Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.

Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa  is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

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Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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It’s a great place to walk around and kids have fun here! It has small lakes, a library kiosk and a beautiful bandstand. In summer months, you may occasionally find musicians giving live concerts inside the park.

Enjoy great moments of nature in the center of a big city…

An oasis of peace and tranquility…..

Wonderful exotic trees

This magnificent garden (founded in 1852) is a must-see in Lisbon. These pictures were taken at the end of November. In summertime flowers are beautifully scattered throughout the entire garden.

The garden has everything that children seek: a well-equipped children’s playground.

Jardim da Estrela, Praça da Estrela, open daily from 07:00 – 24:00. Free entrance. Metro: Rato. Tram: 25 and 28

Dogs have fun here. There are lots of dogs in Lisbon, and most of them are quite happy..

Opposite the park: Basilica da Estrela  church , one of the most brilliant constructions of late Baroque, with already neoclassical elements

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“” Passeio o seu cão de saquinho na mão!” ‘Take your dog for a walk with a poop bag in your   hand!”

I saw this funny poster near one of my favorite places in Lisbon,  Miradouro da Graça. a splendid viewpoint offering a panoramic view of the castle and central Lisbon. The open-air cafe and its relaxing atmosphere is a favorite with young locals, especially in late afternoon. During the summer it remains open well into the night.

Home made coats… Feira da Ladra, Lisbons’ legendary flea market in wintertime (about 18 degrees C…..)

This one has very sad eyes….near the church in Rosssio, close to Palácio da Independência (Palace of Independece) and the famous small  ‘A Ginjinha’ cafe.

Rua da Costa do Castelo, walking up to the old castelo São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), located on the highest of the seven hills of the historic center of the city.

Alfama, at lunch time (almoço). The most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.   I manage to get lost every time I walk there…! It’s still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog….

One of my favourite places and of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradoura de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor. This bar and restaurant is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tejo river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people.

Picture: haiamisa

In Lisbon there are many beggars on the streets. Sadly enough some of them use animals and many tourists give money to this boy. The dog doesn’t look very happy on the street in the heat of the summer……you’ll find him ‘working’ in the city center Baixa.

Praça Dom Pedro IV  at Christmas time 2009

Portuguese Water Dog (picture: Chicago Tribune)

Obama’s daughter Malia walks the First Family’s new puppy, Bo, on the grounds of the White House.

So far, I never saw a Portuguese ‘Water Dog’ in Lisbon…… But maybe Obama bought him because these very smart dogs were often taken with sailors during  the overseas Portuguese discoveries ? 

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Restaurant Solar do Duque. Calcada do Duque  is a street made of hundreds of stairs, lined with lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants, near Largo Duque de Cadaval , a square full of open-air cafes near the beautiful Rossio Station. 

Around the Castle of St. Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge), the tiny and partially restored ancient neighborhood of Santa Cruz do Castelo , is one of the most picturesque parts of Lisbon.

Mouraria, Rua dos Cavaleiros. From here, you can walk to a beautiful viewpoint over the city, Miradouro da Graça.

Bairro Alto 

Bairro Alto. During daytime, the famous Bairro is a very quiet district, it’s really worth it to walk around: trendy shops, art galleries and fashion. At night, bars suddenly appear everywhere from behind the shutter doors.

Quite close to the historic Alfama neighborhood, a very nice street to walk around at Lisbon’ city center is Rua dos Bacalhoeiros (street of the cod fish sellers).

Alfama (more…..)

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Definitely one of the coolest bars of the city! You can get there from Rua da Costa do Castelo, the neighborhood of The Castle of St. Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge).

Sergio Curto: ‘O Terraço’ opened about two years ago, the building belongs to the government. We also serve some snacks, toast and ‘2 plates of the day’. Opening times: daily from 12:00 – 24:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 – 01:00.’  Caipirinha: € 4, Mojito € 5 , a secret recipe

Update September ‘09: ‘O Terraco’ , one of Lisbon’s beloved terrace cafés, has just closed and in a few months a new restaurant will take its place. More….

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Partying in the small street around the famous Bica funicular, near Bairro Alto , one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 13th, Lisbon turns into one big party! More….

Bica funicular Rua Loreto. Lisbon has three working street funiculars: Lavra, Gloria and Bica, which allow its citizens and visitors to move to and from its hilly districts more easily. All are operated by Carris, (including timetables and funicular’s history) the Lisbon city transport undertaking.

Five minutes walk from here is a beautiful viewpoint over the River Tagus: ‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon, which is officially called the  ‘Miradouro de Santa Catarina’ .

Just below the small Adamastor square, you will find the fantastic terraces of cafe/ bar Cafe Noobai , certainly one of the favourite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city!

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As ‘Ambassador of l’ Oreal’ you can find Aurelio a few days a week in ‘Le Salon’ working as a hair director and teacher; besides he works as a freelance hair stylist in Monte Carlo, Nice, London, and Paris. Visit Aurelio’s website

Le Salon, June 2008. Aurelio and Teresa take a break. Although Teresa is blind, she is very talented to become a good hairdresser.

After arriving in Lisbon in 2001, Aurelio worked 6 years for Facto, a trendy hairdresser’s saloon. For his interpretation of Gothic Luxury in 2006, Aurelio was winner of the International Trend Vision Award in Milan. After the Milan event he took part in various Wella Professionals fashion projects to provide his talents and as well profit from working with other top hairdressers.

Le Salon, Avenida da Liberdade 262, entree

In his leisure time Aurelio likes everything related to art (painting, theater, music)….

……and eating lots  of sardinhas (grilled sardines)…….

Favorite places: Castelo Sao Jorge in Lisbon. Beach: Meco, an amazingly huge and beautiful beach. ‘I like surfing in the weekend’. 

Map Meco beach, near Alfarim, a very popular gay beach 40 km south of Lisbon. More about Meco Beach

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The University of Lisbon Botanical Garden was designed as a scientific garden, planting began in 1873 through the initiative of two professors, the Earl of Ficalho and Andrade Corvo.

Entrance with beautiful palms: Rua Politécnica 58, Principe Real

Ticket office in the garden. Adults: € 1,50 , seniors over 65: € 0,75, children op to 6 years: free

Ficus macrophylla (moreton bay fig)

The great diversity of plants gathered from every corner of the world under Portuguese rule by its earliest gardeners – the German, E. Goeze, and the Frenchman, J. Daveau – illustrated Portugal’s colonial power at the time, though in Europe it was seen as a small and rather peripheral nation.

It’s really wonderful to walk around and sit down for a while in this haven of tranquility and serenity. The park offers the ideal place to explore the vastness and beauty of nature. Wander along mosaic paths under tall palms, take in the scents of the herb garden and visit the colourful butterfly house.

Dracaena Draco (dragon tree)

The systematic collections serve various fields of botanical research, demonstrating to the public and visiting schools the great diversity of plant forms and various ecological processes. They also represent an important and effective way of conserving plants whose survival is threatened.

Some collections deserve a special mention. The outstanding diversity of palms, brought from all continents, confers an unexpectedly tropical atmosphere to several locations in the garden. Cycads, real living fossils representing ancient and mostly extinct floras, are one of the garden’s hallmarks. Nowadays they are extremely rare and certain species are preserved only in botanical gardens.

Pomegranade, native to semitropical Asia.

The garden is particularly rich in tropical species from New Zealand, Australia, China, Japan and South America, illustrating the mild climate and the special microclimates produced in the garden.

Jardim Botânico da Universidade de Lisboa
Rua Escola Politécnica 58
+351-213 921 800
Website: http://www.jb.ul.pt/

Open: summer (1 April to 31 October): everyday from 09:00 to 20:00. Weekends and holidays from 10:00 to 20:00. Winter: everyday from 09:00 to 18:00. Weekends and holidays from 10:00 to 18:00. Closed on Christmas and New Years day.

How to get there: underground Rato station, yellow line

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“When I arrived in Lisbon in December 1969, two days before Christmas, I thought the climate and the light were fantastic. Especially because I had arrived from Belgium where it’s cloudy for nine months of the year and we only get a few months of blue sky. I remember being surprised to see the leaves still on the trees at that time of year.

I fell in love with the city, and still I’m fascinated by the humanism of the Portuguese and the beautiful light.

My background is in photography, I worked in this field until we opened restaurant ‘A Travessa’, which only started as a bit of a joke between me, my husband and a friend.

We opened a small restaurant with good products: coffee that you couldn’t find in Portugal at that time, good bread and good wine, just round the corner from the current ‘A Travessa’, next to the Portuguese Parliament building and surrounded by embassies. Because we were French speakers we got lots of clients from the Belgian and French embassies. It was a hit. We just developed from there and it’s been 30 years this year since we opened. Time flies…..!”

‘A Travessa’ , Travessa do Convento das Bernardas, 12 Bairro da Madragoa – Santo, more details about the restaurant and the menu

“I live in the historic area near the Sao Jorge Castle (Castelo de São Jorge), a delight for residents, with limited car access. The narrow streets of uneven cobbles make life in the centre of the city like living in a village”.

Castelo Sao Jorge, entrance

“When I arrived in Lisbon, I use to go to Sintra a lot. As it’s colder there, I felt closer to Belgium and I dreamt about having a house there. World Heritage Site, this historic town lies 40 km from Lisbon, a must for any visitor!”

Sintra: National Palace da Pena, now a museum. The very old Palace stands on the top of a hill above the town of Sintra. On a clear day it can easily seen from Lisbon.

“In Lisbon, I like to shop in the Baixa and Chiado areas. I don’t like shopping centers, I prefer traditional shops, it’s much nicer to walk around the town”.

Lisbon, Rua do Carmo, Baixa

“i like going to Belém. The Jeronimus Monastery and the famous classic Belém custard tarts (Pasteis de Belém) , always warm, are real musts! And I like the shows at Centro Cultural de Belém, which has got the best concert hall in Lisbon.”

Antiga Confeitaria, since 1837. The recepe of Lisbon’s most celebrated custard tarts is still a well-kept secret…open 7 days a week.

History: at the beginning of the Nineteenth Century, in Belém, next to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (the Heironymite Monastery) there was a sugar cane refinery linked to a small general store. As a result of the liberal revolution of 1820, all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled.

In an attempt at survival, someone from the monastery offered sweet pastries for sale in the shop; pastries that rapidly became known as ‘Pasteis de Belém’.
http://www.pasteisdebelem.pt/index.htm

Graças a Maria Ventura

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