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After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport. As far as I know nobody here seems to complain

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

An example of a ’front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos Prazeres, Praça São João Bosco  More about cemeteries in Portugal

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March 2010, a cloudy day..

The roof terrace, giving long views over the river and the city, is very popular. The hotel is on the arty side of town, located in the ancient quarter (Bairro Alto)  and Chiado, a nice traditional area and an elegant shopping district.

Strechted out on one of the chairs, you can watch night fall while savouring a glass of wine… A lunch is also available, but don’t expect a typical Portuguese lunch: ‘just light snacks’, according to the very friendly waiter.

Caesar salad (€12.50), sandwich (€9.50). Glass of white wine (€5.00). We liked the food but we were still a bit hungry   mixed cheese platter (€12.00)

The other side of the River Tagus and the famous Cristo Rei Statue… How to get there?

Chiado city view. Nearby the hotel: cafe ‘A Brasileira’ and the statue in bronze of Portugals famous poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935), once a regular customer, still mobbed by lots of tourists…

The 1845 building of hotel Bairro Alto started life as the Grand Hotel of Europe. It became a favourite haunt for writers and artists. Its 18th-century façade forms part of the historical Luis de Camões square, named after a very famous Portuguese poet.

Square Praça Luís de Camões . On the background Hotel Bairro Alto. The location is perfect for sightseeing and nightlife.  Bairro Alto by night

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The (yellow) and famous tourist attraction funicular in Bica. Artist Alexandre Farto  covered the outside of the funicular with mirror-acrylic, called it ’Espectro’  (Spectre) and pays tribute to the neighbourhood that is reflected in the lift during the journey, as if it were a film…. (From January – June 2010). Amazing!

This project  ‘Art in movement’  (”Arte em Movimento”) is part of a Cultural Program for the promotion of Public Art, which CARRIS  (bus & tram services including timetables) intends to carry out in some vehicles of its public service fleet. In 2010, the chosen vehicles were one lift (the Santa Justa) and the 3 funiculars, all of them are national monuments since 2002.

Typical Portuguese:  hanging laundry, drying in the wind.

It climbs the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo for 245 metres from the Rua Sao Paulo.

Largo de Santo Antoninho, right next to Bica’s funicular downhill starting point.

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Camões Square (Praça Luís de Camões), just behind Camões’ statue , close to the statue of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Pessoa (1888-1935),  still mobbed by many tourists nowadays and a good, cheap and traditional Portuguese restaurant ‘Casa da India’.

Park Principe Real

After shopping people like to take a break in this wonderful park with lots of exotic plants and trees, near Bairro Alto, posssibly one of the best (and gay) spots in Europe for a night out! Les Mauvais Garçons , popular and ”très-chic” cafe/restaurant.  

Nearby you’ll find the  Botanical garden , one of Europe’s finest.

Kiosk Rua Dom Pedro

Rua Dom Pedro V  is a wonderful avenue for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

 Largo Trindade Coelho

Small kiosk near ‘Casa da Comida’ (’ the house of food’), a new cafetaria/ restaurant in the wonderful bamboo garden of Museum São Roque. This museum and church is home to Italian art from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Cais do Sodré

Cais do Sodré  is Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation ( ‘Linha de Cascais’  name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) and ferry terminal. A major bus station is sited outside the front of the Cais do Sodré station, with a Carris  small kiosk selling transport passes, tickets and guides.

On the background Restaurant Marisqueira ‘Guarda Rio’, overlooking the river Tagus, the marisqueira (seafood) is unfailingly fresh!

Viewpont Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This wonderful belvedere will give you a unique insight into the city and magnificent views on the old Moorish castle Castelo de São Jorge.

Above Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra .  The Moorish influence is still present in Alfama and in Mouraria, where the Moors kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. Authentic 3-bedroom apartment with patio for rent in this old Moorish quarter

After browsing the market it’s a good idea to have lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao de Santa Clara’  just above the market, serving real Portugese food for a good price.

‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon overlooking the Tagus river, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. From this vista point you have the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, nearby my favorite cafe/bar Noobai 

Kiosk Rua de São Paulo, near Cais do Sodré  station and, on the other side of the road,  Mercado da Ribeira (famous market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome.

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But it’s really worth taking a ferry at Cais do Sodré  to Montijo, walk around in this picturesque village, have lunch and take a bus to the centre of Alchochete and walk to the beach called Samouco (ca. 15 min.)

Beautiful views: Lisbon city and the 25 April Bridge. 

The ferry trip to Montijo takes about 20 minutes and give you a chance to enjoy the river and the views of Lisbon and the surrounding areas. Return ticket: euro 5.60.

Montijo, Praça da República

You’re away from the crowds…and it is really a pleasure walking around here.

Montijo , a lazy afternoon, September 2009, Rua Guerra Junqueiro. Not one tourist in sight! Coffee (bica) euro 0,60.

Alcochete , Samouco beach

From Montijo, take a bus to Alcochete centre and walk 15 minutes to Samouco beach  (YouTube).  You can enjoy watching pink flamingos or egrets (white heron) near the Reserva Natural of the Tagus river, which is famous for the birds.

Of course in July and August there are more tourists. On the background: Lisbon and the ‘twin towers’, Parque das Nações.  Alcochete, like Sintra, has in the past been a popular haunt for royalty, coming here to relax and holiday. The town’s foundation dates back to the 7th century, after the Moors conquered Lisbon. Its name derives from the Arabic word for kiln, as there have been many found in the area. Bullfighting also has a history here, and bulls are still let loose in the streets during the Barrete Verde and Salinas Feasts (the second weekend of August).

Fitness exercises at the beach…. ! On de background: Vasco da Gama Bridge

Near the beach there’s a small cafe. Very nice people!  Typical Portuguese snacks and drinks: coffee (bica) 0,60, glass of beer 0,60, Portwine 1 euro. Glass of whiskey 2 euro.

By car it’s ca. 30 minutes from Lisbon to Alcochete beach. The wonderful Vasco da Gama Bridge connects Alcochete and Montijo with Lisbon.

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The price for eacht ticket is € 20 for adults and € 10 for children.

These Tagus river boat trips are onboard of a renovated, traditional ‘Cacilheiro‘, the boats that, in former times, ferried the local population across the river. This type of ferry is called “cacilheiro” because it connects Lisbon to Cacilhas (Almada) on the south side of the river.

Praça do Comércio, June 2009

The trips are organised by Transtejo, starting at Praça do Comércio ferry terminal, at the foot of the hill dominated by the Castle of São Jorge (Castle of Saint George) and the historical neighborhood Alfama.

Alfama and The National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like Amalia Rodrigues, the very famous fado singer.

São Rafael ‘twin towers’

Parque das Nações (Park of the Nations) is a modern, commercial and residential area. The Vasco da Gama is a multi-story shopping centre, around 200 stores selling a full range of products. Many attractions built for the Expo ‘98 remained and keep drawing visitors, such as the Oceanarium, one of the world’s biggest aquariums.

Ponte 25 de Abril (25th of April Bridge) and Christo Rei (Christ the King) Statue

The enormous Christo Rei monument is built in 1959 in thanks to God for having spared Portugal during World War II, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro. ‘God opens his arms to the city’. How to get there

Chef máquinista (engineer) João Celestina Silva and Antonio Duarte (captain)

The boats have a capacity of 279 people. Two of the four saloons are open air and all have a bar (one free drink) and tourist information available in various languages, provided by the stewards on board.

Torre de Belém

The Belém Tower was built in the early sixteenth century in the Portuguese late-Gothic style, the Manueline. This defensive, yet elegant construction has become one of the symbols of the city, a memorial to Portuguese power as it was during the Age of Discovery. In 1983, it was classified, together with the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery), as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Belém, Monument to the Discoveries

Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the famous monument that celebrates the Portuguese who took part in the Age of Discovery of the 15th and 16th centuries, located on the estuary of the Tagus river where ships departed to their often unknown destinations.

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The location, right next to the river Tagus, is an ideal place to take just a coffee or a beer after a walk in the center of Lisbon, a typical Portuguese lunch or a romantic night and dinner for 2….

The very old wooden building of the restaurant has a long history.  It was built in 1904, used by the Fiscal Guards (Guarda Fiscal) as an observation post to watch the ‘contrabando’ (smugglers) who arrived by boat from overseas.

Inside the restaurant you can see a picture of the original building.

Three times a fire destroyed parts of the building. In the 30’s it was rebuilt and during the second World War, it was used for operations in support of Jewish people, trying to catch a boat to America. (Portugal was a neutral country).

José Carlos Viejas, the owner of Restaurant ‘Guarda Rio‘ since 1994, and the very friendly waiter Carlos Antunes.

My lunch; a delicious grilled dorado (also known as dolphin-fish) 9 euro, a glass of white wine (um copo de vinho branco) 2,00, small bottle of water (agua) 1:00.

José Carlos Viejas: “in 1994 I bought this place. Due to the fire that destroyed the building it was rebuilt from scratch, going to host a nice coffee house/restaurant with two floors and large windows to show how beautiful the Tagus is”.

September 2008

There are 2 terraces just above river level, one is covered.

Restaurant Marisqueira Guarda Rio
Rua da Cintura Armazem 22, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon
Antigo Pavilhão da Guarda Fiscal
Thursday, Friday and Saturday open from 11:00h/02:00h
Monday – Wednesday from 11:00/ 24:00h
Sunday from 19:00

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From this beautiful garden a marvelous view across the Alcântara harbor area to the Tagus can be enjoyed. Open from Wednesday – Sunday 10:00 – 18:00.

It’s really worth the time to wander through the sculptured garden after visiting the beautiful Museum or take a break for a drink or a lunch.

The self service restaurant inside the building serves daily plates for students and the Museum’s staff, but also as a visitor you can put together a meal of your choice to enjoy in the garden. 

Here there are great views of the port of Lisbon, the Docas (nightlife area of town) the April 25th bridge and Christo Rei statue.

Plate of the day (prato do dia): lasagna €6.50, cod fish (bacalhau) €6.50, salad €1.50.

Beautiful sculptures! View on the the Alcântara harbor, port of Lisbon cruise ships docking and the Santos area.

April 25 bridge and Christo Rei statue.

The main entrance lies on the west side of the building on the Jardim 9 de Abril .The Museum, spread through 60 rooms, has been housed since 1884 in a palace built by Count Alvor in 1690 in which the Pombal family later lived for some time. Both the name of the street and the common nickname for the museum, ‘Casa das Janelas Verdes’ (house of green windows) originate from the building’s shutters which were formerly painted green.  More…..

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga  Rua das Janelas Verdes. 

Opening hours Tuesdays: 14h00-18h00
Wednesday to Sunday: 10h00-13h00 and 14h00-18h00 (closed on Holidays)

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Mercearia Castello Cafe, a bit tucked away on a tiny street, Rua das Flores de Santa Cruz behind the Castle, opens in summertime a small outdoor seating just around the corner. Quiche and salads, coffee and toast, this cafe is a great place to stop for a snack or a light meal after visiting the Castle.

Rua Bartolomeu do Gusmão, just near the Castle. The neighborhood is very charming, it’s really nice to walk through the cobbled small streets. Costa do Castelo features some of the most spectacular viewpoints of Lisbon.

A 10 minutes walk away from this street is a great cafe/bar overlooking the river Tagus, 25 April bridge and the city, ‘O Terraço‘, spectacular views!

Rua do Espírito Santo…. normal life is going on, quietly, nobody takes attention to the tourists. This hilly part of Lisbon, located in the highest hill of the historic centre,  is one of the main historical and tourist sites.

Travessa do Funil A rainy day, February 2009. Guests of Boutique Hotel ‘Solar do Castelo’   are picked up.

 more…..  an idea to walk up the hill to the Castle

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Definitely one of the coolest bars of the city! You can get there from Rua da Costa do Castelo, the neighborhood of The Castle of St. Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge).

Sergio Curto: ‘O Terraço’ opened about two years ago, the building belongs to the government. We also serve some snacks, toast and ‘2 plates of the day’. Opening times: daily from 12:00 – 24:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 – 01:00.’  Caipirinha: € 4, Mojito € 5 , a secret recipe

Update September ‘09: ‘O Terraco’ , one of Lisbon’s beloved terrace cafés, has just closed and in a few months a new restaurant will take its place. More….

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