How to recognize cheap Portuguese restaurants in Lisbon & tiny restaurant José Maria & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south. The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured.

Lisbon cheap restaurant Jose Mouraria

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice 7.50 euro (fried cod): delicious!

Historical area in Mouraria, Lisbon. Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58: José Maria & his wife Laurinda: good & cheap traditional Portuguese food. Closed on Sunday

Restaurant Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho Laurinda & Jose Marie March 15

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 Lisbon

 Owners Laurinda, Jose Marie & sr. Julio (l), April 2015

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

dutch ladies 4 feb Jose Marie lunch

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

mouraria-jose-marie-erna-deegens-september-2016

September 2016: Erna and Tonny Deegens & friends Marijn and Anneke in Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Good & cheap typical Portuguese food

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda delicious bitoque

For me, Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon 🙂  🙂

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca.7 euro).

Restaurant Jose Marie Santo Antonio 3 beautiful girls

Restaurant José Marie June 2015: Santo Antonio week: Stephanie, Sophia and Clara

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Lisbon Mouraria apartment 3 bedrooms patio 30 m2

My apartment in this area (100 m2), 3 bedrooms & lovely patio (30 m2)

Short time rental3 bedroom holiday apartment with sunny patio in this area

Laurinda Restaurant Mouraria fesh fish

Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

Eating & drinking Portugal displays and football

Football

There’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Unrequested starter dishes:

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!). Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Restaurant Carmar Lisbon Espetada near Martim Moniz

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €, restaurant Carmar Lisbon

Restaurant Carmar: good & cheap Portuguese food: espetada € 6.90, glass of wine € 0.90, small bottle of water € 0.75, café € 0.70.

Rua Arco Marques do Alegrete 1-5 (close to starting point electrical tram 28, square Martim Moniz)

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Carne de porco à Alentejana Lisbon Mouraria cheap restaurants

Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic, meia dose, half portion)

This is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast.

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto: very good and cheap with a traditional Portuguese menu

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 16 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria Lisbon Street tiny restaurant Jose Marie & Laurinda nov 14

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point legendary yellow tram 28

Street view from tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction!

Mouraria Lisbon restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda jan 16

January 2016

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginhain area Mouraria

Rua do Terreirinh0 58 Lisbon

Trendy Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon: excellent quality steak or fish & chips à la Marilyn Monroe

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ in Lisbon pays tribute to the Portuguese steak sandwich, the prego, also a traditional snack in seafood restaurants. Recommendable!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & wonderful designed wall

Portuguese way of life & artist Gonçalo Mar

The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish

It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.

YouTube: traditional bread from the isle of Madeira , bolo do caco, very tasty!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017: Pedro & Dina

Boeuf de Wagyu (Japanese super-beef) & Marilyn Monroe potatoe chips

2 croquetes 3.80 €, 1 Rissól de Camarão (shrimp) 1.90 €, Pavé (filet) Yuppie Pão 9.50 €, Prato Pavé de boeuf de Wagyu (dish with vegetables and ‘Marilyn Monroe’ potatoe chips) 11.50 €, 2 fried sweet potatoes (batata doce) 3.00 €, 2 glasses of red wine (O Tinto d’ O Prego) 7.00 €.

Why potato chips (wavy, extremely thin and crispy , as indicated on the menu card) à la Mariliyn Monroe? I assume her famous wavy dress? and maybe Marilyn’s ‘potato sack’ dress?  😉

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??

O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego .. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉  

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Portuguese history & Casas de Pasto (pasture house) 

The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.

Old Casa de Pasto ‘pasture house’ in Portugal – around 1920 … Source: Kuentro blogspot

Lisbon people (Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.

With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.

Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356. 
facebook Open: every day from 12:00 tot 24:00
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Bacalhau (codfish, a must-try!), Portugal’s dried, faithful friend & luxury shop Manteigaria Silva Lisbon

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Fish bacalhau codfish Manteigaria Silva

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

365 different ways to prepare codfish

When you stay in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

bacalhau-shop1.jpg

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacalhau traditional dish in Portugal

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish.

Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.

History

For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also. Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations. It’s a staple of the Portuguese diet and you’ll find it prepared in all Portuguese homes and (cheap) restaurants.

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Bacalhau a braz

Very popular: ‘bacalhau à brás’, made from thin strips of cod mixed with onions, and thin strips of potatoes bound by eggs.

Codfish Gomes de sa

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish pastry), croquetes.

A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine or beer on tap(imperial)!

Old Market Mercado da Ribeira (River) Lisbon: from fresh fish to funeral flowers & 750 seats Food Hall top gastronomical area

Near the Cais do Sodre train station, on the other side of the road, you will see the beautiful building of the Mercado da Ribeira (market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome. Worth a visit!

Mercado da Ribeira

Market Mercado da Ribeira, near the river Tejo, Lisbon

Market: open daily 05:00 – 14:00. Closed on Sundays. Address: Avenida 24 de Julho Lisbon.

Same building:  ‘Time Out’ Food Hall/ Gastronomical area near the market hall
Opened May 18 2014.
Opening hours: Sunday to Wednesday 10am to midnight; Thursday to Saturday 10am to 2pm

Mercado Da Ribeira overview market

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon

The cities biggest open food market is selling everything: from inky octopus and fresh seafood to fabulous fruit, from real Portugese products like ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body…..   :-(

Mercado da Ribeiro Lisbon funeral flowers

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: funeral flowers

This is Lisbon’s cheapest market. The seafood forms a large part of the Portuguese cuisine with 1001 ways to cook it. Bacalhau is the Portuguese name for cod, a very popular fish, so much that they have a different bacalhau recipe for each day of the year!

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon: every day fresh fish

There really is something to find for everyone  :-(

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Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon June 2014 Pig

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon

In 2007 the market celebrated a 125 year of existence: beautiful pictures are on the walls from fish sellers (varinas) of the Ribeira Market from a hundred years ago, when the fishermen moored their ship here to sell the fresh fish.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Varinas

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish seller (varina, year: 1900)

On Sunday mornings there is a Collectors fair from 09:00-14:00, like coins and stamps. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy ‘cultural’ centre. It sells locally produced items such as port and honey, and handicrafts.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out gastronomical area Gal

Next to the food market: FOOD HALL: gastronomical area, representing the best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon & 750 seats!

The area gathers about 30 spaces, providing around 750 seats. Where you used to go only for fresh fruit and vegetables, now you have some of the best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon represented. The idea is simple: you grab the food and drinks from one or several restaurants of your choice (not necessarily the same as your family and friends), and go sit in the food court where you’ll be able to interact with everyone there.

Mercado da Ribeira (River Market) Lisbon: Time Out magazine food pavilion

Traditional Portuguese sandwiches & nails

Did you ever try a traditional Portuguese sandwich like the Prego? or a Bifana (pork)?  a Prego is the most popular and incredible garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)   with mustard or piri-piri)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Food Hall: Portuguese petiscos (tapas)

Petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….  ). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. ;-)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015 atum

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon & petiscos (tapas)

Cozinha da Felicidade (petiscos a portuguesa):

Atum com batata doce (tuna and sweet potatoes) 9.50 euro, agua sem gas (water) 1.50 euro

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out restaurant terrace

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon restaurant: fresh seafood

Restaurants and terraces outside the market

Also new are the restaurants outside the old market: we enjoyed fresh Atlantic seafood and a delicious Portuguese wine.

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon new 2014 restaurants terrace

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: restaurants with terraces

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon & nightlife

Located just behind the famous market near the river Tagus, this street was for decades known as a street in Lisbons red light district with bars named after northern European capitals (like Copenhagen, Oslo or Roterdão , Rotterdam) to attract their sailors who stepped off their boats here.  Nowadays this area is very trendy

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Bar/Cafe ‘Sol e Pesca’ Cais do Sodré Lisbon: tin canned fish decoration, Muxama & antique fishing memorabilia

Portugal is famous for the beautiful coloured tin cans of tuna, squid and sardines from the brands Pinhais, Tricana or Ramirez. Tin cans serve as wall decoration in cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca ” (Sun and Fishing), but are also intended for consumption. A great idea!

Cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca“, Lisbon decorated with lovely coloured fish tin cans

Former old shop

This bar used to be an old shop with fishing equipment and that past now inspires the décor (like rods and hooks). Now the shop is also decorated with hundreds of colorful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish.

Cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca“, Lisbon

“Sol e Pesca also inspires what is served (or sold to be enjoyed at home), because in addition to the drinks (beer and local wines) it offers cans of a variety of fish that, if you like it, can be accompanied by bread and wine.

Mauro Fialho, Cafe/bar “Sol e Pesca“, Lisbon

Nowadays the Cais do Sodré area in Lisbon is a trendy place to go after  the bars in the Bairro Alto close their doors. You’ll find here some clubs like Roterdão, and Musicbox. In July 2010 “Sol e Pesca” opened its doors.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’  (‘love’ hotel)  is next door (once a cheap pension for prostitutes)

Cafe` Sol e Pesca`Lisbon: Catarina Rebelo Lucas is preparing the mise en place

Catarina: ” In this area (Cais do Sodré) near the river Tagus there are a lot of shops for fishermen. This typical Portuguese old store closed 20 years ago and all the old stuff associated with fish is still there…

The new owner, sr. Henrique Vaz Pato (pato means duck in Portuguese)   😉  😉 bought the shop and opened cafe ‘Sol e Pesca’ (Sun and Fishing) in July 2010″.

Muxama, a delicacy typical of the south region of the Iberian Peninsula, consisting of filleted salt-cured tuna.

The Arabs developed this salt curing technique and the term muxama comes from the Arab word musama which means “dry”. However, Phoenicians and Romans also used a similar process to preserve the fishes caught until the return of the fishing boats ashore. Nowadays, in Portugal muxama is produced in the Algarve region, following a technique used for more than 1000 years almost unchanged. More……

Delicious! Muxama, salad, sardines, olives, bread, white wine, a small bottle of water: 22 euro

Bar/cafe Sol e Pesca (Sun and Fishing),  Rua Nova de Carvalho 14, Lisbon

Hours: Monday to Friday from 18:00 to 02h00, Saturday from 18.00 to 04h00, closed on Sunday

MINERVA – Portuguese sardines

Minerva is a well-known Portuguese canned fish brand

Lisbon, Cais do Sodré , the new hotspot, December 2011

Nowadays the Cais do Sodré area in Lisbon is a trendy place to go after bars in the nearby Bairro Alto area close their doors

 

Famous Lisbon Cannery store ‘Conserveira de Lisboa’: hundreds of colourful tins of Portugal’s favorite fish & nostalgic power

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store) has been covered in many many newspapers, tv-programs and on the internet, never paid for any promotion but is listed by many touristic guides. Why? Because this is a wonderful preserved-fish store with hundreds of colorful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish. It’s been open for 80 years and well worth a visit, even if you don’t like fish!

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria de Jesus Silva

Maria de Jesus Silva, Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

The shop opened in 1930 under the name ‘Mercearia do Minho’and changed it’s name to Conserveira de Lisboa in 1942. In the beginning days the company sold all kinds of alimentation, concentrating on canned foods.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiroa Conserveira de Lisboa canned fish shop Luís Vieira

Luís Vieira,Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In 1942 the company applied for the registration of the first two brands of conserves: TRICANA and PRATA DO MAR. Tricana was registered in 1948 and Prata do Mar in 1956.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa5

Macquerel (filetes de cavala), tummy (atum), squid (polvo) and cod (bacalhau).

During the second world war the industry of conserved fish products developed rapidly and it helped the company to evolve quickly, reaching it’s peak with the colonial war in ’74. After this period, the conserves market shrinked steadily, frozen food became a more common way of conservation.

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Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Confronted with this perspective of a further declining market, the Conserveira chose to remain operating on this niche market and offer only quality products. This way the shop also survived the aggressive low prices by the supermarkets.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Manuela Preira

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Two nice ladies in the shop are wrapping the various preserves: Manuela Pereira….

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Conserveira de Lisboa Maria Manuela Neves

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

…..and Maria Manuela Henriques Nunes

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa no plastic bags

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

I bought 4 cans: 2 fillets macquerel (€ 4,54) and 2 tummy fillets (€ 3,63). Happily no plastic bags! If you like you can write a nice note in the guest book.

Lisbon Conserveira de Lisboa guestbook

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

In June 2004 Armando Jose Cabral Ferreira and Regina Maria da Silva Monteiro Baptista Cabral Ferreira became the owners of the shop.

Famous cannery shop Conserveira de Lisboa street

Conserveira de Lisboa, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34 (the store’s website).

E-mail address: info@conserveiradelisboa.pt

Telephone: (351) 218 871 058. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros means ‘street of the cod fish sellers’……). More.about this street..

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Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery store)

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon: terraces, museum Casa dos Bicos, tourist shops, restaurants & famous Lisbon Cannery shop

Quite close to the historic Alfama neighborhood, a very nice street to walk around at Lisbon’ city center is Rua dos Bacalhoeiros (street of the cod fish sellers). The buildings that face the Tejo River look lovely, but if you take a closer look, they mostly are in a worse condition.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros near Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Walking from Praça do Comércio in the direction to Alfama, you will get to Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. The famous 28 tram (eletrico) passes here on its way to the Santa Apolonia station.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros terraces near Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

This part of the street is really beautiful. The small restaurants with a terrace outside are popular; even in wintertime when the sun is shining you can enjoy a beer or have lunch outside.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Adega do Atum near Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

My favorite terrace, just near ‘Casa dos Bicos’ is ‘Adega do Atum (tummy)’, a small restaurant with a few tables on the pavement at the front, close to the road near the Tagus river. The waiters are very friendly and not too agressive. They serve excellent traditional fish and meat meals and have the Portuguese Sagres beer on tap (imperial). Try ‘Salade de Atum’ (€ 7 ) for lunch!

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Casa dos Bicos

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon & Casa dos Bicos (House of the pointed stones)

Casa dos Bicos (House of the pointed stones).  (website) .This Palace was built in the early 16th century, a notable part of Lisbon’s heritage and one of the few examples with traces of the 15th C. architecture.

The residence was built by the Albuquerque family. From 1981 to 1982, Casa dos Bicos was the site of excavations, many archaelogical findings were unearthed (ceramic and glass pieces a.o.). The upper two floors were destroyed by the earthquake in 1755 and were only rebuilt in the 1980s. Worth a visit!

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros3 shop nr 117 Silva & Feijó

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

You will find various tourist shops in this street. Silva & Feijó, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 117/118 on the other side of Casa dos Bicos, sells a.o. wines and typical Portuguese handicrafts.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros lots of restaurants

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Lunchtime in Lisbon. This part of the street is filled with lots of restaurants, from traditional Portuguese to Chinese.

A Churrasqueira is a restaurant serving grilled meat or fish, many offering as much as you can eat: the waiters move around the restaurant with the skewers, slicing meat onto your plate. Frango de Churrasco with piri piri (a kind of salty roasted chicken spiced with hot red chili sauce) is very popular.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros restaurant espetada

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros Lisbon

Restaurant Churrasqueira Santo António.

Carlos Marcalo, Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 133, invites you to try their ‘espetada‘, a typical Portuguese dish made of large chunks of fish or beef rubbed in garlic and salt with vegetables such as onions and bell peppers.

Lisbon Rua dos Bacalhoeiros shop canned fish

Luís Vieira.

Conserveira de Lisboa (The Lisbon Cannery), nr 34. Wonderful very old preserved-fish store with hundreds of colourful tins of the Portuguese favorite fish. This shop opened 80 years ago, nothing has changed.

Lisbon Roa do Comerico shit

Rua do do Comércio ,

“The shit of today will fertilize tomorrow…” a building drawing, just around the corner of Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and Rua da Madalena. More…… 😉

Popular tourist street Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Lisbon, aggressive waiters & avoid restaurant Torremolinos

Lisbon is probably the best place in Europe to enjoy seafood. There are a couple of very popular ‘tourist restaurant’ streets,  such as Rua das Portas de Santo Antão where you will find a wide selection of options.

Lisbon Rossio near Restauradores

The lively street just behind the National Theater Doña Maria II at Largo de São Domingos, near Rossio Square and Restauradores, is a real mecca for seafood lovers, and a very popular tourist street.

Lisbon restaurants R. das Portas de Santo Antão 2

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão: rather touristy and aggressive waiters

The street name dates from the 15th C. when a gate in the former town wall stood here. There’s also some very interesting buildings to be seen. The restaurants are well positioned for people-watching, prices are not really cheap, but the quality is good. In general, this street is rather touristy and the waiters are sometimes a bit aggressive in their approach to tourists.

Shrimps and lobster window restaurant

One of the restaurant windows, with fresh lobsters and shrimps.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão , just north of Rossio, is one of the few streets in Lisbon where you’ll be approached by waiters in the street trying to entice you to eat in their restaurant.

Lisbon popular tourist street Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 11

‘Free’ starters

Be prepared: in the more expensive and touristical restaurants in Lisbon you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarão). They are not a part of the meal! You won’t pay for them if you don’t eat them, and often the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. More ……

If you don’t speak Portuguese, make sure you’ve got your dictionary handy!

restaurant-cervejeria-inhaca-rua-das-portas-de-s-antao.jpg

Restaurante Cervejaria Inhaca

Cervejaria means ‘beerhouse’, where beer is produced (or used to be produced) and where you can eat as well. There are many Cervejaria’s in Lisbon (like the well known restaurant Portugalia).

Restaurante Cervejaria INHACA

Finger licking good, but expensive

Shrimp and lobster dishes for 2 persons, about € 55, except drinks. Restaurant Inhaca, R. das Portas de Santo Antão 8.

Restaurant Torremolino Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Lisbon

Avoid Restaurant Torremolinos, Google reviews: read this!

In general: make sure you are aware of what you are being charged for. Most of the restaurants in this area are tourist traps.

A few great restaurants in this street: Casa do Alentejo (a hidden gem) and restaurant Gambrinus 

A good idea is to walk around and eat in a restaurant where there are no tourists in sight……. for seafood lovers, go to one of Lisbon’s best seafood restaurants ‘RAMIRO’, also open on Sundays (Intendente).

Cheap restaurants in Lisbon: Toma-Lá-dá-Cá near Bairro Alto, very popular & excellent food and service!

A very popular restaurant by Portuguese people is restaurant Toma-Lá-dá-Cá, a small place with traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food and service!

Lisbon cheap restaurants Toma La Da Ca street

Restaurant Toma-Lá-dá-Cá, Travessa do Sequeiro 38, in June, when all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights. June is the month of the ‘Festas dos Santos Populares’ (Feast Days of the Popular Saints).

Lisbon Bairro Alto cheap restaurants Toma La Da Ca

If you walk around in Bairro Alto, this is the place to go! The restaurant is near the miradouro (view spot) and terrace de Santa Catarina with a spectacular view across the River Tejo to the 25 de April Bridge.

Lisbon Restaurante Toma-La-Da-Ca kitchen

Price: less than 15 €. After 9pm it’s difficult to find a table. Traditional Portuguese cod and grilled hanger steak are the restaurant’s specialties.

If you are a bigger group or over the weekends it might be a problem.  A reservation is not possible,  they are always full!

Market Mercado de Arroios Lisbon: fresh fish, flowers, fruit & friendly people

If you like browsing through local markets, go to Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon!

Lisbon Shopping: Mercado do Arroios fresh food & fish market

Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon

The always very nice Portuguese people are proud to show you the fresh fish…

Lisbon Shopping: Mercado de Arroios fish

Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon

…..and take their time to make a friendly neighbourly talk.

Lisbon Shopping: Mercado de Arroios vegetables

Mercado de Arroios in Lisbon

This lively fresh produce & fishmarket is open from Monday-Saturday 07-00 till 14:00.

Lisbon shopping: Mercado de Arroios building

Mercado de Arroios, Rua Ângela Pinto, near the Arroios metro station, close to Estefania.
Selling locally sourced fish, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers.

Mercado da Ribeiro, famous market near the Tagus river