Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.

Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa  is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

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Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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‘Vai Tu’  is a local community group. This neighborhood café is popular with locals who gather to sing along, located in Bica, close to the Bairro Alto area.

You won’t always find the best fadistas, but don’t let that scare you off. This is real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle, where the fado singers can enter spontaneously and improvise.

Every Sunday evening  fado singers and dinner from 20:00 – 24:00. No professional waiters, it’s a volonteer job. The traditional Portuguese food is simple, cheap but good (ca. 5 euro pp), a bottle of wine cost 5 euro.  The atmosphere is very relaxed and it’s a mix of young and old.

This singer is over 80 years old…Vai Tu’ provides a unique window into classic fado popular culture. YouTube

On the wall the legendary painting of Maria Severa

Fadistas often wear a black shawl of mourning as the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando did after her passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. She died at age of 26 in 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Grupo Excursionista ‘Vai Tu’ , Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 6-8  , a very picturesque small street with perhaps Lisbon’s most photographed funicular.

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“” Passeio o seu cão de saquinho na mão!” ‘Take your dog for a walk with a poop bag in your   hand!”

I saw this funny poster near one of my favorite places in Lisbon,  Miradouro da Graça. a splendid viewpoint offering a panoramic view of the castle and central Lisbon. The open-air cafe and its relaxing atmosphere is a favorite with young locals, especially in late afternoon. During the summer it remains open well into the night.

Home made coats… Feira da Ladra, Lisbons’ legendary flea market in wintertime (about 18 degrees C…..)

This one has very sad eyes….near the church in Rosssio, close to Palácio da Independência (Palace of Independece) and the famous small  ‘A Ginjinha’ cafe.

Rua da Costa do Castelo, walking up to the old castelo São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), located on the highest of the seven hills of the historic center of the city.

Alfama, at lunch time (almoço). The most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.   I manage to get lost every time I walk there…! It’s still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog….

One of my favourite places and of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradoura de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor. This bar and restaurant is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tejo river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people.

Picture: haiamisa

In Lisbon there are many beggars on the streets. Sadly enough some of them use animals and many tourists give money to this boy. The dog doesn’t look very happy on the street in the heat of the summer……you’ll find him ‘working’ in the city center Baixa.

Praça Dom Pedro IV  at Christmas time 2009

Portuguese Water Dog (picture: Chicago Tribune)

Obama’s daughter Malia walks the First Family’s new puppy, Bo, on the grounds of the White House.

So far, I never saw a Portuguese ‘Water Dog’ in Lisbon…… But maybe Obama bought him because these very smart dogs were often taken with sailors during  the overseas Portuguese discoveries ? 

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Availability calender 2009/2010
Welcome! For information or a reservation please call 0031 653941845, skype juliekr1956 or mail to thelisbonconnection@gmail.com to Julie Kruijs (owner).

Pictures: René van Gijn

Authentic apartment in Mouraria on the second floor, 3 bedrooms , free use of wireless internet connection and satellite TV. Outside sunny patio in summertime from March till October. Minimum stay 4 nights up to 4 persons or 3 nights with 5-6 persons. Price depends on season. You will be welcomed with a fine bottle of Portugese wine!

Direct from Dutch owner. The apartment is 120 years old and nicely renovated.  Near São Jorge‘ castle with its beautiful viewpoints. 3 minutes walk from starting point 28 antique tourist tram, metro and buses, square Martim Moniz. The supermarket is 5 minutes away. From the airport (8 km), a taxi will take you (about € 10-12 ) in 15 minutes to our apartment. Nearby Sintra, Estoril, Cascais and beaches of Costa da Caparica.

It is less than a 15 minutes walk from Bairro Alto, Lisbons heart of funky bars and restaurants.

Mouraria is a ancient area in the heart of Lisbon where fado was born, nowadays a multiculti and lively area filled with very cheap taverns. It’s not a noisy touristic area, but there’s traffic driving through the narrow one-way streets.

Though it’s very far south, Lisbon’s Atlantic breezes keep it generally a little cooler than other cities on the same latitude. June is probably the best summer month to visit, especially since the Saints’ festivals fall then. Spring and fall are very pleasant, warm, and sunny. Winter tends to stay warm too, but the rain can be relentless.

Facilities: living-room, 3 bedrooms, bathroom,  kitchen and patio

• living room with sofa-bed and table with 4 chairs. Satellite TV, radio/CD/DVD-player, wireless internet.
• 3 sleeping rooms with comfortable beds. 6 people can sleep comfortably. New duvets and luxury duvet-covers (Essenza);
• Chicco babybed plus mattrass ( 0-4 years).;
• bathroom with tub, shower, bidet, washing machine and dryer (free use). Towels, hairdryer;
• kitchen with fridge, magnetron, micro-wave, 4-burner-electric-cooker, pans, coffee-maker, fruit juicer, (wine) glasses, plates, cutlery, kitchen-linen etc.;
• outside: sunny (from April – October) and quiet patio. Large wooden table with 6 chairs, 1 relax chair and 2 parasols. BBQ;
• heating in all rooms.

Prices from May till October 2010:

• 2 pers. € 40 pp pn, 3/4 pers € 25/30 pp pn (from 4 nights), 5 up to 6 pers. € 20/25 pppn (from 3 nights).
• weekly price (7 nights): with 2 pers. € 450/500, 3 pers. € 550/600, 4 pers. 650, 5 pers. € 700, 6 pers. € 750

Prices till the end of April 2010 (with exception of Holiday-periods)

• 2 pers. € 35 pp pn, 3/4 pers. € 25 pp pn (from 4 nights), 5 up to 6 pers. € 20 pppn (from 3 nights).
• weekly price (7 nights): with 2 pers. € 350/400, 3 pers. € 450, 4 pers. € 550, 5 pers. € 600, 6 pers. € 650

In the months of November, January and February prices from € 350 a week with 2 persons, heating € 30.

Free use of wireless internet (no laptop available). Extra cleaning cost € 40/50. Arrival time: from 15:00. Departure: 11:00. Discount: 10% off between the 8th and 14th day. Reservation with contract and cancellation conditions. Inclusive: gas and electricity.

Payment procedure: 20 % by reservation to guarantee your booking and to block the dates off for you in the calendar. You are required to do the second payment (80%) at least 2 weeks before your arrival.

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Foto’s: René van Gijn

Gunstig gelegen appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon op de 2e etage (100 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik wireless internet en satelliet TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Tot 6 personen te huur. Zon van begin maart tot eind september op de patio. Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een oude volkswijk. Meer info over de buurt

Ideaal uitgangspunt om al wandelend de vele bezienswaardigheden van Lissabon te bezichtigen, geen metro nodig naar het centrum. Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er verkeer door het straatje en in Lissabon rijden de vuilniswagens ’s nachts. Levendige buurt met zeer vriendelijke mensen. Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Startpunt trammetje 28, metro, taxistandplaats en bussen bij plein Martim Moniz is 3 min. lopen.  Castelo de São Jorge ligt op loop afstand. Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica zijn makkelijk bereikbaar. De legendarische 16e-eeuwse uitgaanswijk Bairro Alto is ca. 15 min. lopen.

Historische wijken worden langzamerhand gerestaureerd, ook Mouraria, dat haar naam dankt aan vroegere bezetters, de Moren (Os Mouros). Het straatje ligt dichtbij twee centrale- en monumentale pleinen Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio in de volksmond) en Praca da Figueira. Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de  ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een multiculturele (volks)wijk.

In de buurt is een supermarkt, een bakker met lekker vers brood, veel kleine winkeltjes en goedkope typisch Portugese restaurantjes.

Klimaat & kleding: het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ’s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een (regen) jas of trui mee. Actueel weer.  lissabon.startpagina.nl/
Vakantie info Lissabon Gastvrij Portugal. Tickets:  TAP (Portugese luchtvaartmaatschappij) . Lissabon.nl (zoekt ook vanaf Brussel of Dusseldorf), SchipholTickets (onafhankelijke aanbieder van online tickets),
KLM, Ryan Air (naar Faro of Porto). Sneltrein naar Lissbon: Alfa Pendular (online ticket reserveren vanaf 30 dagen vooraf is mogelijk). Feestdagen in Portugal. Bus vanaf Lissabon naar Algarve

Indeling: (woonkamer, 3 slaapkamers, badkamer, keuken & patio

• woonkamer met 2-zits (slaap)bank en antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel. Originele houten balkenvloer (in alle kamers). Frans balkonnetje. 2 comfortabele extra stoelen. Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 81 cm LCD TV en DVD speler, radio, CD-speler, draadloze ADSL-aansluiting;
• 3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat);
• slaapkamer met 2- persoons bed aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast. Frans balkonnetje.
• tweede slaapkamer met 2 een-persoons (boxspring) bedden, die eventueel tegen elkaar geschoven kunnen worden (extra 2-persoons donsdekbed aanwezig);
• derde slaapkamer met 2 prima uitklapbedden incl. matrassen en donsdekbedden;
• Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr.;
• badkamer met douche, ligbad en bidet, gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid badlinnen van goede kwaliteit. Haardroger;
• luxueus bedlinnen (Essenza);
• keuken met tafel en stoelen, 2 koelkasten, magnetron, 4-pits kookplaat, oven, goede pannen, waterkoker, koffie/Nespresso zetapparaat, citruspers, (wijn)glazen, borden, bestek, keukenlinnen etc.;
• zonnige (van begin maart tot eind september) rustige patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 6 stoelen en een zonne/slaap stoel. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2e radio/CD-speler, grote parasol;
• de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden.

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Great old Moorish neighborhood: 2 -bedroom very old house in Alfama, Beco da Lapa, historic part of Lisbon. Weekly prices from € 350 /€ 400 (high season) with 2 persons, 3 night stay minimum € 35/40.  3 u/i 5 pers. € 25 pp pn. Cleaning € 40. Free internet access.

For information or reservation please call or mail to thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  Julie Kruijs. Skype: juliekr1956. Mobile: 0031 653941845.

This small but very charming 300 years old house is situated in a quiet area of  Alfama, one of the most popular neighbourhoods of Lisbon. Nicely renovated (3 floors, a maximum of 5 persons can share it).

Owner Pedro Silva will welcome you with a fine bottle of Portuguese wine. The house is located 8 km from Lisbon’s airport, near a narrowed maze of streets full of fado houses and restaurants, passing up the hill at São Jorge castle with its viewpoints over Lisbon downtown. Nearby Sintra, Estoril, Cascais and beaches of Costa da Caparica.

Located near the Sta. Apolónia train and metro station and one of the hippest nightclubs in town: Lux. Nearby you will find the National Pantheon and the legendary flea market “Feira da Ladra”. Pedro Silva, the Portuguese owner (see picture) owns one of the most popular bars in Bairro Alto, Capela, Lisbons heart of funky bars and restaurants.

If you are bringing your own car, this is one of the few areas of Lisbon with an easy parking space (€ 5- 7 a day). From the airport, a taxi will take you (about € 10) in ca. 15 minutes to this house.

The house (75 m2): 3 floors; living room with full equipped kitchen (electro domestics as a microwave, washing machine, dryer etc.) and an area to eat with a table for 5 persons; lounge area including 2 comfortable double sofa-beds, cable TV and CD/DVD/mp3 equipment; Bedroom including 1 double bed for 2 persons, large closet and small bathroom with tub and toilet. Excellent eco heating system.

Prices u/i April 2010 (Holidays excluded):

2 pers. € 35 pppn, 3 u/i 5 pers. € 25/20 pp pn (starting from 3 nights).
Week (discount, 7 nights) : total price with 2 pers. € 350, 3 pers. 400, 4 pers. € 450, 5 pers. € 5o0.

From May u/i September 2010:

2 pers. € 40 pppn, 3 u/i 5 pers. € 25/€ 30 pp pn (starting from 3 nights)
Week (7 nights, discount): total price  with 2 pers. € 400, 3 pers. € 450, 4 pers. 500, 5 pers. € 550.

Prices include: bedlinen, towels, all the bills, use of washing machine, dryer and heating. Excl.€ 40/50 final cleaning. Arrival time 13:00, departure: 11:00 a.m. Discounts: 10% off between the 8th and 14th day.

Payment procedure: 20 % by reservation to guarantee your booking and to block the dates off for you in the apartment’s calendar. You are required to pay at least 2 weeks in advance. Reservation with contract and cancellation conditions.

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‘Borrego no forno’ (lamb in oven € 6,50). Starters: pão e azeitonas (bread and olives € 1,20), copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine € 1.00), bica pingada (espresso with a drop of milk € 0,55). 

This is one of my favorite restaurants in Lisbon: really good service and a very friendly staff.

Owner Alvaro Martim: ‘From 1938 this place is a restaurant. All I know is that it used to be a shop selling spices from India”.

The Casa da Índia was established in Lisbon around 1500. This Portuguese organization had been based in Lagos in Southern Portugal, but after Prince Henry the Navigator died in 1460, the ‘House of India’ moved to Lisbon, and was located at the Terreiro do Paço (better known as the famous Praça do Comércio , Commerce Square). The building was destroyed by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.

Gambas á guilho (garlic prawns) 12.50 euro, delicious! This restaurant is very popular and lively,  the marisqueira (seafood) is divine and cheap.

Portugal probably is the best place in Europe to enjoy seafood; the Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well!

On the wall: the Duke of Viseu (Henry the Navigator), patron of the Portuguese exploration. During 1415-1542 Portugal discovered an eastern route to India that rounded the Cape of Good Hope, they discovered Brazil, established trading routes throughout most of southerns Asia, colonized selected areas of Africa and sent the first direct European maritime trade and diplomatic missions to China.

Restaurant ‘Casa da Índia’, Rua Loreto 51, near Bairro Alto. Opening hours: Monday -Saturday: 09:00 – 02:00. Closed on Sundays.

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Mouraria, June 12, 2009

Santo Antonio is also the matchmaker saint. A charming custom on the eve of June 12 is for young men to present a newly sproutet basil (manjerico), for a newly sprouted love) to the girls they hope to wed. A frilled and fluted tinsel-trimmed paper carnation of various colors blooms in each pot. Within the petals is a poem or message which indicates the young man’s passion. Often the flower is accompanied by a painted toy, a pretty fan, or some other trifle calculated to appeal to a maiden’s fancy.

Largo do Terreirinho  Mouraria

On the Eve of June 13 young girls try various methods of finding out whom they will wed. One favorite way is for a girl to fill her mouth with water and hold it until she hears a boy’s name mentioned. The name she hears is sure to be that of her future husband!

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center. The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Parades, feast, sardines, wine & live Fado music (2)

Live music, dancing and plenty of food and drinks like gaseous lemonade, wine, beer or sangria.

Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June in Portugal, high season for this delicious silvery fish. They were already eaten in the XV Century and grilled outdoors, due to the strong aroma that they free when roasting.

Party time, also for students! Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisbon 

The streets are filled with the delicious smell (and the smoke!) of sardines being grilled. After a couple of beers some students show the girls that boys are created with very strong muscles…..whow! 25 push ups!

Unique bar and top-class restaurant  ‘Anos 60′ has been established in the nineties in this neighborhood  More…….

Santo António was born in 1195 in Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood Alfama, where the small church of Santo António da Sé now stands. Young people write letters asking him to furnish sweethearts. These epistles are dropped into a box in the church. When love affairs prosper and suitable mates are found, the box receives thank offerings from the grateful lovers. Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings” are held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations. More information ‘Festas de Lisboa’

In June you can enjoy musicians singing fado music in the trolleys, some are decorated with sardines… more information on events during Festas de Lisboa

Thanks to Dorothy Gladys Spicer

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Restaurant ‘O Fogareiro’ (The Stove) is located Rua da Atalaia 92, Lisbon

Try the traditional Portuguese gastronomy like their house specialties Bacalhau à Minhota (cod fish), Polvo á Lagareiro (grilled octopus), Arroz de Marisco (Portuguese seafood risotto), or ‘Bife A Fogareiro’.

Owner Francisco Barros preparing ‘Lombinho de Porco grelhados’ (porc), € 7,70

Rua Atalaia, Bairro Alto more…..

My choice for dinner: espetada con carne (delicious grilled meat on a stick, served with french-fried potatoes and dry rice) € 7.20, salade de tomates € 4.50, (tomato salad), copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1,80 , small bottle of water (agua) € 0,70.

Bottle of ‘house’ wine (vinho da casa): € 5.50 (really good): ‘Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo Vinho Regional Beira

Owner Manuel Dias: “Together with my friend Francisco Barros and his wife Maria we opened this restaurant 16 years ago; we still like it! You are very welcome, except on Sundays”.

At work in the small kitchen: Maria Barros (owner) and Alice Cerqueira

Rua da Atalaia in June 2009

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