‘Vai Tu’  is a local community group. This neighborhood café is popular with locals who gather to sing along, located in Bica, close to the Bairro Alto area.

You won’t always find the best fadistas, but don’t let that scare you off. This is real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle, where the fado singers can enter spontaneously and improvise.

Every Sunday evening  fado singers and dinner from 20:00 – 24:00. No professional waiters, it’s a volonteer job. The traditional Portuguese food is simple, cheap but good (ca. 5 euro pp), a bottle of wine cost 5 euro.  The atmosphere is very relaxed and it’s a mix of young and old.

This singer is over 80 years old…Vai Tu’ provides a unique window into classic fado popular culture. YouTube

On the wall the legendary painting of Maria Severa

Fadistas often wear a black shawl of mourning as the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando did after her passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. She died at age of 26 in 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Grupo Excursionista ‘Vai Tu’ , Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 6-8  , a very picturesque small street with perhaps Lisbon’s most photographed funicular.

Share on Facebook

Foto’s: René van Gijn

Gunstig gelegen appartement in Mouraria, historisch Lissabon op de 2e etage (100 m2) met 3 slaapkamers, gratis gebruik wireless internet en satelliet TV met o.a. Ned./Belgische zenders. Tot 6 personen te huur. Zon van begin maart tot eind september op de patio. Voor wie er van houdt tijdelijk tussen de bevolking te vertoeven in een oude volkswijk. Meer info over de buurt

Ideaal uitgangspunt om al wandelend de vele bezienswaardigheden van Lissabon te bezichtigen, geen metro nodig naar het centrum. Geen nachtelijk café-lawaai, wel komt er verkeer door het straatje en in Lissabon rijden de vuilniswagens ’s nachts. Levendige buurt met zeer vriendelijke mensen. Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km. (per taxi € 10-12 incl. bagage). Startpunt trammetje 28, metro, taxistandplaats en bussen bij plein Martim Moniz is 3 min. lopen.  Castelo de São Jorge ligt op loop afstand. Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica zijn makkelijk bereikbaar. De legendarische 16e-eeuwse uitgaanswijk Bairro Alto is ca. 15 min. lopen.

Historische wijken worden langzamerhand gerestaureerd, ook Mouraria, dat haar naam dankt aan vroegere bezetters, de Moren (Os Mouros). Het straatje ligt dichtbij twee centrale- en monumentale pleinen Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio in de volksmond) en Praca da Figueira. Mouraria was ooit de bakermat van de  ‘de Fado‘ muziek, nu is het een multiculturele (volks)wijk.

In de buurt is een supermarkt, een bakker met lekker vers brood, veel kleine winkeltjes en goedkope typisch Portugese restaurantjes.

Klimaat & kleding: het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. In de winter kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ’s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, behoorlijk afkoelen. Neem altijd een (regen) jas of trui mee. Actueel weer.  lissabon.startpagina.nl/
Vakantie info Lissabon Gastvrij Portugal. Tickets:  TAP (Portugese luchtvaartmaatschappij) . Lissabon.nl (zoekt ook vanaf Brussel of Dusseldorf), SchipholTickets (onafhankelijke aanbieder van online tickets),
KLM, Ryan Air (naar Faro of Porto). Sneltrein naar Lissbon: Alfa Pendular (online ticket reserveren vanaf 30 dagen vooraf is mogelijk). Feestdagen in Portugal. Bus vanaf Lissabon naar Algarve

Indeling: (woonkamer, 3 slaapkamers, badkamer, keuken & patio

• woonkamer met 2-zits (slaap)bank en antieke uitschuifbare eet/computertafel. Originele houten balkenvloer (in alle kamers). Frans balkonnetje. 2 comfortabele extra stoelen. Satelliet TV met o.a. Ned. zenders, 81 cm LCD TV en DVD speler, radio, CD-speler, draadloze ADSL-aansluiting;
• 3 slaapkamers met uitstekende bedden (geen kleiner Portugees-, maar Hollands formaat);
• slaapkamer met 2- persoons bed aan de straatkant, grote antieke kledingkast. Frans balkonnetje.
• tweede slaapkamer met 2 een-persoons (boxspring) bedden, die eventueel tegen elkaar geschoven kunnen worden (extra 2-persoons donsdekbed aanwezig);
• derde slaapkamer met 2 prima uitklapbedden incl. matrassen en donsdekbedden;
• Chicco baby/kinderbed plus matrasje 0-4 jr.;
• badkamer met douche, ligbad en bidet, gebruik wasmachine en droger inbegrepen, ruime hoeveelheid badlinnen van goede kwaliteit. Haardroger;
• luxueus bedlinnen (Essenza);
• keuken met tafel en stoelen, 2 koelkasten, magnetron, 4-pits kookplaat, oven, goede pannen, waterkoker, koffie/Nespresso zetapparaat, citruspers, (wijn)glazen, borden, bestek, keukenlinnen etc.;
• zonnige (van begin maart tot eind september) rustige patio van ca. 30 m2. Tuintafel met 6 stoelen en een zonne/slaap stoel. Barbecue gedeelte met marmeren aanrecht, 2e radio/CD-speler, grote parasol;
• de indeling van het appartement biedt voldoende privacy. Goede verwarming voor de wintermaanden.

Share on Facebook

Largo do Terreirinho in June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), Santo Antonio

Mouraria is an ancient area in the heart of Lisbon where fado was born. Amália Rodrigues was born nearby. Mariza, the internationally well-known fado singer started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times in bar ANOS 60. Together with Alfama, the area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Armeinio Ramos, owner of restaurant ‘O Basilio’.

Mouraria is still filled with old taverns and very cheap (but good!) small restaurants, serving traditional Portguese food. In contrary to the more ‘touristical’ historical areas, where prices in the restaurants are mostly much higher than those in Mouraria.

Restaurant ‘O Basilio’. Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic) is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast, where clams are easily found. It is called alentejana as being in the manner of the Alentejo, a province of Portugal.

Delicious! If you are not too hungry ask for meia dose (half serving) € 4.80, glass of white wine € 0.75. Recipe youtube

Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. In contrast, very nearby, at Praca Martim Moniz, grandiose buildings are being constructed. The people who live in Mouraria don’t understand why there’s no money available to renovate this ancient historic area.

more……

Share on Facebook

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André. This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. (Three bedroom apartment with patio in Mouraria)

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants. More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon, August 22nd 2007 

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato. http://amalia.no.sapo.pt/casamuseu.htm.

http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=QsgVb4swGfg, Amália Rodrigues, live in Lisbon singing a very famous song: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon. Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

‘Discoteca Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

Amália Rodrigues casa http://amalia.no.sapo.pt/casamuseu.htm.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. The website includes a Fado Guide of Lisbon and recommended Lisbon Fado houses.
Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Share on Facebook

The taverns are the most typical and traditional restaurants in Portugal: tasty appetisers, irresistible cheeses, olives, salt cod rissoles with red pepper rice, sardines,  fried lamb chops, bean stew, beef with sauce.  Great local wines.

Beautiful view from ‘A Tasquinha’ ’s terrace: Largo Contador Mor.

New owner of ‘A Tasquinha’ Romana Mendouça: ‘ My husband and I worked very hard to buy this restaurant. Happily it’s successful, some days we have 120 people for lunch.’ Restaurant speciality: ‘deliciosos molhos’ (delicious sauces).

‘A Tasquinha’ is open from 09:30 till 02:00 (in summertime). Every night live fado from 19:30 till 23:00.

Share on Facebook

Mouraria – all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights. More information Festas de Lisboa

Alfama, June 2008. Santo Antionio & Portuguese flags (EFC) football

Restaurant ‘A Tasquinha’, Largo Contador Mor, Castelo area, really good sardines!

Eating sardines while listening to the fado singers. Fado came long after Saint Anthony, but its major theme is nostalgia and longing-for what is lost and for what has never been gained. Anthony fits right into this scene!

The streets are filled with the delicious (strong) smell of sardines being grilled. It’s not a good time for the sardines  though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

On the night of June 12 you can enjoy the famous yearly Santo Antionio costume Parade. All the clubs and associations of Lisbons’ neighbourhoods descend on Avenida da Liberdade to compete for the best parade, music, costume and choreography.

More…..

Share on Facebook

Beautiful azulejos (ancient tiles), Beco dos Loios, near Feira de Ladra (thieves market).

Beco dos Loios, Alfama, June 2008

Miradouro St. Lucia, halfway between Sé Cathedral and the Castelo Sao Jorge.

Alfama famous tram ‘electrico 28′

Square near the Fado Museum, Largo do Chafariz de Dentro

Alfma is a narrowed maze of streets, nowadays with many fado restaurants  and picturesque houses. The name Alfama originates from the Arabic word Al-Hamma meaning ‘fountains’ or ‘baths’. The area contains many important historical attractions. Authentic house for rent in Alfama , 10 minutes walk from this square

Faded elegance: Chafiraz del Rei, a palace built in 1747, nowadays a pigeons’ home.

After the Mourish domination (7-12 century), Alfama became inhabited by the fishermen and the poor, and the neighbourhood of the poor continues to this day.

In the 19th C. Alfama was a gloomy, dirty and depressing area as a result of unhealthy living conditions. Today the poorer classes continue to live here, mainly in houses in need of renovation. Insufficient heating and draughty walls ensure poor living conditions, especially in wintertime.

At present some of the houses are being renovated.

…..more about Alfama…and street guide

Share on Facebook

Mouraria is one of Lisbon’s oldest districts. It contains a tangled street layout just as in Alfama, which has remained since the times of the Moors. The Arabs withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Portuguese – a ghetto for people of different faiths arose. In the 19th C. prostitution and fado, which at this time was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad name. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap (but good!) small restaurants. Three bedroom apartment with patio in Mouraria

(Largo da Severa’). It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado: The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Famous performer of fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

(’Mouraria, Berço do Fado‘, fado was born here), Rua da Mouraria/ corner Rua do Capelao. Maria is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. But the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music.

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”. Real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle: Tasca do Jaime

There is a plaque in Maria Severa’s memory and a stylized fado guitar can be seen on the newly surfaced road where she lived. The memory of the singer is also kept alive in the pub called “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) in the nearby Rua do Capelao , with a painting of her hanging on the wall.

“Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa)  Rua do Capelao 32, and owner senhor Antonio Correia Alves Pais

Share on Facebook

You won’t always find the best fadistas, but don’t let that scare you off. This is real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle, where the fado singers can enter spontaneously and improvise.

As soon as somebody gets up to sing the audience stops talking and all the attention is on the singer. The Portuguese have a lot of respect for the performers and it is of utmost importance that the singers can concentrate and express their emotions in their singing. When the song is about to finish the audience starts applauding and cheering.

Fado Vario on Saturdays, Sundays and public Holidays from 16:00 to 20:00, Rua da Graça 91, Lisbon.

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as one of Maria Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”.

Share on Facebook

Politicians, journalists and many local celebrities meet up in ‘Anos 60′ to discuss politics, dine and enjoy the live Brazilian and Portuguese music. Mariza, the internationally well-known fado singer started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times in ‘ANOS 60′.

Che Guevara . ‘Anos 60′ means ‘the sixties’. The name was chosen because of the rough political times in the sixties in Portugal, when the Portuguese people suffered under the corrupt dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, president of the Council of Ministers of Portugal for 36 years, from 1932 to 1968, and founder of the Estado Novo (New Regime). On April 25, 1974, the Estado Novo finally fell with the Carnation Revolution.

ANOS 60 owner Fernando Casanova was, as a journalist, part of the intellectual opposition and in his bar still many discussion about the era of the revolution take place. Fernando contributed for 2 years to the political newspaper “Aqui” which was published during the period of the revolution. The ‘Club de Jornalistas’ in Lapa, which now has 700 members, has a strong connection to the bar.

The clock in ‘ANOS 60′ stands still at 04:10. Stories go round that this was the time that the Carnation Revolution started… But according to Fernando, it has another reason. It has to do with the official closing time: 04:00. In the weekends the bar usually closes later. After dancing the night away you walk out onto the street at 07:00, but the clock still indicates 04:10!

In the month of June, festivities take place all over Portugal to celebrate the three Saints – Santo António, São João and São Pedro. The traditional neighborhoods Mouraria and Alfama are decorated in many colours and all the people are dancing in the streets and having barbeques, mostly sardinhas (sardines).

ANOS 60 participates in the festivities: every Tuesday in June there is dancing and live music at Largo do Terreirinho and ‘ANOS 60′ serves dinner outside.

Menu (20 euro)
Sopa ou entrada (soup or starters)
Prato de peixe ou carne (dish with fish or meat)
Sobremesa (dessert)

ANOS 60
Listen to exclusively Portuguese music from the 60s and 70s.
Largo do Terreirinho 21, 1170 Lisbon. Tel. 21887 3444
Opening times: 21:30h – 04:00h. Smoking is permitted.
The door is always closed, but that doesn’t mean the bar is closed. You have to ring the doorbell, like in many other Portuguese places. The reason for the closed doors is that the owners want to welcome you personally. Many foreigners are unaware of this and miss out on a great experience!.

More about this area…

Share on Facebook