June 12, historic area Mouraria Rua da Guia Lisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!

June 2011: Mouraria Lisbon, Santo António, Rua João do Outeiro.

Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint

Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, the oldest areas of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria in June, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights. My 3-bedroom apartment with patio is for rent in this area (short term rentals)

June 12 in Lisbon: Adamastor, Santa Catarina  near the Tagus River, a popular viewpoint & gathering place.

In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.

Lisbon, June 12, Bairro Alto area

The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘

June 12, 2011. Famous Bica funicular Lisbon, a popular tourist attraction

Partying in the small streets around the famous Bica funicular, highly valued by tourists.

A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto , possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B , Lisbon

On June 12 the festivities in Lisbon already start around noon, and everywhere you hear music coming out of the cafes and restaurants. Even this beggar started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Historical area Mouraria in June: Rua da Guia, Lisbon

In the month of June all the narrow streets in Lisbon’s historical areas are packed with stalls selling sangria and beer. Everywhere there’s the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines – the traditional food of the Saint Anthony celebrations are grilled sardines - but you can also go for barbecued chicken, chouriços (sausage) or pork.

June 12 Lisbon historical area : Arraial da Mouraria, dancing in the streets

There’s lots of dancing through the night. The best thing to do is just keep going and enjoy! Throughout old Lisbon there are ‘arraiais‘ (open air parties). The party goes on until dawn. More about Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria

Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon - pots with manjerico (basil)

During this festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30pm, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides. Youtube movie Saint Anthony festivities 2011

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‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This wonderful small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary flea market Feira da Ladra (a must see when you visit Lisbon) or after visiting the National Pantheon (on the background), in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like for example Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids – and also offers Wi-Fi. A little further down, there is a playground. 

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)

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Rua do Salvador/corner Rua de São Tomé, Alfama Lisbon

Here you will find a real Portuguese atmosphere, quite close to the famous viewpoint and tourist attraction Portas do Sol

Rua do Salvador is named after the city of Salvador in Brazil, a former Portuguese colony (from 1500-1825). Historic name: Cidade de São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos ( ”City of the Holy Savior of the Bay of all Saints”).

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Lisbon, typical Portuguese restaurant

Small restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a real tasca, serving affordable good Portuguese standard snacks and dishes, also loved by locals. Typical in historic area Alfama is a singing canary (or other types of birds, like a parrot) in a small cage hanging from windows and doors.

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Alfama, Lisbon, in the afternoon

Tourist menu 7 euro (starter, main course and dessert). Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a traditional Portuguese family restaurant. The atmosphere is very relaxed, the food is cheap but tasty.

Typical in historic area Alfama in Lisbon: a singing bird in a cage, this very nice bird is a Katara

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ in Alfama is open from Monday to Saturday from 11:00h until 24:00h. Closed: Sunday. In the smaller restaurants in Lisbon the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth and you can pay cash only.

Rua do Salvador, Lisbon

While walking around in this narrow old street you will discover hard working people and small shops.

Tiago Praça in his atelier, pottery Olaria Lisbon, Rua do Salvador 57

Rua do Salvador 57: pottery Olaria, handmade ceramics, tiles and much more. Probably the only pottery in Lisbon working with wheels. Here you can find a nice Portuguese souvenir from 2 euros.

Vintage store & atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Alfama Lisbon

Designer Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975 . In 2010 Alberto opened his atelier/store in Rua do Salvador.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Here you can find all kinds of cool vintage stuff and old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines, created by Alberto. Blog: coisasdoalberto

Suitcase created by Alberto: Amália Rodrigues, Lisbon’s ‘Queen of Fado’

Alberto Gourgel: “I like this very old street in Alfama, it’s a mix of old and modern Lisbon. The owner of the fish shop next door sells fish while singing fado songs. Besides I’m very glad to rent this place quite close to the  “Feira da Ladra’, Lisbon’s famous flea market“.

This legendary flea market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk, visited by lots of tourists from all over the world.

Atelier/store Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Alberto: “I often find nice old stuff at auctions. Portugal is a poor country and in the past people bought their furniture when they got married for the rest of their lives. When they die the furniture often is sold at auction. Young people here like going to Ikea. But it’s not only a business, I really like what I do”.

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Mouraria, Lisbon: nostalgic drawing by Carlos Fernandez

Carlos Fernandez earns his bread as a tattoo artist (tattoos are very popular in the neighborhood), and besides he loves it to create nostalgic drawings about the typical characteristics, traditions, history and culture about the 900 years neighborhood Mouraria in Lisbon, such as the Fado guitar and Fado singers.

Legendary Fado singer Maria Severa

Maria Severa, the first Fadista , who died at age 26 in1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis, was born in this area. A very sad story! Famous performer of Fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ , was born near Mouraria , Rua Martim Faz. No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria.

Carlos Fernandez

Historical area Mouraria exists 900 years, and together with Alfama Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods of great historical value.

Carlos Fernandez: “In the past there were many fights between the two areas: the sailors who lived in Alfama and the gangs of Mouraria were fighting against each other. My drawings are about ‘nostalgia’, and they are my interpretation of the neighborhood, such as prostitution (putas), drugs, bullfighting, card playing, fishermen and fishwives (pescadores e varinhas) and selling newspapers on the street”.

Mouraria in June, (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

Carlos: ” And of course football (Benfica/Sporting), chestnuts (castanhas, in yellow papers), the vintage yellow trams in Lisbon (eléctrico), Feira da Ladra (litt. thieves market), the 25 April revolution, pickpocketing, cheap wine like bull’s blood (Sangue de touro), hanging laundry, cats on the roofs, birds in cages and traditions like Santo Antonio in June and eating sardines (sardinhas)”.

‘Old tram 28′ (eléctrico), nowadays a very popular tourist attraction, drawing by Carlos Fernandez

The legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. You can hop on and hop off. A ride with ‘eléctrico’ tram 28 will bring you to most historical attractions in Lisbon. Besides: tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

Drawing Carlos Fernandez: ‘Mouraria’

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities, parades and live music that take over the city’s historical center, and of course it’s party time in Mouraria!.

Santo Antonio, the Saint of true love… This beautiful one is made from recycled material

The main Saints’ days are for Anthony (Santo Antonio June 12-13), John (June 23-24) and Peter (June 28-29). Traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas), accompanied by traditional bread, are grilled in the month of June, high season for this delicious silvery fish. Even the yellow trams are decorated with sardines!

Mouraria in June: Fado performances in old yellow trams decorated with sardines. Authentic apartment for rent in this 900 years old area of Lisbon

Lisbon’s craziest night is June 12, eve of Saint Anthony day , Lisbon turns into one big party. People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meaning.

Exposition Carlos Fernandez, Santa Luzia, Lisbon. The municipality of Lisbon owns this building

In February an exposition was held in a small building near the Tagus River: ‘Fado, Knives and Blood’ (‘Fado, Navalhas e Sangue’).

If you are interested to see more of Carlos’ work (and prices), you can send him an email: fadonavalhasesangue@gmail.com

Tourists are interested to see the exposition, Santa Luzia

Besides: Santa Luzia is a very popular and historical viewpoint (miradouro) in Lisbon, next to viewpoint Portas do Sol. Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus!

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Maria João Menezes – ViniPortugal Managing Director Lisbon

ViniPortugal in Lisbon is located in the Ministry of Agriculture premises in Terreiro do Paço (Praça do Comerçio), one of the most majestic squares of Lisbon.

Praça do Comerçio, Lisbon February 2011. Picture: Martijn Kramers

In elegant surroundings, you can taste fine Portuguese wines offered by producers through their respective regional wine growing commissions.

ViniPortugal, free wine tasting & tourist information Portuguese wine regions, Sala Ogival, Lisbon

A selection of wines from three different regions changes every month (regional calendar for 2011), and allows visitors/tourists to taste wines from all over Portugal. Some wines available for tasting can also be purchased and the very friendly and professional staff is always on hand to provide information of the wines currently available.

Wine tasting: a branco (white) wine and a rosado (rosé) wine

In comfortable chairs you can take the time to enjoy the wines. Every visitor receives a ‘tasting sheet’ (English/Portuguese) and more information about the three regions. To fill in she sheet you have to give your opinion about your ‘wine emotions’, like ’aos olhos’ (eyes), ‘no nariz’  (nose) and ‘ na boca’ (mouth). The tasting notes are used for market research.

A selection of wines from three different Portuguese regions

The huge space is separated by large panels decorated with a variety of pictures showing parts of a human body like beautiful lips (In Love), a belly (Mysterious) and a woman’s brest (Relaxed), accompanied by stories about wine

Descontraída - Relaxed

“The Portuguese, according to the French, are always having a party. We are cheerful whenever events are happy. That’s normal, is it not? Whenever we feel happy, we drink a toast to the hapiness and joy of those we love. Good wine – be it red, white, rosé or generous – cheers the heart. Cheerful soul? Cheerful wine? Let us celebrate whenever there is a festive occasion”

 Isabel Rebelo

The Lisbon Sala Ogival  is the first permanent space devoted to promoting Portuguese wines, preceding its sister location in Oporto, which opened on February 7, 2007 in the Palácio da Bolsa in the historic area of the city.

Lisbon: Sala Ogival

From Tuesday to Saturday, between 11.00 and 19.00, ViniPortugal‘ s Sala Ogival de Lisboa is open to the public, located at Praça do Comércio (“Black Horse Square”).

Tel. 00351 213 420 690. Mail: sala.ogival@viniportugal.pt

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‘Pop Up’ 2010 Art Gallery Santa Catarina Palace: Artwork Tiago Chagas

Nowadays the municipality of Lisbon is the owner of the former Palace, and excellent art exhibitions are regularly held here, like in December 2010: ‘Pop Up’ Art Gallery, a urban culture international festival that challenges creators of multiple areas of artistic expression to intervene in vacant or abandoned urban spaces, giving them new life through art. The  former Palace is one of the projects, more:  Website Pop Up

Cultural agenda Lisbon

‘Pop Up’ art 2010: the former Palace’s stairs in the hall

‘Pop Up’ started in 2009 in Lisbon city, but intends to become an international platform of urban culture exchange, bringing together artists and talents from different cities around the world, aiming to promote Lisbon cultural identity in and out of doors. Youtube video

Palace Verride (known as Santa Catarina) Palace Lisbon. This year, ’Pop Up’ had “Urban Nomads” for a theme and pigeons as their icon.

The 18th- century Santa Catarina Palace’s history dates back to the first half of the 18th century. The Palace has seen various uses, a number of different owners and successive work campaigns. The Baron and Viscount of Moledos, Francisco de Paula Silva Tovar, deputy to the constitutional courts, resided there in the 1820s.

Recently the MUDE museum (art, design & fashion) housed here, nowadays located in Baixa area, really worth a visit! 

Beautiful ornamented ceilings and azulejos (Portuguese tiles)

Happily many of the original and beautiful rooms of the old Palace are still preserved, such as ornaments in the ceilings and beautiful tiles. In the 1980s, the well-known architect and painter João de Almeida, made several changes.  The Lisbon City Council purchased the palace in 2003.

Popular river Tagus viewpoint right next to the Santa Catarina Palace:  Adamastor viewpoint and Moorish kiosk (quiosque) cafe.

‘Adamastor’  is a popular viewpoint (miradouro) and gathering place in Lisbon ovelooking the river Tagus, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. More nostalgic Moorish kiosks near favorite tourist attractions

 ’Pop Up’ 2010 Palace Santa Catarina: artwork Tiago Chagas,  ’Don’t Panic’ Lisbon

‘Don’t Panic’ is a unique free publication directed towards young people and emerging artists in areas like music, design, fine arts, cinema, theater, literature, graffiti, dance, fashon, clubbing and many others

YouTube video ‘Don’t panic’ Lisbon

‘Pop Up’  2010: Santa Catarina Palace Lisbon: artwork Tiago Chagas

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The lounge area of Portas do Sol, September 2010

Amazing views overlooking the Alfama rooftops and the river Tagus! After visiting the nearby  São Jorge Castle (the Castle of St. Jorge),  this is a place where you can sit down, chill out and enjoy the beauty of Lisbon.

Entrance Porta do Sol cafe, bar/cafe and restaurant, 1000 m2 terrace

This cafe/bar and restaurant is located just near the famous Portas do Sol Miradouro (viewpoint). above a public car park. It has direct access on the tram 28 which is the more touristic of the Lisbon trams.

Enjoy a drink and the spectacular views.

It’s a lovely spot to sit down and relax with sofas and soft lounge-music, a place during the day where you can hang out and have coffee and snacks. They serve wines, cocktails, champagne and menu’s. Live music with a DJ on Fridays and Saturdays. Beautiful bar with crystal chandlers and chairs in art deco and romantic style (250m2).

Open daily from 10am to 12pm. Fridays, Saturdays and nights before a public holiday until 2am.

Website Portas do Sol. Cultural agenda? email to: mailto:ola@portasdosol.biz . Address: Largo das Portas do Sol, Beco de Santa Helena, Tel: 218 851 299

Portas do Sol ‘s  terrace/lounge area

Seen from the nearby famous viewpoint with the same name, a very popular place for locals and a famous tourist attraction. One of the most beautiful places in Lisbon!

Viewpoint (Miradouro) Portas do Sol Alfama Lisbon, by night

The Belvedere Portas do Sol is a balcony space that all people of Lisbon are proud to have at their disposal. Magnificent view of Lisbon and the typical Alfama district that spans several narrow, winding streets to the river Tagus.

View from the nearby small terrace

Located in between several highlights of Lisbon (like the viewpoint of Santa Luzia) , the Portas do Sol miradouro is the terrace that every person living in Lisabon would like to have at home…..

Statue of São (Saint) Vincent, Portas do Sol

There is also a statue of Saint Vincent holding a boat with two ravens, the symbols of Lisbon. Saint Vincent of Saragossa, better known locally as Saint Vincent of Fora, is the patron saint of Lisbon.

Largo das Porta do Sol, and the former city palace, Museum of Decorative Arts

In this wonderful 17th C. former city palace of the Count of Azurara, currently houses the Museum of Decorative Arts. Anyone interested in decorative arts in general and the Portuguese Empire in particular will find this collection fascinating. Beautiful azulejos (tiles)!

The popular tram 28 (video) stops near the Museum and the viewpoints

If you wanna get a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, a very good idea is taking this typical little trolley, ‘eléctrico 28′. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. Of course you can hop on and hop off.

The nearby viewpoint Miradouro of Santa Luzia

Various small gardens along the edge of the walkway are filled with beautiful local flowers during the spring and summer months.

Viewpoint Miradouro de Santa Luzia by night

This is a very popular look-out point from the Alfama area of Lisbon, next to the Santa Luzia Church.

Viewpoint (miradouro) Santa Luzia

On the wall of the church are two beautiful tile panels (azulejos): one of Lisbon’s majestic Square Praça do Comércio before the earthquake in 1775, and another one showing the Christians attacking (the nearby) Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George’s Castle) in 1147.

Miradouro Santa Luzia

Azulejos (tiles) have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. This place is a wonderful tile treasure!

Restaurant ‘Miradouro Sta Luzia’ near the viewpoint, a very popular tourist place.

Authentic 3-bedroom apartment for rent in the historical part of Lisbon

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After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport. As far as I know nobody here seems to complain

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

An example of a ’front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos Prazeres, Praça São João Bosco  More about cemeteries in Portugal

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‘Vai Tu’ is a local community group. This neighborhood café is popular with locals who gather to sing along, located in Bica, close to the Bairro Alto area.

You won’t always find the best fadistas, but don’t let that scare you off. This is real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle, where the fado singers can enter spontaneously and improvise.

Every Sunday evening  fado singers and dinner from 20:00 – 24:00.

No professional waiters, it’s a volonteer job. The traditional Portuguese food is simple, cheap but good (ca. 5 euro pp), a bottle of wine cost 5 euro.  The atmosphere is very relaxed and it’s a mix of young and old.

This singer is over 80 years old…Vai Tu’ provides a unique window into classic fado popular culture. YouTube

On the wall the legendary painting of Maria Severa

Fadistas often wear a black shawl of mourning as the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando did after her passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. She died at age of 26 in 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Grupo Excursionista ‘Vai Tu’ , Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 6-8 , a very picturesque small street with perhaps Lisbon’s most photographed funicular.

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The (normally yellow) and famous tourist attraction funicular in Bica. Artist Alexandre Farto  covered the outside of the funicular with mirror-acrylic, called it ’Espectro’  (Spectre) and pays tribute to the neighbourhood that is reflected in the lift during the journey, as if it were a film…. (From January – June 2010). Amazing!

This project  ‘Art in movement’  (“Arte em Movimento”) is part of a Cultural Program for the promotion of Public Art, which CARRIS  (bus & tram services including timetables) intends to carry out in some vehicles of its public service fleet. In 2010, the chosen vehicles were one lift (the Santa Justa) and the 3 funiculars, all of them are national monuments since 2002.

Typical Portuguese:  hanging laundry, drying in the wind.

It climbs the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo for 245 metres from the Rua Sao Paulo.

Largo de Santo Antoninho, right next to Bica’s funicular downhill starting point.

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