Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights: parades, sardines and party time! (Festas de Lisboa in Mouraria).

The restaurant’s open kitchen: Marisa, Rui, Laurinda, Paula and Virgilio, the cook, preparing my lunch

Delicious almoço (lunch)! Bifinhos ao alinho (garlic steak), 4 pieces (meio dose!) € 11, 50. If you are not too hungry ask for ‘meio dose’ (half serving). Small bottle of water (agua) € 1, 50, a glass of good wine € 1.00, half bottle of red wine ( jarro) € 4, cafe € 0.75, desert (sobremesa) from €  2.50

Together with Alfama, the Mouraria area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria, has only begun recently.

Also delicious: Picanha (pick-ahn-yeh, for 2 persons, € 14. 50), a Brazilian cut of beef, generally considered to be the number one cut, even better than beef fillet. There’s much more on the menu, like Bacalhau na Brasa (codfish) or Caldeirada de peixe (Portuguese fish stew).

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square , is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Mouraria, Largo da Severa, named after the first Fado singer in Lisbon

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music than Mouraria. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Amália Rodrigues, (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria. Maria Severa  is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly.

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After the city of Lisbon was hit by an outbreak of cholera in 1833, causing thousands of deaths,  it was urgent to create a large cemetery for both rich and poorer victims. It has the weird name of  Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’, called after the nearby neighborhood (Prazeres) with the same name. Many of its tombs are big mausoleums, some with the size of small chapels.

Once you enter the cemetery the sound of the city fades and the tranquility overwhelms you. Beautiful trees, a strange atmosphere and joyful singing of birds. You imagine yourself walking in a previous century, only disturbed by plane noise, rather loud, every 10 minutes. The cemetery is located close to the landing/take-off zone of Lisbon’s airport. As far as I know nobody here seems to complain

Most of the Prazeres mausoleums belong to rich, old or ‘important’ families, like f.i. the Palmela family. Many of the mausoleums are richly elaborated, have fine sculptures and decorations. There are also statues of the deceased. It’s like a ‘city in a city’ for the dead, with well-defined lanes (70! ) and funerary chapels that were built to look like little houses.

The unusual about a lot of these graves is that they have little “front doors” with glass windows through which you can see the caskets and remnants of the dead and their visitors. Most of the trees are a species cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), much used in Portuguese cemeteries.

The cemetery also provides great views over the Alcântara valley, the river Tagus and the 25 April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

Until 1985, the great Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa was burried here. Thereafter his mortal remains were transferred to the cloisters of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

An example of a ’front door’ with glass windows through which you can see the caskets.

The cemetery, one of the largest of the Portuguese capital, can be reached by taking Electrico 28, which is a traditional and charming Lisbon tram, to its last stop in Prazeres. Open every day of the week from 09:00 – 17:00 (May – September 09:00 – 18:00). Largo dos Prazeres, Praça São João Bosco  More about cemeteries in Portugal

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Largo do Terreirinho in June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), Santo Antonio

Mouraria is an ancient area in the heart of Lisbon where fado was born. Amália Rodrigues was born nearby. Mariza, the internationally well-known fado singer started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times in bar ANOS 60. Together with Alfama, the area is a muddle of very narrow streets and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age.

Armeinio Ramos, owner of restaurant ‘O Basilio’.

Mouraria is still filled with old taverns and very cheap (but good!) small restaurants, serving traditional Portguese food. In contrary to the more ‘touristical’ historical areas, where prices in the restaurants are mostly much higher than those in Mouraria.

Restaurant ‘O Basilio’. Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic) is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast, where clams are easily found. It is called alentejana as being in the manner of the Alentejo, a province of Portugal.

Delicious! If you are not too hungry ask for meia dose (half serving) € 4.80, glass of white wine € 0.75. Recipe youtube

Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. In contrast, very nearby, at Praca Martim Moniz, grandiose buildings are being constructed. The people who live in Mouraria don’t understand why there’s no money available to renovate this ancient historic area.

more……

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Mouraria, Calçada de Santo André. This ‘Bairro‘ (neighborhood) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça, Alfama and Costa de Castelo, given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques (1109 – 1185) , after Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in this area. (Three bedroom apartment with patio in Mouraria)

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues. Its passionate songs overflow with saudade ( yearning), with sorrowful themes like despair, loss, betrayal, jealousy and unrequited love. The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical small grocery stores, old bars (some Fado taverns) and cheap traditional restaurants. More history of Fado (and the sad story of the legendary fadista Maria Severa (1820 – 1846) on this website.

Picture: Jef Aerosol. Stencilled paste-up of Amalia Rodrigues, Beco dos Cortumes, Alfama, Lisbon, August 22nd 2007 

Amália Rodrigues, Rainha do Fado (‘queen of Fado’) was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz in 1920. She was a genius and worldwide famous Fado singer and lived for many years on Rua de Sao Bento 193. Nowadays her house is a museum, it’s just like she’s still living there…  Casa Amalia Rodrigues ; 30 minutes guided tours from Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 13:00 and 14:00-18:00. Metro: Rato. http://amalia.no.sapo.pt/casamuseu.htm.

http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=QsgVb4swGfg, Amália Rodrigues, live in Lisbon singing a very famous song: Ai, Mouraria (Oh Mouraria), da velha Rua da Palma (near the old street ‘Rua da Palma’), onde eu um dia (where one day), deixei presa a minha alma (my soul became a prisoner)…

On October 6, 1999, Amália Rodrigues died at the age of 79 in her home in Lisbon. Portugal’s government promptly declared a period of national mourning. She is now buried at the National Pantheon alongside other Portuguese notables.

‘Discoteca Amalia’ Rua Aurea 274, a shop specialized in traditional Fado music. Very friendly and professional staff.

Amália Rodrigues casa http://amalia.no.sapo.pt/casamuseu.htm.

For those interested in knowing more about fado music style: the Fado Museum is located in front of Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (the historic Alfama neighborhood) including a permanent exhibition, a temporary exhibition area, a documentation centre, a store, a small auditorium, a school, and a restaurant/coffee-shop. The website includes a Fado Guide of Lisbon and recommended Lisbon Fado houses.
Open from 10:00 am – 18:00 (closed on Mondays)

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The Pantheon is opened daily, from 09:00 – 13:00 and 15:00-19:00, a ticket cost 2 euro. It is possible to walk around the inside of the dome, you can climb the 169 stairs (I did it, pfffffff!) or use the elevator. From the exterior of the dome the view on the Alfama area and on to the Tagus river is marvelous! Authentic house for rent in Alfama

History: the Church of Santa Engrácia (Igreja de Santa Engrácia) is a 17th century monument. In the 20th century the church has been converted into the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Its construction took 284 years and gave origin to the Portugese expression “Santa Engrácia works”, a Portuguese synonym for long unfinished works…..

Building work proceeded from 1682 through 1712. Eventually a dome was added, whereupon the church was reinaugurated in 1966. The magnificent 18th-century baroque organ was brought from the Lisbon Cathedral.

In 1966, during the government of the dictator Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, the Church of Santa Engrácia was turned into a National Pantheon. There are cenotaphs to f.i. Luís de Camões (famous Portugese poet), Pedro Alvares Cabral (Portuguese explorer), Vasco da Gama (commander of the first ships to sail directly from Europe to India) and Prince Henri The Navigator, an important figure in the early days of the Portugese Empire.

Vasco da Gama, his remains are elsewhere….

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Mouraria is one of Lisbon’s oldest districts. It contains a tangled street layout just as in Alfama, which has remained since the times of the Moors. The Arabs withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Portuguese – a ghetto for people of different faiths arose. In the 19th C. prostitution and fado, which at this time was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad name. Nowadays renovation of houses, which are threatened with falling into ruins, and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has only begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap (but good!) small restaurants. Three bedroom apartment with patio in Mouraria

(Largo da Severa’). It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado: The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.

Famous performer of fado Amália Rodrigues (”Lady of Lisbon”) the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

(’Mouraria, Berço do Fado‘, fado was born here), Rua da Mouraria/ corner Rua do Capelao. Maria is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly. But the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music.

Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”. Real traditional fado, out of the tourist circle: Tasca do Jaime

There is a plaque in Maria Severa’s memory and a stylized fado guitar can be seen on the newly surfaced road where she lived. The memory of the singer is also kept alive in the pub called “Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa) in the nearby Rua do Capelao , with a painting of her hanging on the wall.

“Os Amigos da Severa” (the Friends of Severa)  Rua do Capelao 32, and owner senhor Antonio Correia Alves Pais

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Mouraria, September 2008

BBQ with some good friends: Maurits (from Holland, living in Lisbon), Aurelio (from Brazil, living in Lisbon), Sheila (Canadian, living in Lisbon), Rob (living in Lisbon) and his mother (from England), Jur and Hans (from Holland) and I (Julie, living in Amsterdam, sometimes in Lisbon). I’m the one who writes the articles on this website.

Apartment Mouraria June 2009, beautiful new umbrellas

The 30 square meter patio is what makes this apartment really nice. In summertime you can catch some sun (from March – October) and walk the to kitchen fridge to get yourself a cold beer or a freezin’ bottle of Vinho Verde. At night you can sit outside, cool of after a hot summers day and have barbeque. There’s a large wooden table with 6 chairs, 1 relax chair and 2 beautiful new umbrellas (Umbrosa). For more information where to buy the umbrellas and prices mail to: erika.reusens@gmail.com

Facilities

The apartment, with a total surface of 100 square meters offers a lot of comfort.

The sunny livingroom has antique wooden doors that open to a small french balcony overlooking ‘Rua do Terreirinho’, a narrow street with many old houses and typical bars, and small restaurants. There’s a couch (twoseater) and a large eating and computer table with four chairs. A free and fast ADSL connection is available, bring your own laptop and you’ll have unlimited acces to the internet. There is a LCD satelite TV system in place with hundreds of international channels as well as a CD-player with Fado and traditional Portugese CD’s that you can use.

The master bedroom (with a double bed) that lies next to the living room has it’s own balcony facing the street as well. Clean sheets (and a full cleaning of the house) are taken care of before you arrive. If you plan to stay for a langer period we can arrange for the house and the beds to be cleaned during your visit as well. 2 big antique wooden closet provides more then sufficient closet space for your luggage.

The house has two extra bedrooms (one with boxspring beds) and five/six people can sleep in all comfort. New duvets and luxury duvet-covers (Essenza). A Chicco babybed plus matrass ( 0-4 years) is available for free.

There’s a large bathroom, bathtub and shower, a washing machine and a dryer (you can use it for free). Plenty of towels are provided.

The kitchen has been renovated, there’s a small table for your breakfast, a fridge, microwave, 4-burner-electric-cooker, pans, coffee-maker (and a Nespresso), fruit juicer, (wine) glasses, plates, cutlery, kitchen-linen etc. Good heating system for th e colder evenings in wintertime via eco-heating.

Mouraria, home of fado Music

No neighborhood in Lisbon is praised more in Fado music then Mouraria. This ‘Bairro’ (neighborhood in Portuguese) is a maze of little, narrow streets, situated between Graça (beautiful city viewpoint), Alfama and Costa de Castelo  (Castle of Saint George) is nowadays a ‘multiculti’ area.

Mouraria was given it’s name by the first Portugese king, Dom Afonso Henriques after the ’siege of Lisbon’, in which Lisbon was taken over again by the (Christian) Portugese army from the Moorish overlords. This siege put an end to the Islamic control in the Iberian peninsula. The Moors however kept on living in the city after the conquist and gathered in the Mouraria.

It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was at the base of Fado music. Amália Rodrigues, Lady of Lisbon, the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz. More

The little streets of Mouraria are full of typical grocery stores, old bars (taverna’s) and cheap traditional restaurants. (No modern nightlife, if your looking for bars and disco’s, go to the nearby Bairro Alto neighborhood). At the corner of the street is a smoking allowed bar/ restaurant, Anos 60, open till 04:00 or later….excellent live music Fado/Brasilian a.o.) !

Just to introduce you to some of our favourite neighbours in the street, meet Jose Marie and his wife on the picture on the left and Rui on the picture on the right.

Rui has a small cafe on Largo do Terreirinho 23, where most of the locals gather during the day for a quick beer (imperial). Try a pasteis de bacalhao (a small pastry with cod fish).
The restaurant of Jose Marie is a perfect place for a real portugese lunch. Don’t expect international food in this tiny restaurant. Their specialities are dishes like Cozido a Portuguesa (different kinds of meats, sausages and vegetables cooked in the same water), Coelho a caçador (Rabbitstew, in red wine) and Favas com entrecosto (Beans with porc meat and sausages).

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try a ‘bitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice. Prices are very fair ca. 6 euro for a meal. In the late hours when the shops are closed and you are on your way home, you can always stop at Jose’s and take some beers, wine, water, sigarettes and even food home.

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