How to recognize cheap Portuguese restaurants in Lisbon & tiny restaurant José Maria & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south. The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured.

Lisbon cheap restaurant Jose Mouraria

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice 7.50 euro (fried cod): delicious!

Historical area in Mouraria, Lisbon. Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58: José Maria & his wife Laurinda: good & cheap traditional Portuguese food. Closed on Sunday

Restaurant Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho Laurinda & Jose Marie March 15

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 Lisbon

 Owners Laurinda, Jose Marie & sr. Julio (l), April 2015

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

dutch ladies 4 feb Jose Marie lunch

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

mouraria-jose-marie-erna-deegens-september-2016

September 2016: Erna and Tonny Deegens & friends Marijn and Anneke in Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Good & cheap typical Portuguese food

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda delicious bitoque

For me, Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon 🙂  🙂

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca.7 euro).

Restaurant Jose Marie Santo Antonio 3 beautiful girls

Restaurant José Marie June 2015: Santo Antonio week: Stephanie, Sophia and Clara

Looking for a nice apartment in this old neighborhood? (6 persons can sleep comfortably)

Lisbon Mouraria apartment 3 bedrooms patio 30 m2

My apartment in this area (100 m2), 3 bedrooms & lovely patio (30 m2)

Short time rental3 bedroom holiday apartment with sunny patio in this area

Laurinda Restaurant Mouraria fesh fish

Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

Eating & drinking Portugal displays and football

Football

There’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Unrequested starter dishes:

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!). Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Restaurant Carmar Lisbon Espetada near Martim Moniz

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €, restaurant Carmar Lisbon

Restaurant Carmar: good & cheap Portuguese food: espetada € 6.90, glass of wine € 0.90, small bottle of water € 0.75, café € 0.70.

Rua Arco Marques do Alegrete 1-5 (close to starting point electrical tram 28, square Martim Moniz)

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Carne de porco à Alentejana Lisbon Mouraria cheap restaurants

Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic, meia dose, half portion)

This is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast.

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto: very good and cheap with a traditional Portuguese menu

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 16 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria Lisbon Street tiny restaurant Jose Marie & Laurinda nov 14

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point legendary yellow tram 28

Street view from tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction!

Mouraria Lisbon restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda jan 16

January 2016

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginhain area Mouraria

Rua do Terreirinh0 58 Lisbon

Elegant tea- and lunchroom ‘Versailles’ Lisbon: outstanding old-fashioned service & funny whipped cream pastries

If you like to visit one museum during your stay in Lisbon make it the Gulbenkian. It’s the collection of the Armenian oil billionaire who made Lisbon his home. It covers everything from Egyptian to 20th Century art.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria, Pâtisserie) Versailles Lisbon september 2017

Elegant tea- and lunchroom Versailles (from 1922)

After visiting the Gulbekian Museum, a must-do is to go to the nearby and wonderful old tea and lunchroom Versailles (1922) at Avenida da República, which has it’s own bakery. The homemade cakes and pastries are delicious, like the famous Portuguese Pasteis de natas.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon & delicious funny ‘bird’ pastries 😉

Elegant setting in informal and friendly atmosphere

The decor is rich, with chandeliers, gilt mirrors, stained-glass windows, tall stucco ceilings, and black-and-white marble floors. It looks like it could be straight of Paris…!

Mostly elderly people and greats of the Lisbon cafe scene enjoy their bica (espresso) here.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 : NV Lissabon

History

When lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles was inaugurated on November 25 in the year 1922, the objective was to turn into a symbol of the fashionable Avenidas Novas, an elegant and new neighborhood in Lisbon.

Construction fury first halve of 20th century

The construction fury replaced many of the beautiful small palaces and stylish houses of the first halve of the 20th century by today’s unattractive buildings at Avenida da República, but happily PastelariaVersailles’ is still there!  🙂 🙂

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon, February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Silver-plated tea sets

The wide variety of snacks includes codfish balls and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches. They are also famous for their confectioneries served in a glass.

As an old-fashioned and formal touch, immaculately attired waiters serve customers from silver-plated tea sets. In addition to coffee and tea, the house specialty is hot chocolate.

Tea- and lunchroom (Pastelaria) Versailles Lisbon , February 2017 & NV Lissabon

Grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ & part of national heritage

Pastelaria Versailles, long known as the ‘grande dame‘ of Lisbon’ was recently declared a part of the national heritage. It still serves the famous Mozambique black tea that was introduced in 1662.

Lunch, served in a back room, is of such Portuguese specialties as codfish with almonds. Most visitors come here for tea or coffee, served with sandwiches and snacks. Desserts, including duchesses (whipped-cream cakes) are justifiably famous.

Pastelaria Versailles street 2

Entrance tea- and lunchroom Versailles in Lisbon

Tea and lunchroom Versailles Lisbon
Open: daily from 7:30 till 22:00 
Metro: Saldanha.

Versailles 3 window dressing

Window dressing Pastelaria Versailles representing Portugal and former colonies

Short term rentals: my 3-bedroom apartment (105 m2) with lovely patio in historical area Mouraria
 

Trendy square Intendente Lisbon: Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine’, former grandeur & a lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Largo do Indendente Mouraria Lisbon winter 2014 Ans ansd Loek

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon, in February

Dutch friends Ans de Graaf en Loek Polack.

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Even in wintertime it can be good weather in Lisbon with daytime temperatures that average over 15°C .

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

The place to be for all authentic & lovely Portuguese items, quite expensive

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, square Intendente Lisbon

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Lisbon Largo Intendente Shop 'A Vida Portuguesa' 2014

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon & famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of the  Top Ten façades of Lisbon.

Facebook Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

 

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street parties, grilled sardines & naughty lyrics (Pimba musica)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.

Mouraria Lisbon in June

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon.

YouTube Street party area Mouraria Lisbon 2017

In June, all the streets in the historic areas are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful!

Mouraria Lisbon June 12 2016: Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12Lisbon turns into one big party 🙂

 Festas de Lisboa ; program       Facebook

Mouraria Lisbon Santo Antonio street party June 12 2016

June 12, 2016 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria, Lisbon. Picture: Hans Stuij

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the streets

Wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets.

Festas de Lisboa June 12 2015 Mouraria1

June 12: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria: party time! 🙂

Rua da Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2017 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Mouraria Lisbon, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad

Lisbon Mouraria historical area in June party time

June 12, 2015: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year

Historical area Mouraria, Rua Guia, Lisbon drinking and dancing in the streets

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

2016 parade historical area Mouraria (YouTube)

June 12, 2016 Rua Guia, Lisbon & the yearly Saint Anthony parade

Yearly parades June 12

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.  Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages).

YouTube yearly parade

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints in historical area Mouraria Lisbon

Saint João 😉 😉 (sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Lisbon June 16 2016

Saint Antonio street party Mouraria Lisbon & the black bra at the neighbors’ balustrade 😉 😉

bar Flamingo & Dutch friend Feikje Stuij

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria Lisbon, June 12, 2017 & bar Flamingo  Strike a pose! 🙂

In this area in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom apartment with quiet sunny patio (30 m2) in this old neighborhood , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably, short term rentals)

Santo Antonio Bica party

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto – partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

Lisbon Santo Antonio restaurant Paladar

Bairro Alto historical area Lisbon

Drinks & sardinhas (sardines) with traditional bread

Lisbon Santo Antonio Trindade Pimba music

Largo da Trindade – people are dancing on Pimba music

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

Pimba is a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria 😉 😉  by Quim Barreiros)

Lisbon santo Antonio Alfama BBQ

Historic area Alfama & BBQ in the street

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube in one of the historical parts of Lisbon: Alfama

Santo Antonio Lisbon June 12 2015 Mouraria Grupo desportivo 2

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.

Lisbon Santo Antonio June Sardinhas

Historical area Mouraria in June

Sardines (sardinhas) & the Saint festivities belong together

There’s also the grilled sardines, you can smell it everywhere in the streets! It’s not a good time for sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Manjerico basil Festas de Lisboa gift R June 2

Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

mass marriages Lisbon St. Anthony’s Weddings

Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings”

There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages), held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations.

More…. YouTube

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities

MORE …

Trendy Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon: excellent quality steak or fish & chips à la Marilyn Monroe

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ in Lisbon pays tribute to the Portuguese steak sandwich, the prego, also a traditional snack in seafood restaurants. Recommendable!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & wonderful designed wall

Portuguese way of life & artist Gonçalo Mar

The wall, designed by artist Gonçalo Mar, is a humorous re-creation of a well-known image of Marquis of Pombal, an 18th-century Portuguese statesman. The term Pombaline is used to the architectural style adopted in Lisbon after the great earthquake in 1755.

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & sandwich with tuna fish

It looks delicious and it sure is! 🙂 . Burger with grilled tuna fish 13 € (um prego com atum dos Açores), bread (bolo do caco de alfarroba , Carob tree), accompanied with fried sweet potatoes (batada doce) 1.50 €. Glass of white wine: Papa Figos, 4.00 €.

YouTube: traditional bread from the isle of Madeira , bolo do caco, very tasty!

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017: Pedro & Dina

Boeuf de Wagyu (Japanese super-beef) & Marilyn Monroe potatoe chips

2 croquetes 3.80 €, 1 Rissól de Camarão (shrimp) 1.90 €, Pavé (filet) Yuppie Pão 9.50 €, Prato Pavé de boeuf de Wagyu (dish with vegetables and ‘Marilyn Monroe’ potatoe chips) 11.50 €, 2 fried sweet potatoes (batata doce) 3.00 €, 2 glasses of red wine (O Tinto d’ O Prego) 7.00 €.

Why potato chips (wavy, extremely thin and crispy , as indicated on the menu card) à la Mariliyn Monroe? I assume her famous wavy dress? and maybe Marilyn’s ‘potato sack’ dress?  😉

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Order a steak sandwich in a fishery??

O Prego da Peixaria litterally means ‘the fishery’s steak sandwich’. It sounds confusing but it has to do with a Portuguese tradition: after enjoying a meal in a seafood restaurant it’s usual to order a steak sandwich, o prego .. litt. nail, referring to the full stomach after eating one, as someone told me.. 😉  

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real March 2017

Portuguese history & Casas de Pasto (pasture house) 

The decor is fantastic! The idea is reviving the atmosphere in the cafes and the old Casas de Pasto.

Old Casa de Pasto ‘pasture house’ in Portugal – around 1920 … Source: Kuentro blogspot

Lisbon people (Lisboetas) once had the curious custom of going to stroll gardens to withdraw from the city to enjoy some pleasure of the countryside, usually on Sundays. They organised family picnics or simply had lunch in de old Casas de Pasto, so called because initially only giving fodder to the animals while the owners were negotiating at the fair. In many of them still retain the rings that held the animals.

With the time the owners of the Casas de Pasto also began to feed the animal owners and so flourished a business that came to give rise to the modern restaurants. Source: folclore de Portugal

Restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria’ Lisbon area Principe Real & menu card: with a pencil you can specify which prego or dish you like to order and how: rare, medium or well-done.

Restaurant ‘ O Prego da Peixaria’. No reservations
Rua da Escola Politécnica, 40 | Lisbon | phone 213 471 356. 
facebook Open: every day from 12:00 tot 24:00
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Looking for a short-time rental authentic apartment (with private patio, 30 m2) in the historic area of Lisbon? More info about my apartment in Mouraria & availability calendar

Restaurant/gallery ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais near Lisbon: lovely roof terrace, healthy food & Dutch owner Anna

The ‘House of Wonders’ is really worth a visit if you are in Portugal’s famous vacation spot Cascais. Looking for a healthy lunchtime snack or dinner this unique place is easy to find in the center of the former fishing village close to the beach. Easy to reach from Lisbon (ca. 30 min. by train)

Roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ in Cascais: excellent relaxing place!

The lovely roof terrace with comfortable cushions is situated on the top of the beautiful building. Even in wintertime when the weather is good you can sit here and enjoy the fabulous bayview and the sunset.

Harbour- and seaview from roof terrace ‘House of Wonders’ Cascais

Anna De Bruin is from Dutch origin and owner of “House of Wonders” in Cascais. “I lived 20 years in Africa and South America, where I launched the 1st collection of recycled boat furniture in the Caribbean”.

Cafe Gallery ‘House of Wonders’ owner Anna Catharina de Bruin

Anna: ” I chose Portugal to live because this country is very human and very authentic. It’s a mix between Europe and Africa, where many people are connected to this continent and in spite of the crisis they are positive, like me”.

First floor cafe the “House of Wonders” Cascais, December 2012

You can enjoy a range of home cooked food from the cafe. It is not a vegetarian restaurant but there are good options available. The menu often offer home made soup, quiches, pies and very tasty salads.

Snack with presunto (traditional Portuguese ham)

The food is fantastic and also the very friendly staff! Prices are fair, like a quiche and salad (€ 7.50), vegetable soup (€ 3.50) and a glass of good Portuguese white wine (€3.75).

First floor cafe & art gallery the “House of Wonders” Cascais

The first floor cafe is also an art gallery and there are beautiful African artifacts for sale, mainly handmade. I met a nice lady from Boston: Lynn Kenney (picture). If you are traveling alone the “House of Wonders’ is a cozy place to meet other people from around the world.

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais: Bernardo and Anna

Anna: “This project was my dream! I opened the “House of Wonders” in Cascais around 3 years ago – a beautiful space, very cozy. A unique concept that features furniture and decorative pieces in natural wood, made from old dhowns – abandoned boats from the beaches of the Swahili coast – Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique.

Ground floor “House of Wonders” Cascais: beautiful recycled boat furniture from Africa

Cascais is easy to reach by train from Lisbon’s station Cais do Sodré (around 30 minutes). More about Cascais

First floor Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais

Cafe Galeria House of Wonders Cascais: Largo da Misericordia  in the historic center of Cascais, Portugal. Phone (00351) 91 170 2428.

Facebook . Free WiFi.

House of Wonders Cascais roofterrace oct 13

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais October 2013

House of Wonders rooftop terrace Cascais January 2016

Rooftop Cafe & art gallery “House of Wonders’ Cascais , January 2016

Bakery/cafe Lisbon ‘Fábrica Lisboa’: tasty croissants, old fashioned quality, vintage decoration & erotic Portuguese pottery

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ is responsible for the delicious smell 🙂 wafting through the street Rua da Madelena in Lisbon..

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena croissants

Bakery (padaria)/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : delicious handmade rustic bread and croissants

‘Fábrica Lisboa’  has its own production, which means that the croissants, bread, pies or cakes are constantly coming out of the oven in front of the customers. Traditional portuguese soups, sandwiches made with rustic bread, pies and fresh salads are also served.

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena home made bread

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

Funny Portuguese vintage decoration

When you pass through Rua da Madalena and you hear a bell it’s fresh bread/croissant time!
But this space really deserves a longer visit to appreciate the vintage decoration with delightful and funny details, like old scales, bottles, bread boxes, old phones or pornographic cassettes. Even the coffee machine is vintage…… !

Fabrica cafe Lisboa Rua da Madalena croissant almond

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ & my favorite croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa)

Among the things of the past, take your time to enjoy a ‘late breakfast’ or a snack with salad or scrambled eggs with ham, accompanied by rustic bread.

Croissants ‘old nunnery style’

You can choose between more than 10 different croissants, from simple (plain, € 1.20), old nunnery style (with sweet-soft egg cream, € 1.20, created by nuns who lived in monasteries with a lot of chickens in the garden… 🙂 ) to extra large: 2 fried eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, salad and chips ( € 7.00).

My favorite: a sweet croissant with almonds spread (amêndoa) € 2,20.

This bakery is located about 10 min. walk from my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 lovely patio (short term rentals)

Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena Margriet Jan 16

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ : friend Margriet de Vrieze loves this place. Tea (chá) € 1.75

Cartoon character Zé Povinho – symbol of the Portuguese working-class

The cartoon character Zé Povinho was created by satirist and designer Bordalo Pinheiro in 1875, a symbol of the Portuguese working-class people, as a caricature for the protest against the politics and the high taxes for the simple population. Still nowadays every child in Portugal knows Zé Povinho. ‘Zé’ (José or Joseph in English),  ‘Povinho’ is a diminutive for ‘Povo’, which means ‘people’.

Fabrica Lisboa bakery cafe Rua da Madalena ZE POVINHO

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’  & Zé Povinho, symbol of the Portuguese working-class people

Ceramics from Caldas da Rainha

Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon, is well known for its wonderful ceramic pottery with a long tradition. The output includes large decorative pieces, crockery, tableware and decorative objects, famous all over the world for its unique (and sometimes funny) designs. More…

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Lisbon Rua da Madalena wall with vintage and penis

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Wifi cornervintage decoration

Erotic ceramics, a Portuguese tradition

Why is there a ceramic penis between the vintage decoration? Some centers of ceramic production in Caldas da Rainha has a tradition of phalluses and amusing phallic symbols. The tradition is said to have started in Caldas when King Dom Luis, who ruled from 1861 to 1889, suggested that local potters create something more interesting 😉

Penis-shaped ceramics are for sale in Portugal in all shapes and sizes: f.i. mugs, cups, and plates, or decorative pieces.

Bakery Fabrica Lisboa Rua da Madalena 121 street Lisbon

Bakery/cafe ‘Fábrica Lisboa’ , Rua da Madalena 121, Lisbon

‘Fábrica Lisboa’
Rua da Madalena 121 (Baixa) Lisbon, Portugal
Free WiFi. Web: fabricalisboa.com. Facebook
Open from 08:00 – 20:00; closed on Monday
Weekend: 09:00 – 19:00.

Movie (impressions) on VIMEO

Fabrica cafe Lisboa Rua da Madalena penis tradional ceramics

Bacalhau (codfish, a must-try!), Portugal’s dried, faithful friend & luxury shop Manteigaria Silva Lisbon

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Fish bacalhau codfish Manteigaria Silva

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

365 different ways to prepare codfish

When you stay in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know at least 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

bacalhau-shop1.jpg

Lisbon luxury food shop Manteigaria Silva , Rua D. Antao de Almada 1 Lisbon

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacalhau traditional dish in Portugal

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish.

Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.

History

For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also. Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations. It’s a staple of the Portuguese diet and you’ll find it prepared in all Portuguese homes and (cheap) restaurants.

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Bacalhau a braz

Very popular: ‘bacalhau à brás’, made from thin strips of cod mixed with onions, and thin strips of potatoes bound by eggs.

Codfish Gomes de sa

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish pastry), croquetes.

A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine or beer on tap(imperial)!

Cool spot to relax by Lisbon’s river Tagus: Cariocas do Rio, wonderful terrace, sunbeds, good food, slow service, great view 25 April bridge & Cristo Rei statue

UPDATE May 2016:

Nowadays this place is totally different with a new owner: the Monte Mar’ restaurant occupies this space

If you’re in Lisbon for a few days and looking for a cool spot to relax or enjoy a lunch near the Tagus river, I can recommend ‘Cariocas do Rio’. One of the best places in the area!

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio relax nearTagus river1

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’ Lisbon: cool spot to relax near the river Tagus

‘Cariocas do Rio’ (litt. native inhabitants of the city of Rio de Janeiro) is located only 5 minutes walk from Cais do Sodré , Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation and ferry terminal.

Quiet place on weekdays during lunchtime

Especially on weekdays it’s a nice and quiet place to enjoy a lunch by the river, or to laze in the sun in one of the lounge chairs while sipping a caipirinha (Brazil’s national and very popular cocktail). YouTube

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio relax near Tagus river 2 lunch Erika

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’ Lisbon near Lisbon’s ferry terminal: April 2015, lunch with friend Erika Reusens

From snacks and varied inputs to more complex dishes, there is a bit of everything. With a strong tendency to Mediterranean cuisine, like f.i. the salad Caprese, very fresh. Delicious!

Lunch & ferry to Cacilhas, the south bank of Lisbon

While watching the ferries coming and going across the river to Cacilhas (worth a visit!), the south bank of Lisbon, we enjoyed our lunch: vegetable soup (sopa) € 3.50, salmon salad (salade de salmão) € 9.50, hamburger € 10.00. Bottle of white wine: Planalto  € 14 .00, Small bottle of water (agua) € 2.75.

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio near Tagus river 3 sunbeds

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’ Lisbon: wonderful views! 25 April Bridge & Cristo Rei statue

‘Best place to date’ in Lisbon

This terrace, cataloged as ‘best place to date’ in Lisbon by Brazilian magazine Veja, is a great place for lunch, snack, dinner or just to have a good time enjoying the river with a hot drink or a glass of wine, especially in the evening, to experience the lounge chairs. It’s a very romantic place to watch the sunset…  🙂

Lisbon terrace restaurant Cariocas de Rio near Tagus river 4

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio‘ Lisbon: very romantic place near the river Tagus

March to October: serving meals from 12am to midnight & bad customer service

The terrace serves meals from 12:00 to 24:00 every day of the week from March to October. Blankets are available for colder nights.

The atmosphere is calm and relaxed,  but sometimes a bit tooooo relaxed 🙁  . The customer service is quite bad, see also: Facebook

Lisbon terrace Cariocas do Rio near the river Tagus how to get there 1

Terrace ‘Cariocas do Rio’, 5 minutes walk from metro station Cais do Sodré 

Terrace CARIOCAS DO RIO – from 12am to midnight every day of the week from March to October.
Rua da Cintura, Armazém 65, easy to reach from metro station Cais do Sodré 
Cais do Gás – 1200 Lisbon
Phone: 00351 213220160


Lisbon terrace Cariocas do Rio near the river Tagus at night foto by Armazem F 2

Terrace ‘Cariocas of Rio’ in the evening: great view (picture: ‘Armazém F‘)

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: starting point tram 28, multicultural delicacies, music, dancing & aphrodisiacs

When you travel to Lisbon it is a must to visit the legendary St. George’s castle. Walking from the beautiful  Rossio square to Castelo de São Jorge, you will cross square Praça Martim Moniz (GOOGLE MAP), starting point of the legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction.

Square Martim Moniz : Kiosk ‘A Preta’ (‘The Black’) : João (Johnny) and his sister Luiza Gabriel

Short term rentals: my 3bedroom authentic apartment (110 m2) in this historical part of Lisbon with a lovely patio, 5 minutes walk from this square

Kiosk with a tropical touch. João and his sister Luiza (DJ Lady G Brown) serve super good hamburgers, delicious pinchos (meat on a stick), salades and fresh juices. They were born in Angola, a former colony of Portugal (from the 16th century to 1975). They moved to Lisbon in 1982. Johnny worked a few years in Amsterdam and he speaks a little Dutch (‘lekker!‘)

Kiosk ‘A Preta’ Square Martim Moniz Lisbon; hamburger with salad and potatoes € 5,50. Delicious! Salad: 4.00 €

Square Martim Moniz, located in the most multicultural area in Lisbon is nowadays a place where you can enjoy a light (also vega) meal in the sun: a meeting of cultures that will host delicacies from the four corners of the world, in the weekends there’s a market selling biological products, shops, music and shows.

Facebook & monthly events calendar Square Martim Moniz Mercado de Fusão

Castle of Saint Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge ) overlooking square Martim Moniz Lisbon

Here you can eat samosas, or a pizza, or ice cream, or a hamburger, or a vegetarian snack … drinking a cold beer, listen to live music or a DJ and enjoy the warm summer evenings. The Castelo de São Jorge overlooking the historical centre of Lisbon, and the entire square has a view of the castle.

Square Martim Moniz : vegetarian kiosk Erva & Carla Contige

Kiosk with green cuisine: vegetarian, vegan and macrobiotic specialities, made with fresh ingredients and prepared with love by Carla Contige…. You must try the salad, full of fruit, greens and seeds, or a Vega burger (€ 5). Besides: Carla is a very beautiful girl….. 🙂

Square Martim Moniz November: kiosk mr. LEADER (BBQMM)

Kiosk with a cook of Chinese origin. I tasted his creation of an empadão, a mix of minced meat and mashed potatoes.

Empadão (pie) mix: minced meat with mashed potatoes, linguiça (smoke cured pork sausage seasoned with garlic and paprika), bacon an dried chili peppers

Delicious! ( 3.50 euro)

Square Martim Moniz Mercado de Fusão

Aphrodisiacs and liqueurs like Licor de Merda (made of shit)  😉

The Liqor de Merda was born in 1974. It is a Portuguese alcoholic drink and the literal translation is “Shit liqueur”. Portugal went through a turbulent period marked by the struggle bewteen left and right. It was made to “honour” the government and, despite being a milk licor, it is said that it’s made with the best different types of shit.

Square Martim Moniz Kiosk ‘A Preta’ : here you can enjoy sun and music (DJ is Rycardo)

YouTube Square Martim Moniz Lisbon

On Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ ( Soul, Funcky, Reggae, World Music, Jazz and more..) to liven up the square and to get you in the mood for the weekend. Here you can find all the cultures and flavours from around the world: 10 fast food kiosks from various continents, America, Africa, Europe and Asia that await you for an alternative dining experience.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon: people are invited to dance for ONE BILLION RISING

There’s also a stage on the square, always ready to host concerts, lectures, workshops and much more….. A Fun Track is also available in one of the kiosks, which rents pedal karts, streetsurfing boards, scooters, skateboards and roller skates for both children and adults.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, Christmas period

Every day the kiosks are open from 10:00 till midnightOn Thursdays and Fridays from 3 PM to midnight there’s a DJ . Every Saturday and Sunday a Fusion market is held here, Mercado de fusão (10h às 19h), bringing together the Martim Moniz retail trade with famous shops in the city.

Near this square is the starting point of the legendary tram 28.

Knight & hero Martim Moniz

Stylized depiction in the square Martim Moniz metro station

Hotel Mundal rooftop terrace Ans de Graaf Jan 16

Saint Jorge Castle Lisbon: view from rooftop terrace hotel Mundial square Martim Moniz & friend Ans de Graaf from Holland

Saint Jorge Castle & hero Martim Moniz

Who was Martim Moniz? He was a hero! He sacrificed himself in 1147. According to the legend, Martim Moniz was a knight participating in the Christian invasion force, led by king Afonso I of Portugal. At one point in the siege of São Jorge Castle, he saw the Moors closing the castle doors. He led an attack on the doors, and sacrificed himself by lodging himself in the doorway, preventing the defenders from fully closing the door.

Rob Plews December 2012 Praca Martim Moniz kiosk A Preta

Friend Rob Plews square Martim Moniz Lisbon

Mercado de fusão on Facebook