Sofa Joe – Jonathan de Pas, Italy (1932-1991)

This hugely important group of works, due to the creators represented and the quality and significance of the objects brought together, has a particular coherence and intrinsic unity stemming from the direct and complementary relation between the two areas (design and fashion).

Designers of this beautiful dress: the Portuguese duo Storytailors.

MUDE is a space for all 20th and 21st century design forms, from graphic to urban, taking in fashion and equipment; from mass production to the creation of the artist. A space to considering design, researching into its holdings, developing an editorial policy, a temporary programme and educational activity that provides different spaces for the sharing of ideas. It must also, however, be a space for experimentation and creation, showing the proposals of new creators, encouraging new research and creating dialogues with the visual arts and architecture, the cinema and dance, music, science.

The unique building has a long history. Local architects Joana Vilhena and Ricardo Carvalho have left the interior in the rough state they found it, with walls, columns, and ceilings stripped of finishes. More……. A wonderful idea! It’s located in the middle of Lisbon’s historic Pombaline center. Eight floors occupy in total a floor area of appr. 14.000 m2. The renovation is still in progress.

Aristocratic elegance: Christobal Balenciaga (Spain 1895-1972)

Pierre Poulin’s (France, 1927) long sofa Amphys which can be arranged in different positions

Paco Rabanne (Spain, 1934). Calf length boots, metallised leather (1965)

Also, there’s a lot of design showpieces, wonderful movie clips and music

Design and fashion were assembled in a complementary manner, with each piece chosen through a concept-based museum dialogue, and not according to personal tastes. Comprised of furniture and small everyday objects, both unique and mass-produced, the collection reflects 20th century’s major design trends and movements.

MUDE (MUseum and DEsign) which means ‘change’ in Portuguese), Rua Augusta 24 Lisbon. Opening hours: from Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday: 10:00 am-20:00 pm
Friday and Saturday: 10:00 am-22:00 pm. Closed on Monday. You can visit the museum for free.

Thanks to Graça Rodrigues, Head of Communication & Press

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March 2009

This outdoor market is held every Sunday from 9am to 3pm (summer hours are 8am to 2pm) at Lisbon’s most famous square, near the Tagus river, with imposing arcades, close to the majestic Triumphal Arch (Arco do Triunfo), the gateway onto the interior of ‘downtown’ Lisbon.

June 2009 Carlos Lages - erotic fantasy art ‘Father of the Humanity’ , 8 euro

Manuela Nunes creates hand made jewellery (website Bijutaria Artesanal) and very beautiful recycled shopping bags (10 euro)

Fernando del Pretti - video on his blog with a wonderful vintage magnetic collection (from 2 euro) and 20th Century Portuguese magazines. Mail: ffcc15@hotmail.com

You can also see Fernando del Pretti’s work on Saturdays at the legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

June 2009

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The restaurant’s entrance and the beautiful patio of the Palácio da Independência  (Palace of Independence), located near Rossio Square on the north side of the Largo de São Domingos. The building’s foundation stone was laid in 1509 and some of Manueline details from this time can still be detected in the inner courtyard, for example the door decorations. The two conical kitchen chimneys are reminiscent of the royal palace at Sintra.

Paulo Saraiva de Reffóios (with sunglasses): “Recently I started (February 2009) this restaurant. I used to work as a hotel director for 20 years but besides I always had a real passion for Portuguese gastronomy and for many years I enjoyed cooking for friends”. “At the moment you are welcome to enjoy a (Portuguese) lunch here (June 2009), dining is possible on request from 12 persons”.

The other 2 gentlemen are José Cardoso (and daughter Filipa) and Henrique Santos, ‘Lucinda Tudo Bom’ wine producers. At the table a delicious bottle of Douro wine: Fraga Alta (High Crag) Douro Doc 2003. If you wish you can order online.

My friend Erika and Paulo Saraiva de Reffóios, the very friendly and always joking restaurant owner. Our choice for lunch: salada de rucola com requeijao (salad with cream cheese) € 8; salmão fumada com boulgour (smoked salmon with bulgur) € 12; agua (water) € 2,50; um copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 2,50; bread and delicious salted butter € 3.

If you wish you can enjoy your lunch inside of this beautiful building.

The name Palácio da Independência (’Independence Palace’) recalls a curious event that occured in 1640: a conspiracy against the Spanish occupation. If you are in Lisbon you can visit the palace each Friday, at 15:00. More…….

The walls of this former palace are decorated with beautiful azulejos (Portuguese tiles).The azulejo is a form of Portuguese painted, tin-glazed, ceramic tilework. They have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. Azulejo comes from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning polished stone.

Wherever you go in Portugal, azulejos are to be found inside and outside cafes, churches, palaces, ordinary houses and even ceilings, train- or subway stations. Many azulejos chronicle major historical and cultural aspects of Portuguese history.

‘Chaminés do Palácio’, Largo de Sao Domingos 11. chaminesdopalacio@gmail.com

Tlm (0351) 919450754

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It was given its original name of Palácio de Almada in honor of its former owner, the Count of Almada. The name Palácio da Independência (’Independent Palace’) recalls a curious event that occured in 1640. Philip II of Spain had occupied Portugal in 1580, a year later he was recognized as King of Portugal.

Entrance restaurant ‘Chaminés do Palácio’ (’the chimneys of the Palace’).
The loss of some colonies and the intense pressure of taxes levied to finance the Spanish wars led about 60 years later to a conspiracy among several of the Portuguese nobility. On December 1st, 1640 there ensued a successful rebellion, followed by the restoration of Portugal’s independence.

About 40 conspirators prepared for the action under the leadership of the Duke of Bragança (or Braganza) in the grounds of this palace.

The Duke, from who’s grandmother the royal family descended, was crowned João IV, King of Portugal. From a neighboring monastery the nobles reached the palace garden from across part of the old 14th C. city wall and gathered there in a small, isolated pavillion. It has even been suggested that there was an underground path linking the garden with the Baixa along which people could pass unseen.

Beautiful azulejos (tiles) representing the story of the conspiracy

The building’s foundation stone was laid in 1509 and some of Manueline details from this time can still be detected in the inner courtyard, for example the door decorations. Two conical kitchen chimneys are reminiscent of the royal palace at Sintra.

The Sociedade Historica da Independência de Portugal has its seat in this Palace. This society has awarded itself the task of keeping alive the memory of the happenings of December 1st, 1640 and the general consciousness of Portugal’s national history.

Ana Maria Proserpio, Directora dos Serviços Culturais (Director of Portuguese Cultural Services). In Ana Maria’s hand the keys of the palace. If you are in Lisbon you can visit the palace each Friday, at 15:00.

Every year on December 1st official memorial events take place both in the Palácio da Independência and at the Praça dos Restauradores

Palácio da Independência
Largo de São Domingos, 11
1150-320 Lisboa

Phone: 21 324 14 70 Email: ship.geral@ship.pt

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Famous poster ‘the kiss’. As the couple leans together for a kiss, playful cupid offers them a glass of Ramos Pinto Port instead. ‘The kiss’ is one of the most recognized wine posters in the world. Founder of this Port House, Adriano Ramos Pinto, strongly believed in promotion both in Portugal and his primary market, Brazil. He backed his product with well-planned sales drive based on artistic advertisements.

The Napoleão wine shops, existing for more than 50 years in Lisbon, are specialised in the best Portuguese wines and Port wines. They can explain you all about the best Vintage years of the 20th Century.

You can taste the Port Wines for free and appreciate an exemplary service.

”Of course, all the vintage years are very good, but some years are exceptional compared with the others”.

Website Napoleão, Rua dos Fanqueiros, 70, Lisbon, world wide delivery. A new store of the Napoleão family (in the same street). Besides: they also sell Portuguese wines like Vinho Verde, Aguardentes (similar to Cognac, Schnapps or Grappa) and the legendary wild Cherries Liqueur Ginja or Ginjinha. Famous small Ginjinha bar in Lisbon, Rossio 

If you wish, you can order via their website.

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Maria de Jesus Silva. The shop opened in 1930 under the name ‘Mercearia do Minho’and changed it’s name to Conserveira de Lisboa in 1942. In the beginning days the company sold all kinds of alimentation, concentrating on canned foods.

Luís Vieira. In 1942 the company applied for the registration of the first two brands of conserves: TRICANA and PRATO DO MAR. Tricana was registered in 1948 and Prata do Mar in 1956.

Macquerel (filetes de cavala), tunny (atum), squid (polvo) and cod (bacalhau).

During the second world war the industry of conserved fish products developed rapidly and it helped the company to evolve quickly, reaching it’s peak with the colonial war in ‘74. After this period, the conserves market shrinked steadily, frozen food became a more common way of conservation.

Confronted with this perspective of a further declining market, the Conserveira chose to remain operating on this niche market and offer only quality products. This way the shop also survived the agressive low prices by the supermarkets.

 Two nice ladies in the shop are wrapping the various preserves: Manuela Pereira….

…..and Maria Manuela Henriques Nunes

I bought 4 cans: 2 fillets macquerel (€ 4,54) and 2 tummy fillets (€ 3,63). Happily no plastic bags! If you like you can write a nice note in the guestbook.

In June 2004 Armando Jose Cabral Ferreira and Regina Maria da Silva Monteiro Baptista Cabral Ferreira became the owners of the shop.

Conserveira de Lisboa,  Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34 (’street of the cod fish sellers’……). More…

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The entrance to the Rua dos Sapateiros is spanned by the decorative arch Arco do Bandeiro. This bears the name of the wealthy sponsor Pires Bandeiro who commissioned it at the end of the 18th C.

Passing through the arched gateway on Rossio you see one of Lisbon’s remaining examples of Art Nouveau: this old movie house, the Animatógrafo , is a strip club nowadays. Lisbon’s earliest cinema hall opened in 1907, by brothers Ernesto and Joaquim Correia Cardoso. It has remained unaltered since then. The beautiful facade is adorned with a highly detailed Art Nouveau style, which consists of Azulejos tiled panels, which depict Edwardian styled females surrounded by fruits and flowers.

It was not easy to make a picture without snapping visitors going in and out, because this beautiful house is rather popular…..

Restaurant ‘Adega da Mo‘, a typical Portuguese restaurant . Almoçar (lunch): Picanha, (meat from Brazil) is generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) is much better than a steak, meltin-in-your mouth…. € 7.50, a glass of red wine (€ o.50)

Restaurant ‘O Arco‘, Rua dos Sapateiros 161. Every day a new buffet menu for only € 6. Traditional Portguese food including soup, chicken, meat, fish, vegetables and salad.

Joao Paulo Antunes in front of Restaurant ‘O Arco’.

Another beautiful example of Portuguese Art Nouveau in this street is Leitaria ‘A Camponeza’

Rua dos Sapateiros, February 2009.

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This is an old-fashioned Leitaria, specializing in milk products and pastries, whose blue-tiled walls display bucolic scenes. One of my favorite cafes: the atmosphere, the kind of people….mostly Purtuguese, drinking a bica (strong coffee) or a tea (chá) while reading a newspaper.

This house is for over 100 years in the same family: Ana Claudia Diogo (r) and her niece Filipa Indias.

Ana Diogo’s grand grand father, José Domingos Diogo, built this place (pictures of the family are hanging on the wall), from origin a milkshop, in Portuguese ‘Art Nouveau’ style and beautiful tiles (azulejos). The café was recently renovated, but with care….

Chá (tea) in a pot (in style) 1,20 euro. The coffee, cakes, and sandwiches are all good.

The cafe ” Leitaria A Camponeza” is open from 07:45 – 19:00, closed on Sundays

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The interior of ‘Santos Ofícios‘ was submitted to a very careful work of reconstruction, which made possible to show arches of an old brick that draw a cross and also to preserve an entire wall of tiles made at that time in the ‘Rato’ factory.

Inside this historical place handworks made of different materials are displayed: stone, clay, metal, corn, wood,  cork, wool, cotton, paper, jute, straw…. Traveling all over the country, from the North to the South the owners of the shop, mrs. Louisa Cruz and mr. Homero Cardoso, visited hidden villages and they have been able to meet dozens and dozens of folk artists.

Not only the famous artists like Irmãs Flores and the descendants of Rosa Ramalho, Mistério and Ana Baraca, but also those who have never left their villages and were completely unknown. Website shop ‘Santos Ofícios‘ with more art items including a list of  Portuguese folk artists.

Unfortunately some folk artists are already deceased and couldn’t leave followers, but thanks to a continous work of research the owners of Santos Ofícios have been able to meet and divulge other ones. In this branch of the Portuguese culture – the Folk Art – that is displayed with dignity in ‘Santos Ofícios’, the only place in Lisbon that insists on keeping, in this area, a standard of rigour intimately tied to the concept of ‘tradition’.

‘Santos Ofícios‘, open 10 am to 8 pm daily, except on Sunday. Rua da Madalena no. 87, Lisbon, opposite Madalena church

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Philippe Do Rosario and his wife Marie-Aude give personalized advices. You can try a free taste of different Port Wines and of a white, rosé or red wine every day including information about the Portuguese vineyard (20-45 min). Also for groups (with reservation).

Update: this wine store closed definitively on Oct. 24, 2009. Philippe Do Rosario and Marie-Aude decided to move to France. The website will stay online in order to ship wines all over Europe.

Philippe Do Rosario in his shop ADIVINHO with wines of every Portuguese region. The wines are kept in the best conditions (air-conditioned and ideal luminosity).

During the presentations, several subjects will be evocated like the Portuguese viticulture history, the weather, the soils, the grape varieties, the different denominations and also the viticultural sector’s importance for the Portuguese economy. Languages spoken: Portuguese, English, French, Spanish, Deutsch and Italian.

Tasting of wines, Port wines, Moscatel, Ginja… with Portuguese cheeses and ham.

Marie-Aude, whose parents are wine producers in a wine region in France, studied agronomy and oenology, developping very early a real passion for the wines. Philippe studied economy, worked in a bank and discovered the wines with Marie-Aude.

ADIVINHO is open from Monday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7.30 pm.
info@adivinho.com.  (00351) 218 860 419.

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