Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.

Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa  is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

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Praça da Figueira

Remarkable: from the 16th to the 19th centuries, Brazil was a colony of Portugal

Rúa Augusta, Lisbon’s famous boulevard and one of the best-known shopping streets

Beautiful Portuguese girls

Catarina Tomais da Silva and Rui, waiters in Pastelaria Casa Brasilia (very popular and delicious food!) Rua Augusta 267

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B near Praça da Figueira . In the month of June all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights (Festas Populares)

Inside the restaurant

…and of course the elephant sound of the vuvuzelas!

After the match…..Portugal vs Brazil: 0-0: both countries happy

Holland vs Brazil, near the famous Rossio Station. A big screen at Largo Duque de Cadaval, a beautiful place, full of open sunny open-air cafes and restaurants.

Holland vs Brazil: 3-1. Dutch and Brazilian football fans are watching the game.

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Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport. As far as I know nobody here seems to complain

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

An example of a ’front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos Prazeres, Praça São João Bosco  More about cemeteries in Portugal

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The (yellow) and famous tourist attraction funicular in Bica. Artist Alexandre Farto  covered the outside of the funicular with mirror-acrylic, called it ’Espectro’  (Spectre) and pays tribute to the neighbourhood that is reflected in the lift during the journey, as if it were a film…. (From January – June 2010). Amazing!

This project  ‘Art in movement’  (”Arte em Movimento”) is part of a Cultural Program for the promotion of Public Art, which CARRIS  (bus & tram services including timetables) intends to carry out in some vehicles of its public service fleet. In 2010, the chosen vehicles were one lift (the Santa Justa) and the 3 funiculars, all of them are national monuments since 2002.

Typical Portuguese:  hanging laundry, drying in the wind.

It climbs the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo for 245 metres from the Rua Sao Paulo.

Largo de Santo Antoninho, right next to Bica’s funicular downhill starting point.

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Camões Square (Praça Luís de Camões), just behind Camões’ statue , close to the statue of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Pessoa (1888-1935),  still mobbed by many tourists nowadays and a good, cheap and traditional Portuguese restaurant ‘Casa da India’.

Park Principe Real

After shopping people like to take a break in this wonderful park with lots of exotic plants and trees, near Bairro Alto, posssibly one of the best (and gay) spots in Europe for a night out! Les Mauvais Garçons , popular and ”très-chic” cafe/restaurant.  

Nearby you’ll find the  Botanical garden , one of Europe’s finest.

Kiosk Rua Dom Pedro

Rua Dom Pedro V  is a wonderful avenue for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

 Largo Trindade Coelho

Small kiosk near ‘Casa da Comida’ (’ the house of food’), a new cafetaria/ restaurant in the wonderful bamboo garden of Museum São Roque. This museum and church is home to Italian art from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Cais do Sodré

Cais do Sodré  is Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation ( ‘Linha de Cascais’  name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) and ferry terminal. A major bus station is sited outside the front of the Cais do Sodré station, with a Carris  small kiosk selling transport passes, tickets and guides.

On the background Restaurant Marisqueira ‘Guarda Rio’, overlooking the river Tagus, the marisqueira (seafood) is unfailingly fresh!

Viewpont Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This wonderful belvedere will give you a unique insight into the city and magnificent views on the old Moorish castle Castelo de São Jorge.

Above Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra .  The Moorish influence is still present in Alfama and in Mouraria, where the Moors kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. Authentic 3-bedroom apartment with patio for rent in this old Moorish quarter

After browsing the market it’s a good idea to have lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao de Santa Clara’  just above the market, serving real Portugese food for a good price.

‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon overlooking the Tagus river, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. From this vista point you have the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, nearby my favorite cafe/bar Noobai 

Kiosk Rua de São Paulo, near Cais do Sodré  station and, on the other side of the road,  Mercado da Ribeira (famous market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome.

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Sofa Joe – Jonathan de Pas, Italy (1932-1991)

This hugely important group of works, due to the creators represented and the quality and significance of the objects brought together, has a particular coherence and intrinsic unity stemming from the direct and complementary relation between the two areas (design and fashion).

Designers of this beautiful dress: the Portuguese duo Storytailors.

MUDE is a space for all 20th and 21st century design forms, from graphic to urban, taking in fashion and equipment; from mass production to the creation of the artist. A space to considering design, researching into its holdings, developing an editorial policy, a temporary programme and educational activity that provides different spaces for the sharing of ideas. It must also, however, be a space for experimentation and creation, showing the proposals of new creators, encouraging new research and creating dialogues with the visual arts and architecture, the cinema and dance, music, science.

The unique building has a long history. Local architects Joana Vilhena and Ricardo Carvalho have left the interior in the rough state they found it, with walls, columns, and ceilings stripped of finishes. More……. A wonderful idea! It’s located in the middle of Lisbon’s historic Pombaline center. Eight floors occupy in total a floor area of appr. 14.000 m2. The renovation is still in progress.

Aristocratic elegance: Christobal Balenciaga (Spain 1895-1972)

Pierre Poulin’s (France, 1927) long sofa Amphys which can be arranged in different positions

Paco Rabanne (Spain, 1934). Calf length boots, metallised leather (1965)

Also, there’s a lot of design showpieces, wonderful movie clips and music

Design and fashion were assembled in a complementary manner, with each piece chosen through a concept-based museum dialogue, and not according to personal tastes. Comprised of furniture and small everyday objects, both unique and mass-produced, the collection reflects 20th century’s major design trends and movements.

MUDE (MUseum and DEsign) which means ‘change’ in Portuguese), Rua Augusta 24 Lisbon. Opening hours: from Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday: 10:00 am-20:00 pm
Friday and Saturday: 10:00 am-22:00 pm. Closed on Monday. You can visit the museum for free.

Thanks to Graça Rodrigues, Head of Communication & Press

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Cook Jesus Lee (Goan origin) and owner Maria dos Angus (Maria of the Angels) are really nice people. The genuine Goan family food is created with Jesus’ love.

Jesus Lee: “I was born in Goa in 1979. My mother expected a Christmas baby, but I finally arrived January 5. She is a fan of Jesus and my father admires Bruce Lee. I learned cooking from my mother, she really is a talented cook and I love it too. After finishing school, at the age of 14, I came to Portugal. In 1996 I met Maria, the owner of this restaurant and then we started to work together”. “I’m still a bachelor, looking for a nice woman

The atmosphere is very cosey and informal. I like the local cuisine very much, but the taste of the dishes (hot or medium hot) of the former Portuguese colony is delicious!  Lisbon has many immigrants from all the former colonies – amongst them the folks from Goa.

Camarão rechado (Prawn Massala 13,50 euro), small bottle of white wine 7.50, Chetni of coriander (sauce), Goan curry sauce, Chapati (Goan bread). Whow! From now, I am a fan of Jesus

Francisco Torres, Antonio Policarpo and José Pedro Torres

Tentações de Goa”, Rua S. Pedro Mártir, nº 23. Open for lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00 – 00:00. Closed on Sundays and Holidays. It is advised to make reservations! Vegetarian friendly. Call (00351) 218875824, Tlm: (00351) 914 814 043.

History: Goa, visited by large numbers of international and domestic tourists each year, is India’s smallest state, located on the west coast of India. Vasco da Gama is the largest city, named after the Portuguese explorer. The historic city of Margao still exhibits the influence of Portuguese culture, who first landed in the early 16th century as merchants, and conquered it soon thereafter. The Portuguese overseas territory existed for about 450 years, until it was annexed by India in 1961.

The tiny street in the afternoon

Jesus & Maria are taking a break….

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Geweldige oud Moorse wijk! Voor informatie of reservering van dit huis in Alfama of het appartement in Mouraria kunt u mailen of bellen met Julie Kruijs: 0031 653941845. Skype: juliekr1956.

Vanaf 3 nachten te huur. Bij 3-5 pers € 25 pppn. , 2  pers € 35/40 pppn, week (korting) € 350′400 (2 pers), afh. van seizoen. * Gratis gebruik internet.

Authentiek eeuwenoud huis , op een gunstig plekje (Beco da Lapa) in de historische wijk Alfama, dichtbij de vele culturele attracties van Lissabon en  (fado) restaurantjes. Kasteel São George ligt op loopafstand. Het huis is sfeervol verbouwd; 75 m2, verdeeld over drie etages, compleet en comfortabel ingericht. Gratis gebruik van internet. Uitstekende verwarming voor de winterperiode.

Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km, vlakbij trein- en metrostation Santa Apolonia en de rivier de Taag. Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica, zijn makkelijk bereikbaar; het openbaar vervoer in Portugal is uitstekend, per boot, bus, metro, tram of trein. De aimabele Portugese eigenaar, Pedro Silva, spreekt uitstekend Engels en is tevens eigenaar en DJ van het beroemde cafe Capela in Bairro Alto, de legendarische uitgaanswijk van Lissabon.

Meer info over de ligging. In de nauwe straatjes is het heerlijk slenteren met de vele trappen, terrasjes en intieme (fado) restaurantjes met heerlijke vis- en vleesgerechten . Dwars door de wijk kronkelt trammetje 28. De legendarische Feira da Ladra (openlucht rommelmarkt) is 5 min. lopen. Kleine supermarktjes in de buurt, supermarkt Pingo Doce 10 minuten lopen (bij station Santa Apolonia).

Klimaat & kleding: het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. ’s Winters kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ’s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, flink afkoelen. Neem (ook voor een regenbui) altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer.  Tickets: Tap Portugal , KLM, Lissbon.nl .

Indeling: 1e etage: eettafel & 5 stoelen, kleine open keuken met 4-pits gasfornuis, koffiezetapparaat, waterkoker, alle benodigde keukengerei, koelkast, wasmachine, droger, magnetron, luchtbevochtiger. 2e etage: woon/lounge ruimte met twee uitstekende 2-persoons zit/bankbedden, extra prima uitklapbed, kabel TV met vele kanalen, CD-speler, DVD/ MP3/stereo, hangkast, gemakkelijke stoel. 3e etage: slaapkamer met 2-persoonsbed, grote kledingkast, kleine badkamer met ligbad, toilet en wastafel. Bed- en badlinnen in ruime mate aanwezig. Het huis is door de iets hogere ligging ’s zomers redelijk koel.

Prijzen t/m april 2010 (uitgezonderd vakantieperiodes).Vanaf 3 nachten te huur.

2 pers. € 35 pppn, 3 t/m 5 pers. € 20/25 pp pn. Weekprijs (7 nachten, korting) : met 2 pers. € 350, 3 pers. 400, 4 pers. € 450, 5 pers. € 500.

Mei t/m september 2010:

2 pers. € 40 pppn, 3 t/m 5 pers. € 25 pp pn. Weekprijs (7 nachten, korting): met 2 pers. € 400, 3 pers. € 450, 4 pers. 500, 5 pers. € 550.
Prijs bij 6 nachten niet boven de weekprijs. Verblijf langer dan een week, 2e week 10 % korting.

Reservering met huurcontract incl. coulante annuleringsvoorwaarden. Prijs is excl. eenmalige schoonmaakkosten van € 40 . Het huis is beschikbaar vanaf 13:00. Uiterlijke vertrektijd 11:00. Reist u met de auto? De parkeergarage in de buurt rekent € 5- 7 per dag.

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‘Borrego no forno’ (lamb in oven € 6,50). Starters: pão e azeitonas (bread and olives € 1,20), copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine € 1.00), bica pingada (espresso with a drop of milk € 0,55). 

This is one of my favorite restaurants in Lisbon: really good service and a very friendly staff.

Owner Alvaro Martim: ‘From 1938 this place is a restaurant. All I know is that it used to be a shop selling spices from India”.

The Casa da Índia was established in Lisbon around 1500. This Portuguese organization had been based in Lagos in Southern Portugal, but after Prince Henry the Navigator died in 1460, the ‘House of India’ moved to Lisbon, and was located at the Terreiro do Paço (better known as the famous Praça do Comércio , Commerce Square). The building was destroyed by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.

Gambas á guilho (garlic prawns) 12.50 euro, delicious! This restaurant is very popular and lively,  the marisqueira (seafood) is divine and cheap.

Portugal probably is the best place in Europe to enjoy seafood; the Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well!

On the wall: the Duke of Viseu (Henry the Navigator), patron of the Portuguese exploration. During 1415-1542 Portugal discovered an eastern route to India that rounded the Cape of Good Hope, they discovered Brazil, established trading routes throughout most of southerns Asia, colonized selected areas of Africa and sent the first direct European maritime trade and diplomatic missions to China.

Restaurant ‘Casa da Índia’, Rua Loreto 51, near Bairro Alto. Opening hours: Monday -Saturday: 09:00 – 02:00. Closed on Sundays.

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