Largo do Carmo, March 2010

This picturesque square is a very popular tourist attraction, well known for the terraces, in addition to being the scene of several shootings, both (science fiction) films or documentaries and commercials. Music and traditional dance are performed here during the summer.

A unique fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the square. The Chafariz (fountain) do Carmo was built here in 1796.

Largo do Carmo and blossoming jacarandas.

Originally from South America, these beautiful trees of the Bignoniaceae family arrived in Lisbon in the mid-17th century and ever since, between May and June when they’re in flower, they have lovely bunches of lilac-toned petals.

The headquarters of Carmo (Quartel do Carmo) is a very important building for Portugal’s history. Marcelo Caetano (former dictator António de Oliveira Salazar’s replacer) found refuge in the main Lisbon military police station at the time of the revolution. On April 25, 1974, the day of  the Carnation Revolution, this building was surrounded by the MFA (Portuguese Armed Forces), which pressured Marcelo Caetano to cede power to general Spínola. It was here where the Estado Novo (New Regime) officially came to an end after almost 50 years. More..

The Carnation Revolution (Revolução dos Cravos) was a largely bloodless coup. Remarkable: there were two secret signals in the military coup: first the airing of the song “E depois do adeus” (”And after the farewell”) by Paulo de Carvalho, Portugal’s entry in the 6th of April 1974 Eurovision Song Contest, which alerted the rebel captains and soldiers to begin the coup. Next, on April 25, 1974 at 12:15 am, the national radio broadcast Grândola, Vila Morena, a song by Zeca Afonso, a progressive folk singer forbidden on Portuguese radio at the time. This was the signal that the MFA gave to take over strategic points of power in the country and “announced” that the revolution had started. More details, videos and songs on Joana Morais’ blogspot

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‘Vai Tu’  is a local community group. This neighborhood café is popular with locals who gather to sing along, located in Bica, close to the Bairro Alto area.

You won’t always find the best fadistas, but don’t let that scare you off. This is real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle, where the fado singers can enter spontaneously and improvise.

Every Sunday evening  fado singers and dinner from 20:00 – 24:00. No professional waiters, it’s a volonteer job. The traditional Portuguese food is simple, cheap but good (ca. 5 euro pp), a bottle of wine cost 5 euro.  The atmosphere is very relaxed and it’s a mix of young and old.

This singer is over 80 years old…Vai Tu’ provides a unique window into classic fado popular culture. YouTube

On the wall the legendary painting of Maria Severa

Fadistas often wear a black shawl of mourning as the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando did after her passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. She died at age of 26 in 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Grupo Excursionista ‘Vai Tu’ , Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 6-8  , a very picturesque small street with perhaps Lisbon’s most photographed funicular.

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March 2010, a cloudy day..

The roof terrace, giving long views over the river and the city, is very popular. The hotel is on the arty side of town, located in the ancient quarter (Bairro Alto)  and Chiado, a nice traditional area and an elegant shopping district.

Strechted out on one of the chairs, you can watch night fall while savouring a glass of wine… A lunch is also available, but don’t expect a typical Portuguese lunch: ‘just light snacks’, according to the very friendly waiter.

Caesar salad (€12.50), sandwich (€9.50). Glass of white wine (€5.00). We liked the food but we were still a bit hungry   mixed cheese platter (€12.00)

The other side of the River Tagus and the famous Cristo Rei Statue… How to get there?

Chiado city view. Nearby the hotel: cafe ‘A Brasileira’ and the statue in bronze of Portugals famous poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935), once a regular customer, still mobbed by lots of tourists…

The 1845 building of hotel Bairro Alto started life as the Grand Hotel of Europe. It became a favourite haunt for writers and artists. Its 18th-century façade forms part of the historical Luis de Camões square, named after a very famous Portuguese poet.

Square Praça Luís de Camões . On the background Hotel Bairro Alto. The location is perfect for sightseeing and nightlife.  Bairro Alto by night

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Camões Square (Praça Luís de Camões), just behind Camões’ statue , close to the statue of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Pessoa (1888-1935),  still mobbed by many tourists nowadays and a good, cheap and traditional Portuguese restaurant ‘Casa da India’.

Park Principe Real

After shopping people like to take a break in this wonderful park with lots of exotic plants and trees, near Bairro Alto, posssibly one of the best (and gay) spots in Europe for a night out! Les Mauvais Garçons , popular and ”très-chic” cafe/restaurant.  

Nearby you’ll find the  Botanical garden , one of Europe’s finest.

Kiosk Rua Dom Pedro

Rua Dom Pedro V  is a wonderful avenue for shopping. There’s lots of boutiques, traditional antique shops and art galleries.

 Largo Trindade Coelho

Small kiosk near ‘Casa da Comida’ (’ the house of food’), a new cafetaria/ restaurant in the wonderful bamboo garden of Museum São Roque. This museum and church is home to Italian art from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Cais do Sodré

Cais do Sodré  is Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation ( ‘Linha de Cascais’  name of the train line joining Lisbon to Cascais) and ferry terminal. A major bus station is sited outside the front of the Cais do Sodré station, with a Carris  small kiosk selling transport passes, tickets and guides.

On the background Restaurant Marisqueira ‘Guarda Rio’, overlooking the river Tagus, the marisqueira (seafood) is unfailingly fresh!

Viewpont Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This wonderful belvedere will give you a unique insight into the city and magnificent views on the old Moorish castle Castelo de São Jorge.

Above Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra .  The Moorish influence is still present in Alfama and in Mouraria, where the Moors kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. Authentic 3-bedroom apartment with patio for rent in this old Moorish quarter

After browsing the market it’s a good idea to have lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao de Santa Clara’  just above the market, serving real Portugese food for a good price.

‘Adamastor’, a popular gathering place in Lisbon overlooking the Tagus river, which is officially called the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. From this vista point you have the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, nearby my favorite cafe/bar Noobai 

Kiosk Rua de São Paulo, near Cais do Sodré  station and, on the other side of the road,  Mercado da Ribeira (famous market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome.

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‘Borrego no forno’ (lamb in oven € 6,50). Starters: pão e azeitonas (bread and olives € 1,20), copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine € 1.00), bica pingada (espresso with a drop of milk € 0,55). 

This is one of my favorite restaurants in Lisbon: really good service and a very friendly staff.

Owner Alvaro Martim: ‘From 1938 this place is a restaurant. All I know is that it used to be a shop selling spices from India”.

The Casa da Índia was established in Lisbon around 1500. This Portuguese organization had been based in Lagos in Southern Portugal, but after Prince Henry the Navigator died in 1460, the ‘House of India’ moved to Lisbon, and was located at the Terreiro do Paço (better known as the famous Praça do Comércio , Commerce Square). The building was destroyed by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.

Gambas á guilho (garlic prawns) 12.50 euro, delicious! This restaurant is very popular and lively,  the marisqueira (seafood) is divine and cheap.

Portugal probably is the best place in Europe to enjoy seafood; the Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well!

On the wall: the Duke of Viseu (Henry the Navigator), patron of the Portuguese exploration. During 1415-1542 Portugal discovered an eastern route to India that rounded the Cape of Good Hope, they discovered Brazil, established trading routes throughout most of southerns Asia, colonized selected areas of Africa and sent the first direct European maritime trade and diplomatic missions to China.

Restaurant ‘Casa da Índia’, Rua Loreto 51, near Bairro Alto. Opening hours: Monday -Saturday: 09:00 – 02:00. Closed on Sundays.

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Restaurant ‘O Fogareiro’ (The Stove) is located Rua da Atalaia 92, Lisbon

Try the traditional Portuguese gastronomy like their house specialties Bacalhau à Minhota (cod fish), Polvo á Lagareiro (grilled octopus), Arroz de Marisco (Portuguese seafood risotto), or ‘Bife A Fogareiro’.

Owner Francisco Barros preparing ‘Lombinho de Porco grelhados’ (porc), € 7,70

Rua Atalaia, Bairro Alto more…..

My choice for dinner: espetada con carne (delicious grilled meat on a stick, served with french-fried potatoes and dry rice) € 7.20, salade de tomates € 4.50, (tomato salad), copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1,80 , small bottle of water (agua) € 0,70.

Bottle of ‘house’ wine (vinho da casa): € 5.50 (really good): ‘Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo Vinho Regional Beira

Owner Manuel Dias: “Together with my friend Francisco Barros and his wife Maria we opened this restaurant 16 years ago; we still like it! You are very welcome, except on Sundays”.

At work in the small kitchen: Maria Barros (owner) and Alice Cerqueira

Rua da Atalaia in June 2009

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In January 2009 ‘Casa da Comida’ (’ the house of food’) opened a new cafetaria/ restaurant in the wonderful new bamboo garden of Museum São Roque, just a few steps away from Bairro Alto (a legendary old neighborhood in Lisbon’s historical center). This museum and church is home to Italian art from the 16th and 17th centuries.

The new restaurant/cafetaria is located near one of Lisbon’s most interesting churches: Igreja São Roque (Church of Saint Roch), the earliest Jesuit church in the Portuguese world with its magnificent baroque interior and the Museum São Roque : Museum de Arte Sacra (Sacred Art), one of the oldest art museums in Portugal, housed in the former ‘Misericórdia’ old people’s home and orphanage. After (or before) your visit to the church and the Museum (€ 2,50), it’s a good idea to enjoy a coffee, a light lunch or an afternoon tea in this wonderful and quiet inner-garden.

At the entrance of the Museum the receptionist will open the door for you, but it’s not necessary to buy a ticket. There’s a varied menu, and in wintertime you can also sit inside the restaurant to eat or relax.

The atmosphere is perfect for a leisury lunch. We ordered Carpaccio de carne (meat €  8.00), salade de atum (tunny € 6.00), a salade with goat-cheese (cabra € 8.00), agua (water € 1.50) and 2 glasses of (delicious) Planalto Douro wine (€ 5.00, bottle € 10.00). Coffee € 0,90.

Thanks Manuel Silva, muito obrigada for your perfect service!

Largo Trindade Coelho

Restaurant/Cafetaria ‘Casa da Comida’, Lisbon cafetariasaoroque@casadacomida.pt  (00351) 21 323 54 46. Open: Tuesday – Sunday from 10:00 – 18:00.  (On Sundays a lot of restaurants are closed in Lisbon). Thursday 14:00 – 21:00.

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They serve delicious Spanish dishes like gaspacho and tortilhas, Italian (lasagna, spaguetti, also vegetarian) and Portuguese dishes inspired by the French cuisine.

The charismatic owner David García González was born in Spain, lived in France and about 3 years ago he moved to Lisbon.

Besides: trendy 2 bedroom apartment for rent in this area . After going out on an evening, you won’t need to think about organising transport home. 

Our choice: salada salmão e chevre (salad with salmon and chevre, 11 euro) and tourte au canard (10.50). Glass of wine (2.00) , Caipirinha (6.00).

The cafe in the afternoon. You can relax in the deep leather armchairs, or bring your laptop (wi-fi internet connection). Try their Portuguese cakes: tarte de maçã com gelado de baunilha or bolo de dois chocolates.

Les Mauvais Garçons (the bad boys). Rua da Rosa 39, open from 12:00 to 24:00. Les Suites Du Bairro Alto

Rua da Rosa in the afternoon. Lisbon’s nightlife in Bairro Alto

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‘A Camponesa’ is located in Santa Catarina near Bairro Alto ’s nightlife, 5 minutes walk from miradouro (view spot) Santa Catarina with spectacular views across the River Tejo to the 25 April Bridge and the Cristo Rei statue.

We had a very nice time, enjoyed our meal (with 7 people), including starters and 2 bottles of good Portuguese wine (Pegões, € 5 a bottle). The bill? € 105.80.

Try their own recipe ‘Picanha no forno’ (oven-roasted meat), € 10,50. Picanha (meat from Brazil) is generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh) is much better than a steak, meltin -in-your mouth !

Célia Pinheiro, Miguel Ferreira (owners of ‘A Camponesa’) and Nadia Morais (a niece) enjoying a delicious ’sopa de peixe’ (fish soup), just before the restaurant opens at 20:00. Sometimes a lot of friends join them, they all like Miguel’s cooking, inspired by traditional Portuguese dishes!

Miguel Ferreira: “For many years I worked as a journalist in Lisbon, but besides I always had a real passion for cooking. My wife used to work as a commercial sales specialist for Unilever. We have 2 daughters, it was a stressfull life. About 4 years ago we decided to start all over again: we opened restaurant ‘A Camponesa’. It was a huge risk, but now we are very happy!”

Restaurant ‘A Camponesa de Santa Catarina’, Rua Marechal Saldana, 23/25, Lisbon. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday. Saturday: open for dinner. Closed on Sundays. Phone: 00351 213464791.

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This distinctive 2 bedroom, 2nd floor, 70 m2 apartment is right in the heart of the vibrant Bairro Alto – undoubtedly Lisbon’s first choice for the best restaurants, bars, galleries and alternative boutique shops.

View from the balcony: nightlife Rua da Atalaia, June 2009 Bairro Alto

No need for transport, this attractive apartment has everything on its doorstep.

Set in a historic and solid 200 year-old building, the apartment is stylish in design -
mixing rich velvet textures and retro chic with contemporary touches. The front of the building features two pretty wrought-iron verandas with plants that branch out over the cobbled street of restaurants and charming boutiques below. Inside has lots of natural light, high ceilings and mahogany wooden flooring. You really feel you’re in Lisbon!

There are two spacious and comfortable bedrooms, each with a double bed and quality mattress. One of the bedrooms is quiet at the back of the building. The apartment encompasses all the facilities of a comfortable abode. The fully equipped kitchen has a large fridge, microwave, toaster, cooker and a breakfast table.

The living room is an inviting and lovely space. There is also a TV, DVD Playstation and sound-system. The chaise-lounge can sleep a fifth person.

Prices
70 euros per night for 2 people,
90 euros per night for 3 people,
100 euros per night for 4 people.
If the sofabed is required for a 5th person, the price is 115 euros per night.
Cleaning fee is 40 euros. Bedlinen and towels included. Unlimited high-speed wi-fi is included.
Minimum stay is three nights. 10% discount: for stays of 7 nights or more.

Bairro Alto , Rua da Atalaia nightlife

Mail to rplews3@yahoo.co.uk or thelisbonconnection@gmail.com . Reservation with contract and cancellation conditions.

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