Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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Kiosk Camões Square (Praça Luís de Camões)

Just behind Camões’ statue , close to the statue of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935),  still mobbed by many tourists nowadays ; nearby great city views from luxury hotel Bairro Alto’s roof terrace  and, one of my favorites, a cheap and traditional Portuguese restaurant ‘Casa da India’.

Small kiosk Park Principe Real

After shopping people like to take a break in this wonderful park with lots of exotic plants and trees, near Bairro Alto, posssibly one of the best (and gay) spots in Europe for a night out! Recommended: Les Mauvais Garçons , popular and ”très-chic” cafe/restaurant.  

Nearby you’ll find the  Botanical garden , one of Europe’s finest.

Kiosk Rua Dom Pedro

Rua Dom Pedro V  is a wonderful avenue for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

Kiosk Largo Trindade Coelho

Small kiosk near ‘Casa da Comida’ (’ the house of food’), a new cafetaria/ restaurant in the wonderful bamboo garden of Museum São Roque. This museum and church is home to Italian art from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Small kiosk Cais do Sodré

A major bus station is sited outside the front of the Cais do Sodré station, with a Carris small kiosk selling transport passes, tickets and guides.

On the background a glimpse of Restaurant Marisqueira ‘Guarda Rio’, overlooking the river Tagus. The marisqueira (seafood) is unfailingly fresh

Cais do Sodré  is Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation (‘Linha de Cascais’ , name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais), and ferry terminal. Recommended: beach Restaurant Peixenalinha São Pedro do Estoril

Wonderful 20 minutes ferry trip idea from here : ferry to Cacilhas at the other side of the river Tagus and how to reach the amazing Cristo Rei monument

Viewpont Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara.

This wonderful belvedere will give you a unique insight into the city and magnificent views on the old Moorish castle Castelo de São Jorge.

Kiosk above Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra .  

The Moorish influence is still present in Alfama and in Mouraria, where the Moors kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. Authentic 3-bedroom apartment with patio for rent in this old Moorish quarter

After browsing the market it’s a good idea to have lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao de Santa Clara’  just above the market, serving real Portuguese food for a good price.

‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon overlooking the Tagus river, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina.

From this vista point you have the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, nearby my favorite cafe/bar Noobai 

Kiosk Rua de São Paulo, near Cais do Sodré  station and, on the other side of the road,  Mercado da Ribeira (famous market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome.

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“” Passeio o seu cão de saquinho na mão!” ‘Take your dog for a walk with a poop bag in your   hand!”

I saw this funny poster near one of my favorite places in Lisbon,  Miradouro da Graça. a splendid viewpoint offering a panoramic view of the castle and central Lisbon. The open-air cafe and its relaxing atmosphere is a favorite with young locals, especially in late afternoon. During the summer it remains open well into the night.

Home made coats… Feira da Ladra, Lisbons’ legendary flea market in wintertime (about 18 degrees C…..)

This one has very sad eyes….near the church in Rosssio, close to Palácio da Independência (Palace of Independece) and the famous small  ‘A Ginjinha’ cafe.

Rua da Costa do Castelo, walking up to the old castelo São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), located on the highest of the seven hills of the historic center of the city.

Alfama, at lunch time (almoço). The most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.   I manage to get lost every time I walk there…! It’s still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog….

One of my favourite places and of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradoura de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor. This bar and restaurant is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tejo river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people.

Picture: haiamisa

In Lisbon there are many beggars on the streets. Sadly enough some of them use animals and many tourists give money to this boy. The dog doesn’t look very happy on the street in the heat of the summer……you’ll find him ‘working’ in the city center Baixa.

Praça Dom Pedro IV  at Christmas time 2009

Portuguese Water Dog (picture: Chicago Tribune)

Obama’s daughter Malia walks the First Family’s new puppy, Bo, on the grounds of the White House.

So far, I never saw a Portuguese ‘Water Dog’ in Lisbon…… But maybe Obama bought him because these very smart dogs were often taken with sailors during  the overseas Portuguese discoveries ? 

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‘Hot and good, a dozen for € 2“. Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Saint Martin Day, is celebrated on November 11. It is called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin summer). The Portuguese celebrate it with jeropiga (a sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

Baixa Lisbon, December 17, 2008

Traditions dictates that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire, where they roast chestnuts and drink água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (’firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent alcohol).

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chadio, Lisbon December 2008

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Mouraria, December 2008, church near Praça Martim Moniz

Rossio, November 23rd. A children’s choir singing Christmas carols (Janeiras).

Lisbon, November 22nd (picture: Getty). Fireworks light up the sky during the lighting ceremony of Lisbon’s Christmas tree placed at Eduardo VII Park in downtown Lisbon. This giant 44 metre Christmas tree is decorated with more than 1.6 million lights.

Tradition: Students (try to) sing a Christmas Carol in the streets and ask for money..

A woman, also dressed in black, is asking for money too….. and there’s a lot of poor people begging on the streets of Lisbon, not only at Christmas time….

Praca Dom Pedro IV (Rossio), beautiful ‘wave’ pavement

On Christmas Eve , December 24, mosts restaurants are closed from lunchtime. Families gather around the Christmas tree. Many attend the Midnight Mass (Missa do Galo). After mass they gather around the table and have supper (Ceia de Natal).

At the night of December 31, thousands of people gather near the waterfront of the Tagus River at Praça do Comércio, to welcome the new year. In the best of Portuguese traditions, a shower of light and colour will flood Lisbon’s most famous square, with a fireworks display to the sound of the twelve gongs. From 22:00 there’s a stage with live concerts with famous Portuguese names like Sérgio Godinho, considered as one of the most influential popular musicians in Portugal. There will be plenty of entertainment at the bars. Also in Parque das Nações there is a fireworks show near the river. The festivities continue non-stop at Casino Lisboa (Alamedo dos Oceanos), with musical concerts at the Arena Lounge (above 18 free entry).

Until January 6 (Dia de Reis) the surrounding area will feature a variety of entertainment inlcuding musical shows for the whole family.

Feliz Natal! (Happy New Year!). A traditional dessert is Bolo Rei (Kings’ cake). This fruitcake is a typically New Years cake, but is becoming popular during Christmas Holidays. In the cake there are two surprises: one is a little present, the other one is not welcomed: a raw broad bean. Whoever gets this bean has to buy the Bolo Rei in the coming year.

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Christmas window dressing Largo do Chiado

Christmas window dressing  Rua da Prata

Hermés, December 2008, Largo do Chiado 9, Lisbon

Baixa area

Luxury food shop: shop Manteigaria Silva, Rua D. Antao de Almada 1-C and D

Besides: Jingle bells! Even trams (Electrico Natal) are decorated with lights and steered by Santa Claus himself!

‘Feliz Natal’ (Merry Christmas!).

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Metro entrance Baixo-Chiado, Rua do Crucifixo. This station is one of the most important transfer stations, and one of the most crowded of Lisbon. New is the extension towards the Santa Apolónia train station, opening on 19 December 2007, more than five years late due to tunnelling problems at the waterfront.

Beautiful white tiles are covering the station walls. This metro station has an entrance in the city centre as well as one at a much higher level in the Chiado district, linked by a series of escalators.

Instead of walking (hundreds of stairs from Baixa to Chiado), an alternative and free way is to use the escalators inside the metro station, reaching the Chiado district ca. 5 minutes later. Of course, walking is also interesting…..

The Lisbon Metro operates from 6h30 to 01.00. Single ticket – EUR 0.75, 10 rides – EUR 6.90.

Metropolitano de Lisboa : Lisbon Metro official page. On this webste (also in English) you’ll find a map with a network diagram and explanation of the lines: Metro Linha Azul (blue line) Metro Linha Amarela (yellow line) Metro Linha Verde (green line) and Metro Linha Vermelha (red line). Also    including a special section on subway art of Lisbon Metro stations with stunning examples of contemporary azulejo tilework.

Metro Station Baixa-Chiado, escalators up to the Chaido district.

cafe ‘A Brasileira’, Largo do Chiado, near the entrance of the Chiado metro station.

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Pessoa was largely unknown in Portugal until after his death in 1935. The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists, all day long! Enjoying a coffee we took pictures..

…..5 minutes later….

…….10 minutes later….

….15 minutes later……

‘The best way to travel is to feel’ Pessoa wrote, ’so feel everything in every possible way.’Pessoa was born in Lisbon in a flat in Largo de São Carlos (1888). Apart from his high school years which he spent with his mother and half brothers in South Africa, he lived in Lisbon without a break, without taking public holidays, without travelling abroad.He did so with the help of heteronyms, inventing many lives (and cities) out of his own, spent between the Chiado area, where he lived, the Baixa where he was a commercial translator, and the cafes (like Cafe Martinho da Arcada, Praça do Comércio 37) where he wrote and drank a lot and died in 1935, aged 47.

Casa (house) Fernando Pessoa, Rua Coelho da Rocha, 16, Campo de Ourique. Open from Monday – Saturday 10:00-18:00.

Drawing of Fernando Pessoa, Travessa do Sequiero Lisbon, December 2008.

“Acordar”, poem by Álvaro de Campos, one of Fernando Pessoa’s various ‘heteronyms’ (imaginary characters).

“Acordar da cidade de Lisboa mais tarde do que as outras
Acordar da Rua do Ouro
Acordar do Rossio, as portas dos cafés
Acordar…..
E no meio de tudo a gare, que nunca dorme
Como um coração que tem que pulsar através de vigilia e do sono”

“The waking up of Lisbon, later than other cities
The waking up of Rua do Ouro
The waking up of Rossio Square, at the doors of its cafes
Waking up…..
And in the middle of it all the train station, which never rests
Like a heart that has to beat in both waking and sleeping hours”

Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, April 2009

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Praça do Comércio: friendly policemen show the right way to visitors. 

Near Square Praça do Comércio (follow Rua do Arsenal) is Lisbon’s City Hall (Câmara Municipal), Praça do Município. Visitors can admire the interior on Sunday mornings. The building, with a Neo-Classical facade, was built in 1774 but was completely burned down in 1863. In 1875 the current building was completed.

Baxia: Rua da Conceiçao, with unique buildings and….

…..also unique: in Lisbon there’s still a few proffesional scissors-grinders.   

Baixa area comprises the grid of streets north of the Praça do Comércio, roughly between the Cais do Sodré and the Alfama district beneath the Lisbon Castle ‘Saint George (São Jorge) and extends northwards towards the Rossio- and Figueira squares and the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue)

Rua Nova de Almada, close to Rua Garret, Lisbons’ famous (shopping) street.

Besides: Marquis de Pombals’ statue is on Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue), on the night of June 12 (no cars!), awaiting the famous yearly Santo Antionio costume Parade. All the clubs and associations of Lisbons’ neighbourhoods descend on Avenida da Liberdade to compete for the best parade, music, costume and choreography. More….

Map Baixa 

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‘Ask me’ kiosk in Rua Augusta, near Praça do Comércio.

The beautiful Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) is located near the Tagus River and still commonly known as Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square), because it was the location of the Royal Ribeira Palace (Paços da Ribeira). After the great 1755 Lisbon Earthquake, the square was completely remodelled.

This new (2008) Lisboa ‘Ask Me’ Center (Praça do Comércio, phone 00351 21 0312815), is open from 09:00 – 20:00 daily. The Lisbon Gay & Lesbian Guide is available as well. Smaller ‘Ask Me’ kiosks are dotted about the Rossio district, the Portela airport of Lisbon and at Santa Apolonia train station.

Praça do Comércio, April 2007. The statue is King José I, who oversaw the rebuilding of Lisbon, after the great 1755 Lisbon Earthquake.

Lisboa Card

The Lisboa Card offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €14.85 / €7.50), 48 hour (€25.50 / €12.75) and 72 hour (€31.00 / €15.50) denominations. They are not very good value unless you plan to visit a lot of museums. Especially so if you are a holder of a student identification card (international or national) since the student discounts to these attractions are often the same as for the Lisboa Card.

http://www.askmelisboa.com/en

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