National palace in Queluz Lisbon: Rococo style, sexual orgies, Secret Histories & queen Carlota Joaquina

The National Palace in Queluz is one of Lisbon’s top tourist attractions, easy to reach by train from Lisbon or from Sintra. From outside the palace looks romantic, but what happened behind these walls when the Portuguese royal family lived here, about 200 years ago?

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district & wonderful French-styled garden

History of Portugal & exorbitant decorated rooms in Rococo style 

While walking around in the many exorbitant decorated rooms of the National Palace in Queluz (Palácio in Portuguese , you realize that a ‘one afternoon’ visit is too short. Each room represents a piece of history of Portugal, as well as of Brazil. The information in English is quite basic, unfortunately. In case you don’t like a group tour guide: there’s real good info at f.i. Wikipedia.

National Palace in Queluz & Robillion staircase: ingeniously designed steps adorned with statuary

Discovery of Brazilian gold & the wealth of Portuguese colonies

Queluz’s Palace architecture is representative of the final extravagant period of Portuguese culture that followed the discovery of Brazilian gold in 1690.

The National Palace in Queluz & YouTube video: an impression

Brazil was a Portuguese colony from 1500 till 1822; nowadays the Portuguese is still the language of the majority of people in Brazil.

National Palace in Queluz & one of the 2 sphynxes dressed in 18th-century costume

Foreign artists, architects & newly enriched aristocracy

From the beginning of the 18th century many foreign artists and architects were employed in Portugal to satisfy the needs of the newly enriched aristocracy; they brought with them classical ideas of architecture which derived from the Renaissance.

In its design, Queluz is a revolt against the earlier, heavier, Italian-influenced Baroque which preceded the Rococo style throughout Europe.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon, the ballroom & some tourists , June 2017

Royal residence from 1794 – 1807 & Queen Maria I : a very sad story

Dom Pedro III started the construction of the Palácio de Queluz in 1747.  He married his 17 years younger niece D. Maria, Princess of Brazil, (1734-1816) in 1760. The couple had a happy marriage and they got six children.

But queen Maria suffered from religious mania and melancholia. This acute mental illness (perhaps due to porphyria) made her incapable of handling state affairs after 1792.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” (Japonese drawings) decorated with tile panels (azulejos) illustrating the wealth of Portugal’s colonies

1794: Ajuda Palace destroyed by fire 

When the palace of Ajuda burnt down in 1794, the court was forced to move to the Queluz Palace, where the ill queen Maria would lie in her apartments all day. Visitors would complain of terrible screams that would echo throughout the palace. Her condition worsened after the death of her husband and the deaths from smallpox of her elder son and her daughter and their infant son. Maria died in Rio de Janeiro, aged 82. More……

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & one of the excessive decorated rooms

The juicy story about Queen Carlota Joaquina (‘the fury’ of Queluz)

Queen Maria’s second son João (John, nicknamed ‘the Clement‘), took over the government in her name. In 1816, he succeeded his mother as monarch of the Portuguese Empire .
On May 8, 1785 Carlota Joaquina (1775 – 1830) of Spain was officially married to the future king João VI. The marriage was not consummated until 9 January 1790, when Carlota was 15 years old.

Doña Carlota Joaquina of Spain (Carlota Joaquina de Borbón y Borbón-Parma). Picture: Wikipedia
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Marriage Joaquina Carlota with corpulent João (John) VI & the miracle of nine handsome children

Joaquina’s husband was good-natured, indolent, corpulent and almost as ugly as she was. His religious observances bored her, and they were quite incompatible. Nevertheless, she gave birth to nine children and, because they were all handsome, it was rumoured that especially the younger ones had a different father.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & the empire bedroom

Sexual orgies 

After the birth of the ninth child the couple began to live separate lives. It was rumoured that Joaquina had bought a retreat where she indulged in sexual orgies. Source: Vortex magazine, WikiPedia

Movie trailer YouTube (English spoken) Carlota Joaquina Princesa do Brazil

Several Movies and TV series have been made about Carlota Joaquina‘s life. She had a bad reputation: infidel, manipulative and nymphomaniac. Carlota was religious, faced men and also transgressed the social norms of the time, which caused her to have many conflicts, also with the Portuguese authorities.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & “Sala de Mangas” decorated with beautiful tile panels

Napoleon Bonaparte & transfer of the Portuguese court to Brazil in 1807

Anticipating the invasion of Napoleon’s army, Joaquina’s husband João VI ordered the transfer of the Portuguese royal court to Brazil before he could be deposed.

Carlota Joaquina fought until the last minute not to leave for Brazil, asked for help from her parents, but diplomatic agreements made it difficult for Spanish kings to participate in Portuguese affairs.

National Palace in Queluz district Lisbon & entrance restaurant June 2017

Carlota Joaquina & caipirinha, Brazilian’s famous cocktail

Caipirinha is the national drink in Brasil and also very popular in Portugal. It is said that Carlota Joaquina invented the drink when she lived in Brazil, mixing her beloved Cachaça liquor (a spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice) with fruit and sugar. Supposedly, she drank incredible quantities of the liquor, and the palace had to order dozens of bottles for her each month.

Delicious! Caipirinha Recipe (and video)

Ingredients of the caipirinha. Picture: Wikipedia

‘Secret Histories of Portuguese kings’

“The nymphomaniac wife of King João VI, Carlota Joaquina, will have been the ‘inventor of caipirinha“, according to writer and journalist Alexandre Borges. Book: ‘Histórias Secretas de Reis Portugueses’ (‘Secret Histories of Portuguese Kings’), in a new edition.

As the Napoleon wars ended, Carlota returned with the king and the family to Portugal in 1821. She died at the Queluz Palace in 1830 at the age of 54.  It is speculated whether she died because of natural causes or whether she, in fact, killed herself.

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

On the assassination Carlos I in 1908, the palace passed into the ownership of the state. Portugal was in the turmoil of revolution and the monarchy fell two years later.  Since 1940 it has been open to the public as a museum.

Worth a visit!

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

 

Prices, opening times & how to get to the Palace in Queluz from Lisbon

  • Location: Largo do Palácio, Queluz, Portugal
  • Open everyday, except main public holidays, from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. my experience: during luchtime (12:00 – 14:00) there are not many visitors
  • Palace and Gardens 5 €, Gardens 3.5 € (over 65 yrs.) 10 € adult. More info
  • Train: Lisbon-Sintra line, get off at Queluz/Belas (ca. 1 km walk to the Palace, easy to find)

National Palace in Queluz Lisbon district

More….

Lovely Portuguese ceramics at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, symbols of Portugal & ‘love’ swallow

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owner makes me feel like buying a lot..  !  🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon ceramic shop Jan. 2017 & Loes Broere

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with patio in Lisbon  😉  (short term rentals).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube (in historical area Alfama)

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00
Thursdays and Fridays: open from 11:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Authentiek 3 slpk. appartement 100 m2 hartje Lissabon: heerlijke patio, tot 6 pers. Smart TV & BBQ

Prima uitgangspunt om Lissabon te ontdekken, ook voor senioren, hartje stad. Direct van eigenaar, verhuur sinds 2006. Heerlijke- en rustige privé patio (30 m2). Informeer naar aanbiedingen.  € 60-70 per nacht met 2 personen. vanaf 3 nachten.

Prive patio (ommuurd en rustig)  & vrienden Rob en Felipe

60– 70 per nacht met 2 persMet 4-6 pers. € 100/120 p.n. Bij 5 of meer nachten 10 % korting. Kinderkorting. Hartje stad, nabij metro vanaf het vliegveld en startpunt trammetje 28Patio (rustig, 30 m2) met 2 BBQ’s waar gerookt kan worden. Facebook

BESCHIKBAARHEIDS kalender

Straat: Google (foto is van de straat om de hoek ).  PortugalioMouraria, Rua do Terreirinho Lissabon  

Mouraria appartement Lissabon juni 2016: rustig prive terras (30 m2)

Zon op de rustige patio (30 m2) van begin maart tot eind september. 

Reserveren of meer info (vanaf 3 nachten, geen aparte kamers te huur)mail naar Julie Kruijs thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  , tel. 0653941845 (ook WhatsApp). Skype: juliekr1956.

Vlakbij het prachtige plein Intendente  . Lucky TV: Willy & Max in Lissabon 😉 😉 

Mouraria appartement Lissabon oktober 2017: kamer

Aankomsttijd: 15:00, vertrektijd 11:00.  In gezamenlijk overleg is flexibiliteit mogelijk. Na 23:00 uur inchecken: 25 euro

Fado zangeres Mariza

Zangeres Mariza groeide op in deze wijk YouTube

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon kamer en suite aan de straatkant

Thelisbonconnection:

mijn blog over Lissabon (nuttige- maar ook heel veel aangename info over de stad en omgeving).

  Casa rosa Mouraira Nov 15 2

Appartement Mouraria oktober 2015 na werkzaamheden: nieuw dak en – façade, casa rosa 🙂

Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een 900 jaar oude volkswijk.

mouraria-apartement-lissabon-juli-zonnig-terras-bbq

Appartement Mouraria in juli: zonnige patio (30 m2) en 2 BBQ’s

120 jaar oud appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon, 2e etage (ca. 110 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik WiFi en satelliet TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Uitstekende stoelen en bedden.

 

Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er bij vlagen verkeer door de nauwe straatjes .

Taxi

Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Ophalen met naambord is te regelen: € 20. Het appartement is makkelijk per metro te bereiken (metro, halte plein Martim Moniz).

Appartement Mouraria : zonnige en rustige patio  (30 m2)

Startpunt trammetje 28,  taxistandplaats en bussen bij plein Martim Moniz is 3 min. lopen.

Appartement Mouraria Lissabon: rustige privé patio (30 m2) met BBQ gedeelte, juni 2017

Castelo de São Jorge ligt op loop afstand.

Appartement Mouraria in historische wijk in Lissabon & keuken, januari 2017

Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica zijn makkelijk bereikbaar.

De legendarische 16e-eeuwse uitgaanswijk Bairro Alto is ca. 15 min. lopen.

Lisbon Mouraria area seen from Costa do Castelo

Mouraria, historische wijk in Lissabon

Historische wijken worden langzamerhand gerestaureerd, ook Mouraria, dat haar naam dankt aan vroegere bezetters, de Moren (Os Mouros).

Mouraria restaurant Jose Maria lunch Pedro Rita

Pedro Rita (voetbaljournalist, woont in de buurt) overhandigt de sleutels bij aankomst in Lissabon

Het straatje ligt dichtbij twee centrale- en monumentale pleinen Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio in de volksmond) , Praca da Figueira en plein Martim Moniz

Plein Martim Moniz YouTube, lekker eten, live muziek en meer!

Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de  ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een oude multiculturele (volks)wijk en toch typisch Portugees, met fado restaurantjes.

room-mouraria-apartment-nov-2016

Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer november 2016

In de buurt: bakkers met heerlijke verschillende soorten verse broodjes) en onweerstaanbaar lekkere Portugese gebakjes, zoals bijvoorbeeld het beroemde roomtaartje Pastel de Nata: een caloriebom  🙂

Appartement in oude ooit Moorse wijk Mouraria, Lissabon: woonkamer december  2017

Restaurantjes in de buurt

De supermarkt is 10 min. lopen vanaf het appartement, er zijn veel kleine winkeltjes in de buurt en typisch Portugese restaurantjes (ca. 9 euro p.p.). Het is veelal goedkoper om uit eten te gaan dan om zelf te koken.

Restaurant Rua do Terreirinho 58 José Maria and Laurinda

In het straatje: Restaurantje Jose-Marie en zijn vrouw Laurinda Mouraria

Klimaat & kleding

Het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ‘s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer. .

Mouraria apartment Paula cleaning garden

Mouraria apartement Lissabon: Paula Ferreira verzorgt de (uitstekende) schoonmaak

Tickets: : Ryan Air (vanaf Eindhoven, binnenkort ook vanaf Schiphol) TAP (Portugese luchtvaartmaatschappij),  Transavia.nl,   Easyjet Lissabon,  KLM, Vueling (tip). Route sneltrein door Portugal: Alfa Pendular (online ticket reserveren  vanaf 30 dagen vooraf is mogelijk).

appartementLissabon Foto Emil Roes

Slaapkamer 1 appartement Mouraria Lissabon. Foto: Emil Roes

Indeling appartement : (woonkamer, 3 slaapkamers met ramen, badkamer, keuken & patio, 30 m2)

  • woonkamer met  2-zits comfortabele (slaap)bank en grote antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel met 4  stoelen (Linum, ook geschikt voor terras)  en een gemakkelijke extra stoel (Linum). Originele balkenvloer in alle kamers. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas aan de straatkant. Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 81 cm LCD TV, radio, CD-speler, WiFi-aansluiting;
  • 3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat):
  • slaapkamer met 2 een-persoons (boxspring, 90×200) bedden, aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast en een gemakkelijke stoel. Frans balkonnetje, PVC- ramen met geluidsisolerend dubbel glas;
  • tweede rustig gelegen slaapkamer (met raam, uitzicht op de tuin van de buren) en een 2-persoons bed (210×180), antieke linnenkast;
  • derde rustige slaapkamer (met raam naar de patio) en comfortabele uitschuifbare bedbank voor 2 personen (90×200);
  • Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr. en babybadje;
  • badkamer met douche, ligbad en toilet. Gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid handdoeken van goede kwaliteit (geen strandlakens). Haardroger;
  • donsdekbedden en luxueus bedlinnen (Essenza);
  • keuken met tafel en 2 stoelen, 2 koelkasten, magnetron, 4-pits electrische kookplaat, oven, goede pannen, waterkoker, koffie/Nespresso apparaat, citruspers, (wijn)glazen, borden, bestek, keukenlinnen etc.;
  • zonnige (van half maart tot eind september) en rustige prive patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 2 comfortabele stoelen, 3 bamboe stoeltjes en een zonne/slaap stoel. Comfortabele Linux stoelen uit kamer en slaapkamer kunnen ook buiten gebruikt worden. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2 BBQs  en 2 muurparasols;
  • de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Mobiel airco apparaat. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden via Heatwafer ecopanelen in iedere kamer.

Appartement Mouraria historisch Lissabon: rustige patio (30 m2)

Tarieven 2018
Mei t/m september, feestdagen en vakantieperiodes:
10 % korting bij een boeking van 5 nachten of meer; bij een boeking van 10 dagen of langer: 15 %.
70 € per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen 100, 5/6 pers. 120/130 .
 =
Oktober t/m april (m.u.v. feestdagen en vakantieperiodes):
 60-70 euro per nacht met 2 personen, 90 met drie personen, bij 4 personen 100, 5/6 personen 110.
10 % korting bij een boeking van 5 nachten of meer; bij een boeking van 10 dagen of langer: 15 % . 
 –
Informeer naar aanbiedingen of langere periodes. Kinderkorting in overleg. Kinderen 0-4 jaar gratis. Chicco reis babybed en badje is gratis beschikbaar.
 –
Alles inbegrepen, excl. schoonmaak 40 euro. De bedden zijn opgemaakt bij aankomst. Mooi bedlinnen (Essenza), ruime voorraad handdoeken (geen grote strandlakens).
 –
 Historische buurt Mouraria in Lissabon
de buurvrouwen (as vizinhas). 
Apartment Mouraria Lisbon bathroom 1
Appartement in Mouraria Lissabon: badkamer met wasmachine en droger
WiFi internet (wel eigen laptop(s) meenemen) en satelliet TV met vele kanalen, o.a. Nederlandse en Belgische zenders.
Reservering (20 % aanbetaling) d.m.v. huurcontract incl. coulante annuleringsvoorwaarden.
 –
November, december (m.u.v. de Kerstperiode ),  januari en februari: prijs op aanvraag (soms ook langere periodes mogelijk). 
Prima verwarming via Heatwafer panelen in alle kamers € 25 – 50 per boeking.
Tram 28 Square Martim Moniz Mouraria Lisbon 2
5 min. lopen vanaf het appartement: startpunt trammetje 28 0p plein Martim Moniz
Startpunt legendarische gele tram 28: 5 minuten lopen vanaf het appartement
Een ‘must do’ Lissabon attractie: het legendarische trammetje 28, startpunt is vlakbij het appartement. Een ideale- en goedkope manier om de historische wijken van Lissabon te zien en de ‘miradouros’ (mooie uitkijkpunten) over de rivier De Taag.
 
Appartement Mouraria Lissabon, 2e rustige slaapkamer, met raam naar de tuin van de buren
Bij aankomst in het appartement staat een lekkere fles Portugese wijn in de ijskast. Zeer goed verzorgde schoonmaak, opgemaakte bedden bij aankomst.
Mouraria 3 bedroom apartment Lisbon patio March 2016
3- slaapkamer appartement Mouraria Lisbon: geurende jasmijn op de pátio (30 m2) maart 2016
De zwaluw (gekregen van Sander en Marcel 🙂 ) is een Portugees symbool dat staat voor liefde en geluk: gitzwarte zwaluwen (andorinhas) sieren menig Portugees huis   meer

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisbon’: tasty croissants, Portuguese vintage decor & a ceramic penis

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ is responsible for the delicious smell 🙂 wafting through the street Rua da Madelena in Lisbon..

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena croissants

Bakery (padaria)/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : delicious handmade rustic bread and croissants

‘Fábrica Lisboa’  has its own production, which means that  croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena home made bread

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Funny Portuguese vintage decoration

When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !

Fabrica cafe Lisboa Rua da Madalena croissant almond

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)

Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.

Croissants ‘old nunnery style’ 

There«s more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden… 🙂  to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).

My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.

This bakery is located about 10 min. walk from my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 lovely patio (short term rentals)

Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena Margriet Jan 16

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75

Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class

The cartoon character Zé Povinho was created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English),  ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.

Fabrica Lisboa bakery cafe Rua da Madalena ZE POVINHO

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’  & Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people

Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha

Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. Where to find in Lisbon:  More…

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena wall with vintage and penis

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Wifi cornervintage decoration

Phallus ceramics, a Portuguese tradition

Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉  Penis-shaped ceramics

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Penis-shaped ceramics are for sale in Portugal in all shapes and sizes: f.i. mugs, cups, and plates, or decorative pieces.

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena 121 street Lisbon

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

‘Fábrica Lisboa’
Rua da Madalena 121 (Baixa) Lisbon, Portugal
Free WiFi.  Facebook
Open from 08:00 – 20:00; closed on Monday
Weekend: 09:00 – 19:00.

Movie (impressions) on VIMEO

 

Ginja liqueur Lisbon: tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ & spontaneous fado music

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite:‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with friends Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and first fado singer of Lisbon
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street nextdoor fado house
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Lisbon bar ANOS 60 Festas populares Santo Antonio night June 12 15
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Mouraria Lisbon in June & June 12,

Historic square ‘Largo do Carmo’ Lisbon: gothic ruins, Eurovision Song Contest 1974 & bloodless military coup

Wonderful Largo do Carmo  is one of my favorite squares in Lisbon: beautiful trees, historical buildings, fascinating church ruins, the extraordinary Santa Justa elevator and amazing city views!

Largo do Carmo Lisbon, September 2017

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

Lisbon Largo do Carmo1

Largo do Carmo, springtime 2014

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in the historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio,

10 minutes walk from this wonderful square

Lisbon square Largo do Carmo kiosk 2

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo wikipedia jacarandas

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

Largo do Carmo Military Police Station

Largo do Carmo Lisbon

Portugal’s history & Carnation Revolution

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution.

On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

25-abril Carnation Revolution 1974 Lisbon

Largo do Carmo Lisbon April 25 1974

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos)

was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (“And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup.

Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started.

More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum 1

Largo do Carmo Lisbon
Here you can also find an entrance to the famous Archeological Museum, the gothic ruins of the 14th century Igreja (church) Convento do Carmo).
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa2
Ruins of the Convento do Carmo & horrible earthquake in 1755
Open from Monday- Saturday 10h – 18h, cheap entrance. The construction of this monument started in 1389 by order of Nuno Álvares Pereira. The church was destroyed the first of November of 1755 by the horrible and well known earthquake. A lot of people died.
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Lisbon Largo do Carmo church museum Santa Justa3
 Largo do Carmo Lisbon: amazing view over Lisbon
 How to get there? How to avoid ticket queues !
The famous tourist attraction ‘Santa Justa elevator’ (Elevador de Santa Justa video), Rua do Santa Gusta, built around 1900 to connect the Baixa and Chiado districts (around 32 m high), can bring you to the Carmo Square.  
As an alternative to the elevator (and to avoid the ticket office queues  – which can be horrendous) – I prefer to walk via Rua Garrett, and turn right into Calçada do Sacramento, it’s not too steep!
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Santa Justa lift view from roof terrace warehouse Pollux
Beautiful city view of Lisbon and Santa Justa Lift
From the roof terrace of Pollux, a huge warehouse, Rua dos Fanqueiros 276. There’s a pleasant roof terrace & bar/cafe.

Unique bar ‘Pensão Amor’ (brothel) Lisbon: former red light district, sailors, pink street & pole dance

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon, located near the river Tagus, was for decades known as a street in the city’s red light district with bars named after European capitals (like Copenhagen,  Oslo or Roterdão (Rotterdam) and Jamaica to attract the sailors who stepped off their boats here.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

Former red light district

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love 😉

Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artist Mario Belem

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

Wonderful décor

The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Pole dance & YouTube: Marina mey

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Area Cais do Sodré  

Nowadays this area is a hip and trendy region in Lisbon.

Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close.

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy pink street in Lisbon

More remarkable bars in this street:

bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora (Old Ladies Bar).

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho. YouTube

Pensão Amor Art & culture, Bars | Cocktails  € 8.00, beer € 3. Open:  every day.  More : Facebook

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

YouTube

More about the metamorphosis of this area: Portugaldailyview & video

Looking for a short-term apartment in Lisbon? My  100 m2 3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria with 30 m lovely private patio 🙂

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon : drawing stairs to the bar

Exotic Palace garden Lisbon ‘Tapada das Necessidades’: free access, juicy gossip & pink birthday cake

Exotic garden Tapada das Necessidades in Lisbon is a guarded secret even the most Lisboetas don’t know about. Beautiful grounds and palace peeling pink paint, with an incredible cactus garden and a setting for a picnic you usually only see in films. Since a few years it’s open to the public/tourists and it’s free!

Tapada das Necessidades garden Lisbon: birthday picnic party June 2012

Between the famous Prazeres cemetery (also really worth a visit!) and the river Tagus (Tejo) you can find this large (about 10 ha) exotical park, including a wonderful picnic area, a network of walkways, historical buildings, a garden and lakes. The grounds of the palace contain a remarkable collection of exotic plants known as “Tapada das Necessidades”.

Tapada das Necessidades Lisbon: Lilja & the candy-pink birthday cake, June 2012

Surprise birthday picnic & special birthday cake

Our lovely friend Lilja (70) from England, born in Iceland, was invited for a surprise birthday picnic. This beautiful lady likes shopping, like handbags, hats and shoes, and she loves to try on every pair of shoes before deciding whether to buy anything at all 😉  . That’s why this special birthday cake: a pink ‘hat’ decorated with elegant ladies shoes and a small handbag on top.

Exotic garden ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ Lisbon: prime location for a picnic or a lazy afternoon

The Palace (Palácio) das Necessidades was built in the 18th century in gratitude for prayers answered by Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of the Needs, a title dedicated to the Virgin Mary), whose first devotional chapel stood on this site.

Nowadays this palace is a Portuguese National Monument

Garden ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ Lisbon: walk through the immense, amazing garden

The ‘Tapada das Necessidades’ has been the stage for some important events in Portuguese history, as exemplified in the famous case of the box that king Dom Pedro V installed at the door, in wich everyone could leave their messages and complaints to the sovereign.

From 1910, the palace remained unoccupied for almost 40 years. In around 1950 it became the headquarters of the Portuguese Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Garden Tapada das Necessidades Lisbon: Rob and Felipe, June 2012

Sanitairy facilities & trees

It is really wonderful to walk in this garden, you have the feeling that it’s all yours, because there are almost no other people around… In the park are no sanitairy facilities, the guardians at the entrance cried: ” enough trees here”!…. 😉  😉

There are three lakes surrounded by exotic vegetation, sculptures, a waterfall, a fountain and a pool. Really beautiful but faded elegance….

“Hello? Thank you! I’m currently in Lisbon.. Yes! Celebrating my 70th birthday”

Small pink-washed cottages & gossip

Besides: officially the few small pink-washed cottages in this park were once the little prince’s playhouses. But there are rumors that young women lived in those little pink houses, being the mistresses of the king …  😉

One of the little pink-painted houses in the garden: playhouse for the little prince?

The abandoned buildings create a mysterious atmosphere…..and inside there’ s a lot of trash…….   More pictures of this park, the historical buildings and the exotic plants and flowers: Beautiful garden pictures getportugal.com

Tapada das Necessidades garden Lisbon: entrance/exit near the Palace

How to get there? Take the 28 tram to Prazeres. The main entrance of the park Tapada das Necessidades is through the Largo das Necessidades. This park is open to the public every day of the week – including Saturdays and Sundays, the entrance is guarded but entry is free.

The Palace (Palácio) das Necessidades, June 2012

Open: wintertime 8h – 18h (from Monday u/i Friday), from 10h – 18h (Saturday and Sunday). Summertine 8h – 19h (from Monday u/i Friday), from 10h – 19h (Saturday/Sunday)

Restaurant cafe Bruta Flor Lisbon: creative food, warm staff, live music & lovely place

Great selection of creative- and vegetarian meals in a lovely old little place! Cafe/restaurant Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) is located in Mouraria, a bit tucked away in the heart of the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant Bruta Flor, historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Saturday night February 2017

Nowadays Largo da Severaa in historic area Mouraria is a beautiful little square, named after Maria Severa, considered to be the first fado singer in Portugal.

Once a typography workplace, now it’s been transformed into a lovely small cafe/restaurant.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor (Wild Flower) area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017

Historical area Mouraria & 900 years of history

Historical area Mouraria exists more than 900 years, together with Alfama it is Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value. The former Moorish quarter is a muddle of very narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & healthy creative dishes

Great selection of vegetarian dishes

We ordered a vegetarian meal: tomato couscous (yummy! € 8,50) and Thai chicken (€ 8,75), a bottle of fantastic biological wine Fossil (€ 13,00), small bottle of water (€ 1,30), olives (€ 1,00), and chocolate cake ice cream (€ 3,50).

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & friend Rob Plews, February 2017

There’s a variety of (bio) Portuguese wines available, my favorite: Fossil 🙂 bottle € 13.

There are also nights of live music: this night we really enjoyed Vitória.

Restaurant Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & Vitória  (YouTube)

Owners restaurant Bruta Flor Paula, Ruth & Ugo: world citizens

Owner Paula Froes: ‘We are a family of three, who decided to step up and do something for ourselves. All of us have their own professions but I am the only one who works on at least one of mine. None of us was born in Portugal. I come from Mozambique, Ugo and Ruth from England. We have also lived in Brazil. We are somehow a trio of world citizens’.

Restaurant Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon February 2017: owners Paula, Ruth & Ugo

Music, Art & people 

Owner Paula: “As you come into our place you will probably feel the influences of our travels, both in the decoration, the food, the exhibitions, workshops and live music. The world is made of different people and that makes it exciting. There are many pleasures in life, amongst them eating, drinking, enjoying music, art and people”.

On the wall, a portrait of a French painter Séraphine Louis

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon February 2017 & owner Ugo

Home made cakes

Bruta Flor is divided into 2 spaces: there’s a small and cozy cafe right next to the restaurant. From morning to evening there’s coffee and delicious cake (slice € 2.50, home made of course!), and for breakfast and for lunch a variety of healthy ideas to choose from (€ 3.50 – € 7.00).

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon, dinner March 2017

Tábua de Enchidos (Meat Board) € 11.50, Tábua Vega with guacamole , black beans, humus, raw vegetables, chips, wrap and toast € 9.00, queijo € 5,50 (1/2 board of cheese variety), glass of red wine € 2.80, coffee € 0.80.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon & dinner with friends Loek Polack and Ans de Graaf

Bruta Flor: a mix of good food, comfort & adventure

Owner Paula: “Providing opportunities for people to meet one another, share their visions, arts, over a delicious meal. Life is not only about gathering, sometimes we just want to be by ourselves and have a good reading in a quiet environment. We would like to think this is also possible at our café. Comfort and adventure. Can we mix them? We believe we can. A flavour, a sound, a colour … there are many ways of tasting life”.

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor Mouraria Lisbon, wall drawing: beautiful man & wild flowers 🙂

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor        Music: Caetano Veloso – O Quereres – Bruta Flor
Opening hours (closed Monday/Tuesday)  table booking recommended
15:00 – 23:00 (Wednesday – Thursday)
15:00 – 24:00 (Friday)
11:00 – 24:00 (Saturday) There are also nights of live music and painting exhibitions.
11:00 – 23:00 (Sunday)
Happy hours: 18:30 – 20:00. Phone: (00351) 915498119.  Facebook

 

Restaurant/cafe Bruta Flor area Mouraria Lisbon & view Largo da Severa Lisbon

Short-term rental in this area: my apartment (100 m2, 3 bedrooms), lovely private & quiet patio

Looking for an authentic apartment in this area? More info about my apartment in Mouraria & availability calendar

Lisbon: how to recognize cheap Portuguese restaurants & tiny place José Maria & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south. The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured.

Lisbon cheap restaurant Jose Mouraria

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice 7.50 euro (fried cod): delicious!

Tiny place, good food! Historical area in Mouraria, Lisbon.  Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58: José Maria & his wife Laurinda: good & cheap traditional Portuguese food. Closed on Sunday.

Restaurant Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho Laurinda & Jose Marie March 15

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 Lisbon

 Owners Laurinda, Jose Marie & sr. Julio (l), April 2015

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

dutch ladies 4 feb Jose Marie lunch

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

mouraria-jose-marie-erna-deegens-september-2016

September 2016: Erna and Tonny Deegens & friends Marijn and Anneke in Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Good & cheap typical Portuguese food

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda delicious bitoque

For me, Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon 🙂  🙂

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca.7 euro).

Restaurant Jose Marie Santo Antonio 3 beautiful girls

Restaurant José Marie June 2015: Santo Antonio week: Stephanie, Sophia and Clara

Looking for a nice apartment in this old neighborhood? (6 persons can sleep comfortably)

Lisbon Mouraria apartment 3 bedrooms patio 30 m2

My apartment in this area (100 m2), 3 bedrooms & lovely patio (30 m2)

Short time rental3 bedroom holiday apartment with sunny patio in this area

Laurinda Restaurant Mouraria fesh fish

Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

Eating & drinking Portugal displays and football

Football

There’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Unrequested starter dishes:

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!). Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Restaurant Carmar Lisbon Espetada near Martim Moniz

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €, restaurant Carmar Lisbon

Restaurant Carmar: good & cheap Portuguese food: espetada € 6.90, glass of wine € 0.90, small bottle of water € 0.75, café € 0.70.

Rua Arco Marques do Alegrete 1-5 (close to starting point electrical tram 28, square Martim Moniz)

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Carne de porco à Alentejana Lisbon Mouraria cheap restaurants

Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic, meia dose, half portion)

This is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast.

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto: very good and cheap with a traditional Portuguese menu

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 16 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria Lisbon Street tiny restaurant Jose Marie & Laurinda nov 14

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point legendary yellow tram 28

Street view from tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction!

Mouraria Lisbon restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda jan 16

January 2016

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginhain area Mouraria

Rua do Terreirinh0 58 Lisbon