Unique bar ‘Pensão Amor’ (‘Love’ Guesthouse) Lisbon: former red light district, sailors, pink street & pole dance

Rua Nova do Carvalho in Lisbon, located behind the Time Out famous market & foodhall near the river Tagus, was for decades known as a street in the city’s red light district with bars named after European capitals (like Copenhagen,  Oslo or Roterdão (Rotterdam) and Jamaica bar to attract the sailors who stepped off their boats here.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: wonderful drawings on the walls of the stairs

Former red light district

‘Pensão Amor’ is located in a typical Portuguese 18th-century building. Once a cheap pension with rooms rented by the hour to prostitutes and their clients to enjoy a short moment of love 😉

Along the 5 floors of the building you can admire remake copies of old posters from burlesque shows and peep shows.

Drawing artist Mario Belem

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: burlesque decor & ceilings with frescoes

Wonderful décor

The ceilings of this former ‘guesthouse’ are painted with frescoes, the walls are covered with mirrors, paintings and old posters, and decorative pieces give the space an old burlesque, relaxed atmosphere. Amazing! The wonderful décor is recalling the history of the building.

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon: the pole dance room

Pole dance & YouTube: Marina mey

Now ‘Pensão Amor’ is one of the most popular bars in Lisbon with various spaces for events like concerts, ateliers, a book store (love/erotica), a trendy hair saloon, bars and a bar with Peruvian specialties. The pole dance room is decorated with leopard and gold. Pole dance workshops are held here to learn the tricks of seduction…

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy street in Lisbon

Area Cais do Sodré  

Nowadays this area is a hip and trendy region in Lisbon.

Rua Nova do Carvalho is a street lined with hip bars and clubs that become crowded after 2AM when the bars in the legendary area Bairro Alto start to close.

Rua Nova do Carvalho, hip and trendy pink street in Lisbon

More remarkable bars in this street:

bar/cafe Sol e Pesca, and Bar da Velha Senhora (Old Ladies Bar).

‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – Erika Reusens admires the bar in burlesque style

The bar has two entrances Rua do Alecrim 19  including an outside café terrace) and on Rua Nova do Carvalho. YouTube

Pensão Amor Art & culture, Bars | Cocktails  € 8.00, beer € 3. Facebook

Mon – Wed 12:00 – 02:00, Thu – Fri 12:00 – 04:00, Sat 18:00 – 04:00

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon – stairs to the bar

YouTube

More about the the metamorphosis of this area: Portugaldailyview & video

Looking for a short-term apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria with 30 m lovely private patio 🙂

Bar ‘Pensão Amor’ Lisbon : drawing stairs to the bar

Trendy square Intendente Lisbon: Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine’, former grandeur & a lovely hidden loveseat

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit wonderful Largo (square) do Intendente, area Mouraria, formerly a place of prostitution and drugs. Nowadays this place is very popular.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine 1 June 14

New bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon, Square Largo do Intendente 59, July 2014

Trendy place & beautiful historic buildings

Square Largo do Intendente, located in the historical area Mouraria, was for several years a place to avoid. In recent years this square has really grown into a trendy place with new cafe’s, bars and restaurants. Beautiful historic buildings, f.i. the Pombaline style, a Portuguese architectural style of the 18th century.

Lisbon Square Largo Intendente, historic area Mouraria

‘Josephine: a Portuguese bistro with an international touch’

Gary Nairn:  “Josephine Bar & Bistro was opened in June 2014. Set on a corner building at the opening of the square Intendente, it brings an ambience typical of a French bistro . But its owner Marie Odile Coudert, a French native, says it has influences from all over. Being well travelled , she has also lived in the Netherlands for nearly 10 years. She prefers to call ‘Josephine’ a Portuguese bistro with an international touch”.

Lisbon Intendente Square new bar bistro Josephine owner Marie Odile Coudaert & Gary Nairn

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’ , Square Intendente Lisbon: owner Marie Odile Coudaert & partner Gary Nairn

Gary: ” In Bistro “Josephine’ you can find at lunchtime (till 18:00) all the local basics like the traditional Portuguese sandwich,  the Prego or a Bifana (pork) as well as a sturdy “Melbourne Burger “, a choice of salads and not forgetting the daily menu. For evening a range of Quiches and all prepared as well by the French chef”.

Bar & bistro ‘Josephine’, Square Intendente Lisbon: burger, French fries and salade (11 euro). March 2017

The Prego is the most popular garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)  with mustard or piri-piri).

Lisbon Largo intendente beautiful buildings

Wonderful historical buildings! Lisbon Largo Intendente & view from Cafe/Bar Josephine

Owner Marie Odile: “What we wanted, was to create an atmosphere that would complement what was in the surrounding area. A place where you could eat simple food, hamburgers, steaks, chef quality, service orientated but at a normal price. We moved to this area nearly 4 years ago and fell in love with it, there have been many changes. Starting ‘Josephine‘ was an opportunity to be part of it all to leave my own little mark in Largo do Intendente”.

YouTube movie about area Intendente – Mouraria, historical area of Lisbon

Bar & Bistro ‘Josephine: Largo Do Intendente 59 Mouraria LisbonMetro: verde (green) stop Intendente. Facebook

Josephine Esther and Gary November 14

Gary, Esther & Josephine, November 2014:  bar & bistro ‘Josephine ‘ Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente 59

Largo do Indendente Mouraria Lisbon winter 2014 Ans ansd Loek

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon, in February

Dutch friends Ans de Graaf en Loek Polack.

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Even in wintertime it can be good weather in Lisbon with daytime temperatures that average over 15°C .

Intendente Square LOVE SEAT RoB Filipe

Square Intendente Lisbon & THE LOVESEAT created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos

Good friends & the hidden loveseat created by a famous Portuguese designer 🙂

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

The place to be for all authentic & lovely Portuguese items, quite expensive

Famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’, square Intendente Lisbon

Lovely loveseat hidden in the middle of the square 🙂

At the center of the square, there’s a wonderful wrought-iron sculpture created by local artist Joana Vasconcelos serving as a small garden, while the buildings surrounding it were renovated to house new residents and projects.

Lisbon Largo Intendente Shop 'A Vida Portuguesa' 2014

Square Largo do Intendente Lisbon & famous vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’

Top Ten most beautiful tiled façades of Lisbon

The building next to vintage shop ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ was covered with beautiful tile panels in 1865. Although originally built as a private residence, it now belongs to the Viúva Lamego ceramic factory which displays its art inside. The romantic images on the façade include potted plants and Asians recalling Portugal’s trade with the East. One of the  Top Ten façades of Lisbon.

Facebook Bairro Intendente Lisbon

Square Largo do Intendente: wonderful street art!

There’s much more streetart to admire in Lisbon..

 

Lisbon LX FACTORY: 2nd hand & hippie chic market, Arts center, cool restaurants & Madeira bread

LX FACTORY Lisbon: an abandoned industrial site has been turned into a creative, cultural and gastronomic area in restored factory buildings. Here, the past and present converge in a wonderful way!

LX factory in Lisbon: ‘big trash animals’ a series of street art

‘Let’s bring nature back to the city – join the movement’ created by Bordalo II

LX factory in Lisbon & restaurants in summertime

Built in 1846: 23.000 m2 industrial area in the Alcântara district

LX Factory Lisbon is located in the heart of the Alcântara district, a former industrial area, one of the most important manufacturing complex in Lisbon’s history. More….

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly Sunday open air market

Arts Center

In 2008, this site was transformed into an Arts Center, where numerous significant cultural events are held, nowadays one of the most visited arts centers of Lisbon.

LX factory in Lisbon March 2017 & weekly open air market

Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Every Sunday an open air market is held, selling original pieces, trendy hand-made items, 2nd hand, vintage, shoes, plants, food and much more…YouTube LX market

​Worth a visit 🙂 Video LX factory 

LX factory in Lisbon: several great restaurants & affordable prices

Lively and exciting cultural area full of art studios, bars and restaurants

Some (fashion) shops are closed at Sundays, but most restaurants and cafes are open.

A cool hangout zone!

LX factory in Lisbon: several restaurants with river view

Spectacular bookstore Ler Devagar

Restaurants, galleries, architecture, studios, terraces, music, nightclubs, art- and creative shops, fashion boutiques and a spectacular book store: Livraria ‘Ler Devagar’ (litt. read  slowly, website with a virtual tour) . Facebook

LX factory Lisbon in wintertime (January 2016)

Dictator Salazar & ’25th of April bridge’

This former factory site is located under the wonderful ‘25th of April Bridge’. In 1966 the bridge was inaugurated and named Salazar Bridge’ (Prime Minister of Portugal from 1932 to 1968). Soon after the Carnation Revolution in 1974, the bridge was renamed  ’25th of April Bridge’ (Ponte 25 de Abril)’, the day the revolution had occurred.

LX factory Lisbon: river view & ’25 April Bridge’. Retro buses: Village Underground

Great rooftop terrace & disapointing experience

The 4th floor of a former break room of factory workers was transformed in a gastropub with a curious decor and an amazing view over the river Tejo and the 25 April bridge.

Gastrobar Rio MaravilhaRua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX factory Lisbon: weekly Sunday market & Bolo do Caco

Delicious wheat bread from Madeira Island: Bolo do Caco

At the weekly Sunday market, there’s a stall and a table with chairs where you can enjoy a gastronomical treat from the Portuguese Island Madeira: Bolo do Caco, traditional bread. Delicious with f.i. just garlic butter € 4, vegetarian € 5 or prego (steak) € 8. More info

Recipe in English       Bolo do Caco YouTube     how to make garlic butter YouTube

LX factory in Lisbon & street art

LX FACTORY
Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103 Lisbon
facebook metro map (Alcantara)
Eléctrico (Tram) 15
Autocarros (Buses) 714, 727 
Weekly Sunday LX market from 11:00 -19:00. More details: Facebook

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon, fado music, Amália Rodrigues & 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more for Fado music than Lisbons historical area Mouraria.

Mouraria Calçada de Santo André balcony with flowers

Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André.

This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area.

Looking for a short term vacation apartment? My three bedroom apartment with sunny patio (30 m2) in this historic area, Mouraria).

Portuguese blues

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants.

More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes August 2007

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato.

Amália Rodrigues lived near Mouraria, one of her very famous songs: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

Amalia Rodrigues tomb Panteao Lisbon

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon.

Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

Amalia Rodrigues shop Rua Aurea 274

‘Discoteca ‘Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum  is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. Saturdays and Sundays, 4h30pm guided tour of the museum featuring the participation of fado singers of different generations.

Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

Cafe restaurant Noobai Lisbon: healthy food, great music & amazing views over the river Tagus!

What a view! Certainly one of the favorite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradouro (viewpoint) de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor.

DSC00192

Cafe Noobai, view from the wonderful terrace overlooking the Tagus River

This cafe and restaurant in Lisbon is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tagus (Tejo) river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people. You will find yourself coming back to this place every day after the first visit.

There’s a wifi connection you can use and there’s salad’s, sandwiches and soups, special teas and fresh juices. And of course caipirinha’s 🙂

Noobai cafe bar Adamastor

Noobai is excellent to cool off after a hot summer’s day. In winter you can sit with a fleece blanket on the terrace.

The owners of the place are Susana and Edy and many regular visitors are friends.

dede-noobai

‘Nu bai’

The name Noobai comes from ‘Nu bai’ which means ‘we go’ in the creole dialect from Cabo Verde, a former colony of Portugal

dj-noobai

Sometimes on Sundays there are DJ’s playing relaxed tunes on the terrace.

Noobai is good fur a lunch or to get things started before moving on to nearby bars in Bica or Bairro Alto

Lisbon Noobai hotspot Adamastor great Tagus River views

Cafe Noobai

Facebook

Noobai terrace overlooking the river Tagus near Adamastor

Mail: info@noobaicafe.com Facebook

Timetable: 12 am > 12 pm.  Sunday 12am > 8 pm. Closed on Monday.

Lissabon Noobai 16 april 2016

Café Noobai, Lisbon. April 16, 2016

A lovely place in Lisbon 🙂 Cecile Joyce and Cristine van Haalen

Gastrobar ‘Rio Maravilha’ Lisbon: disappointing experience :-( great Tagus river views & LX old factory buildings

New gastrobar Rio Maravilha (Wonderful River) is situated on the fourth floor of one of the old ‘LXfactory’ buildings in the Alcântara (‘bridge’ in Arabic) district in Lisbon, surrounded by huge windows overlooking the Tagus river, the 25 April bridge and the Cristo Rei statue .

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha LX Lisbon view Tagus river 4th floor

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha Lisbon & wonderful view 25 April bridge from a formerly factory building

Very different from the usual

We didn’t have to wait long before the friendly welcoming staff seated us at a small table near one of the the huge windows: what a wonderful view! The multi flowered designed chairs and the bright pink coloured outfits chosen for the waitresses are quite surprising.

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha LX Lisbon 4th floor flowered chairs 2

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon & the restaurant’s decor

The whole space is very different from the usual. But you can expect this from those who already are experienced of managing remarkable spaces in Lisbon like unique bar ‘Pensao Amor’ in a former red light district and restaurant ‘Casa do Pasto’ , with sophisticated Portuguese cuisine. A few months ago this place, ‘Rio Maravilha’ was opened, influenced by Brazilian flavors.

Restaurant RIO Maravilha LX Factory Lisbon 4

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon: squid salad & grilled mushrooms

We decided to order a few small dishes like Salade de Lulas (squid salad, grilled sweet potatoes, onion and croutons) € 15.60, Cogumelos na Brasa (grilled mushrooms, foliage of sour cream and chestnuts) € 13.70, Ovo BT (egg BT) € 9.80, Hambúrguer de Novilho (veal) € 9.10,  and a bottle of white wine: VB Filoco € 12.00.

Surprising : Ovo BT, a poached egg accompanied by cream cheese with some marmalade, parmesan cheese and ibérico pancetta.

Restaurant RIO Maravilha LX Factory Lisbon wonderful views

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, ‘LX factory’ Lisbon & wonderful views

Disappointing

The Hambúrguer de Novilho (veal) was not such a good experience: we ate just a little bit of it, due to the unpleasant ‘aftertaste’. According to the waitress nothing was wrong, but both we had no good feeling, also afterwards… (the restaurant is aware of our complaint, they asked to come again to enjoy a better experience, that’s all 🙁  ). BTW: the hamburger was not mentioned on our bill.

Lisbon LX Factory restaurant Rio Maravilho ambiance

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha, LX factory Lisbon, entrance & very friendly staff

Gastrobar Rio Maravilha – eating & dancing
Tuesday from 18:00 – 02:00
Wednesday u/i Saturday 12:30 – 02:00 – Sunday: 12:30 -18:00
Closed on Monday – facebook Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103

LX Factory | 4th floor, Lisbon  MORE about this area

Rooftop Restaurant & open air Bar ‘TOPO’ Lisbon square Martim Moniz: surprising menu & Wow! city views

There ‘s a gem in Lisbon with spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant view Martim Moniz Castle St George

View from restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ : square Martim Moniz Lisbon &  Castle of São Jorge

Located on the top floor of the shopping center at square Martim Moniz, this space was once a retail warehouse of Chinese products now being a modern restaurant / bar. Perfect place for  a lunch or a late afternoon with cocktails, snacks and good music.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant friendly staff Mafalda Malafaya

Mafalda Malafaya, Managing Director ‘Topo’ restaurant/bar Lisbon

The staff is wonderful, every time I return I am greeted with a big smile!

Being there for the first time, coming out of the elevator entering ‘Topo’ s space, the views are overwhelming! Everybody is making pictures before sitting down, just like I did 🙂 🙂

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant Erika lunch December 2015

Restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ near Mouraria area Lisbon: lunch with friend Erika Reusens

Also the menu is surprising: we started our lunch with Tosta Gambas alioli (toast with garlic prawns): € 6, Tártaro de novilho (calf beef tartare) € 14.00, Tártaro de atum (tuna tartare) € 12.00, bottle of white wine (Pinta Negra) € 15, small bottle of water € 1.50, coffee (bica) € 1.50. Our bill for 2 persons: € 50:00.

A small remark: I also tasted the Prego (a popular sandwich in Portugal) with tuna (€  11:00), but the bread was baked too hard and (for my taste) the french fries are too salty.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant square Martim Moniz open air bar

Restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’  near Mouraria area Lisbon & open air rooftop bar

Open air rooftop bar & restaurant area with glazed walls

The restaurant area is surrounded by walls of glass, and also a part of the open air rooftop bar is covered with sheets of transparent plastic.

Mouraria Lisbon rooftop Bar Topo February 2015

Rooftop bar ‘Topo’, Mouraria Lisbon. Picture: Marcel van Paridon

A wonderful space if you’re not scared of heights!  I am .. 🙁

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar Martim Moniz open air bar dec 15

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar & wonderful city skyline

Starting point touristic tram 28

The square you see from above in the restaurant is Praça Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and weekly markets, near the starting point of tram 28, the popular touristic tram. 

Mouraria roofbar Topo Sander Offenberg

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar. Sander Offenberg from Holland loves the city skyline 🙂 picture: Marcel van Paridon

Square Intendente – a great place, 10 minutes walk from here

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit Largo (square) do Intendente, : formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays a great place to spend time with family and friends.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant historical area Mouraria and Graca

View from bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: historic area Mouraria and the hills of Graça

From here it’s around 15 minutes to walk up the hill to visit the legendary St. George’s castle.

‘Topo’ is located quite close to my apartment in area Mouraria (where the Moors lived), the birthplace of Fado music.

5 minutes walk: my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 sunny patio (short term rentals)

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar Martim Moniz restaurant ares with city view

Bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: tastefully decorated restaurant

Dining bar

In the tastefully decorated restaurant there’s a huge dining bar from where you can admire the wonderful views.  This is one of those places where you long for to go there again!

‘TOPO’
Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Tuesday to Thursday – 12:00 to 24:00. Closed on Monday.
Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music)
Sunday – 12:00 to 24:00

E-mail: geral@topo-lisboa.pt

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Ginja liqueur in Mouraria Lisbon : tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ (first fado singer) & spontaneous fado performance

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular, also affectionally known as Ginjinha. You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. I love this little cafe in the historic area of Mouraria: ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the partly renewed and nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with friends Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
 –
Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and first fado singer of Lisbon
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & fashionable
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street nextdoor fado house
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Lisbon Mouraria Fado house Maria da Mouraria augst 14
Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2, Lisbon
Petiscos (tapas) menu for 3 persons and wine: around 90 euro
Lisbon bar ANOS 60 Festas populares Santo Antonio night June 12 15
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Mouraria Lisbon in June & June 12,

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon’s 1900s style bar Bairro Alto: curiosities and kitch, bizarre & one of a kind!

A ‘must-see’ when you visit Lisbon! Once an old grocery store, this 1900s style bar, 10 minutes walk from  Bairro Alto ‘s nightlife is really unique!

Lisbon Paviljao Chines7 bar retaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: one of the most interesting and unusual decorated bars I’ve ever seen!

A good start to Lisbon’s nightlife. You have to ring the doorbell, like in many other Portuguese places. The reason for the closed doors is that the owners want to welcome you personally.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines naked woman menu book

Erotic art: menu book bar Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

If you wish, you can buy a fine menu book with a lot of beautiful pictures and stories (20 euro) as a reminder of your visit.

Lisbon Paviljao Chines8 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines bar Lisbon

Fascinating collection of all sort of things, like lead soldiers, contemporary engravings, humorous ceramics and models of war planes.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines3

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: miniscule toy soldiers are perfectly aligned.

Walking from room to room is like going through a museum with curiosities and kitch from all over the world. It is said that only one man collected all this stuff….almost unbelievable!

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines4 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon: nothing is for sale

Once sitting down at one of the beautiful tables, the choice of drinks (nothing is for sale, except the drinks and it’s a bit expensive..) is quite large: from tea, wine, cocktails to champagne.

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines9 bar restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon

You can have a drink while listening to the jukebox playing classic rock songs from the 60’s and 70’s or play snooker, and then walk down to the  Bairro Alto and enjoy the night..

Lisbon Pavilhão Chines 10 unique bar and restaurant

Pavilhão Chines Lisbon, open from 18:00 – 02:00, smoking allowed

Address: Rua Dom Pedro V 89-91, Bairro Alto. Tel: (00351)213 424 72.

Lisbon Pavilhao Chines Bar

FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa

Fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon: fado music in Maria’s former house, first fadista & femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Avoid most of the Fado houses in area Bairro Alto; what you’ll hear has nothing to do with pure fado. You pay too much, and also the food is too overpriced! Good fado has its home in historical areas Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria’, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .

Mourara Lisbon in June Rua do Capelao Portuguese fado guitar

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities): Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria 'Casa da Maria da Severa' november 2013

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria dinner feb 14 2

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon, a part of the audience (in wintertime).

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks. We sat on one of the tables with a typical colourful tablecloth and waited for what was to come. We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm) It is a small space with ten tables, so if you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria dinner feb 14 3 Josephine e Jorge

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 25- 30 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans, a free ‘tapa’), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80 (around € 25 per person).

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , people in the street try to sing fado :-)

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon: famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in the area for 6 years.

 

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho (Portuguese fado singer & songwriter) & Maria da Mouraria

In summertime you can enjoy well-known fado performers in front of ‘Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’,(YouTube). In coordination with the Fado Museum, casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’ offers several cultural initiatives related to fado music in a completely renovated space. Film screenings, book readings and fado performers are the responsibility of Helder Moutinho.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

In summertime the terrace is open for drinks and petiscos (‘tapas’). Dining from 19:00 – 02:00. Open from Wednesdays to Sundays (Fado every day). No creditcards.

Reservations: (00351) 96 476 60 56. Facebook    Website

Mouraria Lisbon Escadinhas de São Cristóvão

Mouraria Lisbon, Escadinhas de São Cristóvão

“Dangerous neighborhood”?

Together with Alfama, Mouraria is the oldest part of Lisbon. Sometimes tourists are told this is a “dangerous ” neighborhood. But the reality is that this area is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. The Mouraria district is less touristy and therefore much purer but more impoverished. Currently, the district is gradually renovated.

Short term rentals in this neighbourhood

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with wonderful patio