com.pt  , tel. + (351) 213 422 381

Beautiful Christmas window dressing 

Happy New Year! Feliz ano novo 2011!

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You can mix with creative locals at the bustling fair Ladra Alternativa, a treasure trove of original articles of jewellery, arts, crafts and fashion accessories, clothing, bags and much more, under the theme of recycling.

Rosa Lourenço shows one of her original handmade bags…..”All created with love!” . You can buy or just admire unique pieces here, the atmosphere is very relaxed.

..or maybe you prefer this one? (120 euro).Visit Rosa’s website for more creations (todayifeel) or send her an email for more information and prices rosalouren@gmail.com

Where to buy in Lisbon? OMLET exclusive artists productions,  in the center of Lisbon, Rua Garrett 19 and gift and souvenir shop AMATUDO, Rua da Madalena, nº76-78.

More about this fair on this blog & Christmas decoration made from used Nespresso caps

Check the website when the next fair will be held at the Dr Magalhães Lima Cultural Centre, Rua do Salvador, 2A, Lisbon

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Starting with recycled paper, cardboard and other materials, ended up reusing plastic bags to create new bags, wallets, lamps, laptop cases and much more… Sandra’s Myspace

Plastic bags were chosen just because they ‘’grow up’’ like mushrooms in our kitchens… everybody knows, and Sandra really had the feeling to do something with that !! Such a waste of material… But it wasn’t easy: the very first experience didn’t go very well…

Sandra took one month to grab it again and finally she created something attractive, useful and satisfactory: a small purse. The feedback was fantastic!She just had to think about how to improve a few things.

I bought this beautiful wallet (13 euro). You can also find Sandra’s work at ‘Ladra Alternativa’  (Alternative Fair), where very creative Portuguese designers show their work like jewellery, arts and fashion accessories.

Atelier Sandra Guerreiro: Rua Augusta, Lisbon. Mail Sandra. Phone (00351) 962344385.

You can see all models and sizes in Sandra’s album ‘’WORK’’ at Facebook… 

Sandra’s website  

SHOPS: LISBON Embaixada Lomográfica – Rua da Atalaia, 31 (Bairro Alto), Fabrica Features Lisboa – Megastore United Colors of Benetton, Rua Garrett, 83

More shops in Portugal: PORTO: ‘Muuda’ – Rua do Rosário, 294 ‘Corações Habitados’ – Rua Nova da Algândega, 65. SINTRA: ‘Maria Saudade’ – Rua da Ferraria, 15. COIMBRA: ‘Mau Feitio’ – Rua do Quebra-Costas, 42/44. TOMAR: ‘Uff Portugal’ – Rua Serpa Pinto, 139. BRAGA: ‘Conceito X’ – Rua Nova de Sta. Cruz, 30 – loja 5. FARO: ‘Líbido’ – Rua Concelheiro Bivar, 81/83. LAGOS: ‘Portugal the Best Of’ – Rua Cândido dos Reis, 47. MADRID: Reina Sofia Museum. NEW YORK: MoMA (soon).

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Cook Jesus Lee (Goan origin) and owner Maria dos Angus (Maria of the Angels) are really nice people. The genuine Goan family food is created with Jesus’ love !

Jesus Lee: “I was born in Goa in 1979. My mother expected a Christmas baby, but I finally arrived January 5. She is a fan of Jesus and my father admires Bruce Lee. I learned cooking from my mother, she really is a talented cook and I love it too. After finishing school, at the age of 14, I came to Portugal. In 1996 I met Maria, the owner of this restaurant and then we started to work together”. “I’m still a bachelor, looking for a nice woman

The atmosphere is very cosy and informal. I like the local cuisine very much, but the taste of the dishes (hot or medium hot) of the former Portuguese colony is delicious!  Lisbon has many immigrants from all the former colonies – amongst them the folks from Goa.

Camarão rechado (Prawn Massala 13,50 euro), small bottle of white wine 7.50, Chetni of coriander (sauce), Goan curry sauce, Chapati (Goan bread). Whow! From now, I am a fan of Jesus

Francisco Torres, Antonio Policarpo and José Pedro Torres

Tentações de Goa”, Rua S. Pedro Mártir, nº 23. Open for lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00 – 00:00. Closed on Sundays and Holidays. It is advised to make reservations! Vegetarian friendly. Call (00351) 218875824, Tlm: (00351) 914 814 043.

History: Goa, visited by large numbers of international and domestic tourists each year, is India’s smallest state, located on the west coast of India. Vasco da Gama is the largest city, named after the Portuguese explorer. The historic city of Margao still exhibits the influence of Portuguese culture, who first landed in the early 16th century as merchants, and conquered it soon thereafter. The Portuguese overseas territory existed for about 450 years, until it was annexed by India in 1961.

The tiny street in the afternoon.

Holiday apartment in this area, 3 bedrooms, patio & internet

Jesus & Maria are taking a break….

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Mouraria, June 12, 2009

Santo Antonio is also the matchmaker saint. A charming custom on the eve of June 12 is for young men to present a newly sproutet basil (manjerico), for a newly sprouted love) to the girls they hope to wed. A frilled and fluted tinsel-trimmed paper carnation of various colors blooms in each pot. Within the petals is a poem or message which indicates the young man’s passion. Often the flower is accompanied by a painted toy, a pretty fan, or some other trifle calculated to appeal to a maiden’s fancy.

Largo do Terreirinho  Mouraria

On the Eve of June 13 young girls try various methods of finding out whom they will wed. One favorite way is for a girl to fill her mouth with water and hold it until she hears a boy’s name mentioned. The name she hears is sure to be that of her future husband!

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center. The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Parades, feast, sardines, wine & live Fado music (2)

Live music, dancing and plenty of food and drinks like gaseous lemonade, wine, beer or sangria.

Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June in Portugal, high season for this delicious silvery fish. They were already eaten in the XV Century and grilled outdoors, due to the strong aroma that they free when roasting.

Party time, also for students! Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisbon 

The streets are filled with the delicious smell (and the smoke!) of sardines being grilled. After a couple of beers some students show the girls that boys are created with very strong muscles…..whow! 25 push ups!

Unique bar and top-class restaurant  ‘Anos 60′ has been established in the nineties in this neighborhood  More…….

Santo António was born in 1195 in Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood Alfama, where the small church of Santo António da Sé now stands. Young people write letters asking him to furnish sweethearts. These epistles are dropped into a box in the church. When love affairs prosper and suitable mates are found, the box receives thank offerings from the grateful lovers. Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings” are held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations. More information ‘Festas de Lisboa’

In June you can enjoy musicians singing fado music in the old trams, some are decorated with sardines…

Thanks to Dorothy Gladys Spicer

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Restaurant ‘O Fogareiro’ (The Stove) is located Rua da Atalaia 92, Lisbon

Try the traditional Portuguese gastronomy like their house specialties Bacalhau à Minhota (cod fish), Polvo á Lagareiro (grilled octopus), Arroz de Marisco (Portuguese seafood risotto), or ‘Bife A Fogareiro’.

Owner Francisco Barros preparing ‘Lombinho de Porco grelhados’ (porc), € 7,70

Rua Atalaia, Bairro Alto more…..

My choice for dinner: espetada con carne (delicious grilled meat on a stick, served with french-fried potatoes and dry rice) € 7.20, salade de tomates € 4.50, (tomato salad), copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1,80 , small bottle of water (agua) € 0,70.

Bottle of ‘house’ wine (vinho da casa): € 5.50 (really good): ‘Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo Vinho Regional Beira

Owner Manuel Dias: “Together with my friend Francisco Barros and his wife Maria we opened this restaurant 16 years ago; we still like it! You are very welcome, except on Sundays”.

At work in the small kitchen: Maria Barros (owner) and Alice Cerqueira

Rua da Atalaia in June 2009, more…….

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The restaurant’s entrance and the beautiful patio of the Palácio da Independência  (Palace of Independence), located near Rossio Square on the north side of the Largo de São Domingos. The building’s foundation stone was laid in 1509 and some of Manueline details from this time can still be detected in the inner courtyard, for example the door decorations. The two conical kitchen chimneys are reminiscent of the royal palace at Sintra.

Paulo Saraiva de Reffóios (with sunglasses): “Recently I started (February 2009) this restaurant. I used to work as a hotel director for 20 years but besides I always had a real passion for Portuguese gastronomy and for many years I enjoyed cooking for friends”. “At the moment you are welcome to enjoy a (Portuguese) lunch here (June 2009), dining is possible on request from 12 persons”.

The other 2 gentlemen are José Cardoso (and daughter Filipa) and Henrique Santos, ‘Lucinda Tudo Bom’ wine producers. At the table a delicious bottle of Douro wine: Fraga Alta (High Crag) Douro Doc 2003. If you wish you can order online.

My friend Erika and Paulo Saraiva de Reffóios, the very friendly and always joking restaurant owner. Our choice for lunch: salada de rucola com requeijao (salad with cream cheese) € 8; salmão fumada com boulgour (smoked salmon with bulgur) € 12; agua (water) € 2,50; um copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 2,50; bread and delicious salted butter € 3.

If you wish you can enjoy your lunch inside of this beautiful building.

The name Palácio da Independência (‘Independence Palace’) recalls a curious event that occured in 1640: a conspiracy against the Spanish occupation. If you are in Lisbon you can visit the palace each Friday, at 15:00. More…….

The walls of this former palace are decorated with beautiful azulejos (Portuguese tiles).The azulejo is a form of Portuguese painted, tin-glazed, ceramic tilework. They have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. Azulejo comes from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning polished stone.

Wherever you go in Portugal, azulejos are to be found inside and outside cafes, churches, palaces, ordinary houses and even ceilings, train- or subway stations. Many azulejos chronicle major historical and cultural aspects of Portuguese history.

‘Chaminés do Palácio’, Largo de Sao Domingos 11. chaminesdopalacio@gmail.com

Tlm (0351) 919450754

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It was given its original name of Palácio de Almada in honor of its former owner, the Count of Almada. The name Palácio da Independência (‘Independent Palace’) recalls a curious event that occured in 1640. Philip II of Spain had occupied Portugal in 1580, a year later he was recognized as King of Portugal.

Entrance restaurant ‘Chaminés do Palácio’ (‘the chimneys of the Palace’).

The loss of some colonies and the intense pressure of taxes levied to finance the Spanish wars led about 60 years later to a conspiracy among several of the Portuguese nobility. On December 1st, 1640 there ensued a successful rebellion, followed by the restoration of Portugal’s independence.

About 40 conspirators prepared for the action under the leadership of the Duke of Bragança (or Braganza) in the grounds of this palace.

The Duke, from who’s grandmother the royal family descended, was crowned João IV, King of Portugal. From a neighboring monastery the nobles reached the palace garden from across part of the old 14th C. city wall and gathered there in a small, isolated pavillion. It has even been suggested that there was an underground path linking the garden with the Baixa along which people could pass unseen.

Beautiful azulejos (tiles) representing the story of the conspiracy

The building’s foundation stone was laid in 1509 and some of Manueline details from this time can still be detected in the inner courtyard, for example the door decorations. Two conical kitchen chimneys are reminiscent of the royal palace at Sintra.

The Sociedade Historica da Independência de Portugal has its seat in this Palace. This society has awarded itself the task of keeping alive the memory of the happenings of December 1st, 1640 and the general consciousness of Portugal’s national history.

Ana Maria Proserpio, Directora dos Serviços Culturais (Director of Portuguese Cultural Services). In Ana Maria’s hand the keys of the palace. If you are in Lisbon you can visit the palace each Friday, at 15:00.

Every year on December 1st official memorial events take place both in the Palácio da Independência and at the Praça dos Restauradores

Palácio da Independência
Largo de São Domingos, 11
1150-320 Lisboa

Phone: 21 324 14 70 Email: ship.geral@ship.pt

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