“” Passeio o seu cão de saquinho na mão!” ‘Take your dog for a walk with a poop bag in your   hand!”

I saw this funny poster near one of my favorite places in Lisbon,  Miradouro da Graça. a splendid viewpoint offering a panoramic view of the castle and central Lisbon. The open-air cafe and its relaxing atmosphere is a favorite with young locals, especially in late afternoon. During the summer it remains open well into the night.

Home made coats… Feira da Ladra, Lisbons’ legendary flea market in wintertime (about 18 degrees C…..)

This one has very sad eyes….near the church in Rosssio, close to Palácio da Independência (Palace of Independece) and the famous small  ‘A Ginjinha’ cafe.

Rua da Costa do Castelo, walking up to the old castelo São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), located on the highest of the seven hills of the historic center of the city.

Alfama, at lunch time (almoço). The most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.   I manage to get lost every time I walk there…! It’s still like a kasbah, this labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog….

One of my favourite places and of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradoura de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor. This bar and restaurant is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tejo river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people.

Picture: haiamisa

In Lisbon there are many beggars on the streets. Sadly enough some of them use animals and many tourists give money to this boy. The dog doesn’t look very happy on the street in the heat of the summer……you’ll find him ‘working’ in the city center Baixa.

Praça Dom Pedro IV  at Christmas time 2009

Portuguese Water Dog (picture: Chicago Tribune)

Obama’s daughter Malia walks the First Family’s new puppy, Bo, on the grounds of the White House.

So far, I never saw a Portuguese ‘Water Dog’ in Lisbon…… But maybe Obama bought him because these very smart dogs were often taken with sailors during  the overseas Portuguese discoveries ? 

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Great old Moorish neighborhood: 2 -bedroom very old house in Alfama, Beco da Lapa, historic part of Lisbon. Weekly prices from € 350 /€ 400 (high season) with 2 persons, 3 night stay minimum € 35/40.  3 u/i 5 pers. € 25 pp pn. Cleaning € 40. Free internet access.

For information or reservation please call or mail to thelisbonconnection@gmail.com  Julie Kruijs. Skype: juliekr1956. Mobile: 0031 653941845.

This small but very charming 300 years old house is situated in a quiet area of  Alfama, one of the most popular neighbourhoods of Lisbon. Nicely renovated (3 floors, a maximum of 5 persons can share it).

Owner Pedro Silva will welcome you with a fine bottle of Portuguese wine. The house is located 8 km from Lisbon’s airport, near a narrowed maze of streets full of fado houses and restaurants, passing up the hill at São Jorge castle with its viewpoints over Lisbon downtown. Nearby Sintra, Estoril, Cascais and beaches of Costa da Caparica.

Located near the Sta. Apolónia train and metro station and one of the hippest nightclubs in town: Lux. Nearby you will find the National Pantheon and the legendary flea market “Feira da Ladra”. Pedro Silva, the Portuguese owner (see picture) owns one of the most popular bars in Bairro Alto, Capela, Lisbons heart of funky bars and restaurants.

If you are bringing your own car, this is one of the few areas of Lisbon with an easy parking space (€ 5- 7 a day). From the airport, a taxi will take you (about € 10) in ca. 15 minutes to this house.

The house (75 m2): 3 floors; living room with full equipped kitchen (electro domestics as a microwave, washing machine, dryer etc.) and an area to eat with a table for 5 persons; lounge area including 2 comfortable double sofa-beds, cable TV and CD/DVD/mp3 equipment; Bedroom including 1 double bed for 2 persons, large closet and small bathroom with tub and toilet. Excellent eco heating system.

Prices u/i April 2010 (Holidays excluded):

2 pers. € 35 pppn, 3 u/i 5 pers. € 25/20 pp pn (starting from 3 nights).
Week (discount, 7 nights) : total price with 2 pers. € 350, 3 pers. 400, 4 pers. € 450, 5 pers. € 5o0.

From May u/i September 2010:

2 pers. € 40 pppn, 3 u/i 5 pers. € 25/€ 30 pp pn (starting from 3 nights)
Week (7 nights, discount): total price  with 2 pers. € 400, 3 pers. € 450, 4 pers. 500, 5 pers. € 550.

Prices include: bedlinen, towels, all the bills, use of washing machine, dryer and heating. Excl.€ 40/50 final cleaning. Arrival time 13:00, departure: 11:00 a.m. Discounts: 10% off between the 8th and 14th day.

Payment procedure: 20 % by reservation to guarantee your booking and to block the dates off for you in the apartment’s calendar. You are required to pay at least 2 weeks in advance. Reservation with contract and cancellation conditions.

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Geweldige oud Moorse wijk! Voor informatie of reservering van dit huis in Alfama of het appartement in Mouraria kunt u mailen of bellen met Julie Kruijs: 0031 653941845. Skype: juliekr1956.

Vanaf 3 nachten te huur. Bij 3-5 pers € 25 pppn. , 2  pers € 35/40 pppn, week (korting) € 350′400 (2 pers), afh. van seizoen. * Gratis gebruik internet.

Authentiek eeuwenoud huis , op een gunstig plekje (Beco da Lapa) in de historische wijk Alfama, dichtbij de vele culturele attracties van Lissabon en  (fado) restaurantjes. Kasteel São George ligt op loopafstand. Het huis is sfeervol verbouwd; 75 m2, verdeeld over drie etages, compleet en comfortabel ingericht. Gratis gebruik van internet. Uitstekende verwarming voor de winterperiode.

Afstand vliegveld ca. 8 km, vlakbij trein- en metrostation Santa Apolonia en de rivier de Taag. Sintra, Estoril, Cascais en de stranden van Costa da Caparica, zijn makkelijk bereikbaar; het openbaar vervoer in Portugal is uitstekend, per boot, bus, metro, tram of trein. De aimabele Portugese eigenaar, Pedro Silva, spreekt uitstekend Engels en is tevens eigenaar en DJ van het beroemde cafe Capela in Bairro Alto, de legendarische uitgaanswijk van Lissabon.

Meer info over de ligging. In de nauwe straatjes is het heerlijk slenteren met de vele trappen, terrasjes en intieme (fado) restaurantjes met heerlijke vis- en vleesgerechten . Dwars door de wijk kronkelt trammetje 28. De legendarische Feira da Ladra (openlucht rommelmarkt) is 5 min. lopen. Kleine supermarktjes in de buurt, supermarkt Pingo Doce 10 minuten lopen (bij station Santa Apolonia).

Klimaat & kleding: het weer in Lissabon is het hele jaar door zeer aantrekkelijk. ’s Winters kan het overdag op een terrasje heerlijk warm zijn, ’s avonds kan het, ook in voor- en najaar, flink afkoelen. Neem (ook voor een regenbui) altijd een jas of trui mee. Actueel weer.  Tickets: Tap Portugal , KLM, Lissbon.nl .

Indeling: 1e etage: eettafel & 5 stoelen, kleine open keuken met 4-pits gasfornuis, koffiezetapparaat, waterkoker, alle benodigde keukengerei, koelkast, wasmachine, droger, magnetron, luchtbevochtiger. 2e etage: woon/lounge ruimte met twee uitstekende 2-persoons zit/bankbedden, extra prima uitklapbed, kabel TV met vele kanalen, CD-speler, DVD/ MP3/stereo, hangkast, gemakkelijke stoel. 3e etage: slaapkamer met 2-persoonsbed, grote kledingkast, kleine badkamer met ligbad, toilet en wastafel. Bed- en badlinnen in ruime mate aanwezig. Het huis is door de iets hogere ligging ’s zomers redelijk koel.

Prijzen t/m april 2010 (uitgezonderd vakantieperiodes).Vanaf 3 nachten te huur.

2 pers. € 35 pppn, 3 t/m 5 pers. € 20/25 pp pn. Weekprijs (7 nachten, korting) : met 2 pers. € 350, 3 pers. 400, 4 pers. € 450, 5 pers. € 500.

Mei t/m september 2010:

2 pers. € 40 pppn, 3 t/m 5 pers. € 25 pp pn. Weekprijs (7 nachten, korting): met 2 pers. € 400, 3 pers. € 450, 4 pers. 500, 5 pers. € 550.
Prijs bij 6 nachten niet boven de weekprijs. Verblijf langer dan een week, 2e week 10 % korting.

Reservering met huurcontract incl. coulante annuleringsvoorwaarden. Prijs is excl. eenmalige schoonmaakkosten van € 40 . Het huis is beschikbaar vanaf 13:00. Uiterlijke vertrektijd 11:00. Reist u met de auto? De parkeergarage in de buurt rekent € 5- 7 per dag.

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All creations have in mind the reutilization and recycling of materials. At this Fair in Alfama, the Ladra Alternativa, you’ll find very creative Portuguese designers showing their work like jewellery, arts, crafts and fashion accessories.

You might have been visited Lisbon’s legendary ‘Feira da Ladra” flea market. Although this flea market has slightly the same name, “alternativa” (alternative) points to a different way of approaching this kind of market.

A few years ago (2006) a group of young creators came together to present their work. The market started out as an experiment, but it has really become a great success.

This alternative flea market introduces local Portuguese creators in jewellery, painting, fashion, photography and others. It’s an informal interpretation of art and you will be impressed with the very creative designs!

I bought Christmas decoration made from used Nespresso caps, price: 3 euro.

Alexis’ website , mail: alexis7218@gmail.com

You’ll have the chance to talk to the person who created what you’re buying, change ideas, thoughts and experiences.

The initiators of this Fair are Antonio Azevedo (l), and Patricia Brizido,

Ladra Alternativa, email ladralternativa@gmail.com

(See website).Opening hours: Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Price: free, there’s no ATM machine, so bring cash.

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Restaurant Solar do Duque. Calcada do Duque  is a street made of hundreds of stairs, lined with lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants, near Largo Duque de Cadaval , a square full of open-air cafes near the beautiful Rossio Station. 

Around the Castle of St. Jorge (Castelo de São Jorge), the tiny and partially restored ancient neighborhood of Santa Cruz do Castelo , is one of the most picturesque parts of Lisbon.

Mouraria, Rua dos Cavaleiros. From here, you can walk to a beautiful viewpoint over the city, Miradouro da Graça.

Bairro Alto 

Bairro Alto. During daytime, the famous Bairro is a very quiet district, it’s really worth it to walk around: trendy shops, art galleries and fashion. At night, bars suddenly appear everywhere from behind the shutter doors.

Quite close to the historic Alfama neighborhood, a very nice street to walk around at Lisbon’ city center is Rua dos Bacalhoeiros (street of the cod fish sellers).

Alfama (more…..)

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To visit the castle, you can walk up the hill starting at Beco dos Fróis , from Largo Rodrigues de Freitas . This church, Igreja do Menino de Deus on the square of the same name was commissioned byJoao V,King of Portugal. It is one of the few churches which survived the big earthquake (1755) relatively undamaged. Construction began in 1711 but even today it has not been completely finished.

At the end of  Largo do Menino Deus (Square of God’s son) you’ll reach the (second) entrance to the castle of São Jorge. (The other entrance is at Rua da Costa do Castelo).

This is a wonderful hidden part of Lisbon. At the moment construction works have started here. Besides: don’t’ forget to wear flat shoes! The steets are cobbled in this area around the Castle.

Looking back, you can see the towers of Igreja da Sao Vincente de Fora (Church of St. Vincent outside the walls), a Renaissance church used primarily as a royal pantheon for the Portugese monarchy.

After passing through the gates, you enter Travessa do Funil, a very popular street with tourists, directly underneath Castelo São Jorge.

The urinal (urinol) at the corner of Travessa do Funil and Travessa Chão da Feira, Lisbon’s only open air uninal.

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The station is served by the national rail company CP (train timetables in English and online tickets, including the high-speed train Alfa Pedular) and operates different suburban, national- and international routes. The best thing to do is to reserve a ticket at least one day before your journey.  Alfa Pendular also connects the cities of Braga, Porto, Aveiro, Coimbra, Santarém, Albufeira and Faro, among others.

A taxi from this station shouldn’t cost more then € 5-10 into the city, luggage included (2008). The taxidriver will charge you with € 1,80 for the luggage (if you have luggage that needs to be placed in the trunk of the car). The starting fare of the taxi should be € 2,35 during daytime and 2,50 during nighttime. The rates are 20% higher during nighttime, in the weekend and during holidays.

Santa Apolónia Station, a beautiful building. Inside you’ll find several small restaurants and shops.

This station is Lisbon’s main departure point for international destinations and central/ northern Portugal. The other major railway hubs in Lisbon are Gare do Oriente, which is situated on the same track stretch 6,5 km northeast and Cais do Sodré (to Cascais and Estoril) , Rossio Train Station (runs to Sintra) and Entrecampos.

Mark of honour from the city of Lisbon to General Humberto Delgado, General sem Medo (Fearless General) and to all who fought for Portugal’s freedom during Salazar’s dictatorship (from 1932 to 1974). Short tribute film (by Bruno de Almeida) to General Humberto Delgado in memory of his legendary arrival at Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia Station in 1958, where he was meet by Salazar’s fascist police. How many people were killed is still a secret. The General and his Brazilian secretary, Arajaryr Moreiro de Campos, would be murdered on 13 February 1965, after being attracted to an ambush by the regime’s secret police (PIDE)

Santa Apolónia’s rail station is connected to the Lisbon Metro station of the same name, which opened in 2007 (blue line, Linha Azul ). Metropolitano de Lisboa, Lisbon Metro official page, a webste (also in English) including a map with a network diagram and explanation of the lines. Click on the name of a station to obtain more information. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket office of the respective boarding stations and at the automatic ticketing machines.

Metro station Terreiro do Paço at Praça do Comércio near the Tagus River, opened in 2007. This square is one of the most beautiful in Europe! More and Lisboa Card info

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The entrance. ‘Coupé Berlin, 18th Century. The 17th C. former city palace of the Count of Azurara stands on the Largo das Portas do Sol  in Alfama, in the heart of Lisbon’s historic centre, currently houses the Museum of Decorative Arts. The banker Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva, whose family was one of the richest in Portugal, acquired the palace in 1947 and donated his collection to be the museum. Visitors to the museum are transported on a journey to an elegannt 18th Century Portuguese setting, where the artistic quality of the works, ranging from the 15th to the 18th Century, highlight the Founder’s taste and passion for Portuguese Decorative Arts.

The grand staircase leading to 1st floor has lovely tiles. An on-site collection of tiles (azulejos), several of which originallly pertained to the Palace, while others were integrated therein during the restorations works, in the end of the 1940s. 

The azulejo is a form of Portuguese painted, tin-glazed, ceramic tilework. They have become a typical aspect of Portuguese culture. Azulejo comes from the Arabic word az-zulayj, meaning polished stone. Wherever you go in Portugal, azulejos are to be found inside and outside cafes, churches, palaces, ordinary houses and even ceilings, train- or subway stations. Many azulejos chronicle major historical and cultural aspects of Portuguese history.

Beautiful ceiling and azulejos! Sorry, no more pictures (the guards……..). The museum has a remarkable collection of faience, local silver and ceramics, paintings, bedrooms, dining rooms and dressing rooms. Each room is more ornated than the next, in an aristocratic environment. Anyone interested in decorative arts in general and the Portuguese Empire in particular will find this collection fascinating.

Museum of Decorative Arts, Alfama
Largo das Portas do Sol, 2  more information and Museum shop  http://www.fress.pt/  nearby  Alfama historical centre

Closed: New year’s Day, Easter, May Day (May 1st) and Christmas (December 25). Cost Adult 4.00, free entrance for children aged 12 or under. Opening hours 10 a.m to 5 a.m. Museum shop: publications, replicas and other articles. Patio with cafetaria-restaurant. 

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Market ‘A Feira da Ladra‘ (Lisbon’s flea market). Alberto Gourgel and his old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines. This famous market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk.

”The last six years, I’m in to ‘vintage’, and I’m fascinated with the beautiful 20th Century Portuguese ‘vogue’ magazines. It’s not easy finding them, sometimes I’m lucky in a small museum or in very old bookshops”.

Alberto Gourgel: ‘The vernis is made by hand, an ancient procedure. It takes a lot of time because it’s very important to keep the original colours”. Besides Alberto decorates posters, walls, doors and room separators. Visit Alberto’s weblog

Flea market “Feira da Ladra” is visited by lots of tourists from all over the world. The market in Alfama dates back around 800 years, though it may have been named ‘Feira da Ladra’ as late as the 17th century.

September 2009. ‘Biombo’ (room separator), prices from 75- 125 euro. More information about this famous market on this website

Alberto’s work is also for sale in some antique shops in Lisbon and in loja (shop) ‘A Vida Portuguesa’. Owner is Catarina Portas. She has a passion for Portuguese identity, and everyday Catarina brings objects of the past back to life to inhabit modern-day homes.

‘A Vida Portuguesa’, Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado Lisbon

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Mouraria – all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights. More information Festas de Lisboa

Alfama, June 2008. Santo Antionio & Portuguese flags (EFC) football

Restaurant ‘A Tasquinha’, Largo Contador Mor, Castelo area, really good sardines!

Eating sardines while listening to the fado singers. Fado came long after Saint Anthony, but its major theme is nostalgia and longing-for what is lost and for what has never been gained. Anthony fits right into this scene!

The streets are filled with the delicious (strong) smell of sardines being grilled. It’s not a good time for the sardines  though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

On the night of June 12 you can enjoy the famous yearly Santo Antionio costume Parade. All the clubs and associations of Lisbons’ neighbourhoods descend on Avenida da Liberdade to compete for the best parade, music, costume and choreography.

More…..

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