Fully packed Tram 28 (2017) Lisbon & alternative RED or GREEN TRAM tour: best stops & tourist attractions

If you want to get a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, take this typical yellow little trolley, ‘eléctrico 28’. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town and you can hop on and hop off. Long lines nowadays (2017)!

Tram electrico 28 Alfama Lisbon

Tram (‘eléctrico 28’), Alfama. Starting point: square Praça Martim Moniz 

STOPS

It passes the Saint George’s (São Jorge) castle , one of the main historical touristic sites of Lisbon, the famous viewpoint (miradouroPortas do Sol (Gates to the sun) and the legendary fleamarket ‘Feira da Ladra’  in Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, Bairro Alto, (Lisbon’s bohemien haunt of artists and writers, and posssibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out). Last stop: Cemetery ‘Prazeres’ (Cemetery of ‘Pleasures’), really worth a visit!

Largo do Portas do Sol Lisbon tram 28

Tram 28, Largo Portas do Sol, a famous viewpoint & tourist attractionbackground Museum of Decorative Arts

Short- time rentals, 5 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom authentic apartment with lovely patio, 100 m2

Tram 28 is very popular with tourists & prime pickpocket territory! Take care!

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz starting point tram 28 long lines

Starting point tram 28, April 2016: square Praça Martim Moniz & long lines of people waiting….

Hop on hop off

Buy the 24-hour ticket that will allow you to hop on and off whenever you want on all trams, buses, and subway lines.

Cost: around 4 euros.

Red tram tour sightseeing Lisbon

Alternative idea: oficial sightseeing RED TRAM TOUR 

How to avoid long lines TRAM 28 & official sightseeing Red Tram Tour Lisbon

The number of tourists has been increased (2015), which means that tram 28 route is mostly fully packed.
 –
The RED TRAM is the official sightseeing tram, which covers the same neighborhoods, a ticket is much more expensive, but you’re always guaranteed to have a seat.
 –
Starting point & tickets : square Praça do Comércio
GREEN Tram Lisbon Praca do Figueira April2016 2
 –
ALTERNATIVE GREEN TRAM & STOPS
FARE: 9 euro, children half price (4-10 years),  starting point & tickets Praça da Figueira Lisbon

The antique GREEN trams are older than the trams on tram 28 (The fare for a day is 9 Euro, half of the fare of the longer RED tram tour).

The tram departs from Praça da Figueira and passes Lisbon’s oldest Cathedral Sé de Lisboa, famous viewpoint Portas do Sol, near the Castle (Castelo) of Saint George, through the streets of historical areas Alfama and Graça 

There ‘s English and Portuguese tour commentary without the need for headsets.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28

Starting point tram 28: square Praça Martim Moniz , nowadays a very nice place to enjoy a light meal in the sun with a lot of kiosks and terraces.

3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio (30 m2), short term rentals

10 minutes walk from starting point tram 28 my there’s my 3 bedroom (100 m2) apartment (short term rental) in historical area  Mouraria with a 30m2 and very quiet sunny patio.

Alfama tram 28

Alfama. Tram 28 is increasingly as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.

More info about tram 28, stops and useful tips: Seeing Lisbon through tram 28

Video tram 28 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YiHO5jZYY4

Christmas time in Lisbon tram 28 happy new year

Tram 28, Lisbon and Christmas, Praça da Figueira

The average intervals between each one is 15 minutes and the entire trip takes between 40 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour). All stops vintage tram 28

Tram 28 Alfama near flea market Feira da Ladra

Tram 28, near Lisbon’s legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’

Lisbon Tram 12, free ride Mouraria

Besides: a free ride, tram 12 Mouraria

Lisbon tram 28 February 2010

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, street parties, grilled sardines & naughty lyrics (Pimba musica)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center.

Mouraria Lisbon in June

Restaurant Zé da Mouraria, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon.

YouTube Street party area Mouraria Lisbon 2017

In June, all the streets in the historic areas are decorated with garlands and lights, the atmosphere is wonderful!

Mouraria Lisbon June 12 2016: Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12Lisbon turns into one big party 🙂

 Festas de Lisboa ; program       Facebook

Mouraria Lisbon Santo Antonio street party June 12 2016

June 12, 2016 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria, Lisbon. Picture: Hans Stuij

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the streets

Wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets.

Festas de Lisboa June 12 2015 Mouraria1

June 12: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in historic area Mouraria: party time! 🙂

Rua da Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

June 12, 2017 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Mouraria Lisbon, Rua do Terreirinh0 58 

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad

Lisbon Mouraria historical area in June party time

June 12, 2015: Lisbon’s craziest night of the year

Historical area Mouraria, Rua Guia, Lisbon drinking and dancing in the streets

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

June 12, 2015 & Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

2016 parade historical area Mouraria (YouTube)

June 12, 2016 Rua Guia, Lisbon & the yearly Saint Anthony parade

Yearly parades June 12

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.  Each group represents a Lisbon neighborhood and there is a winner for the best song and costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages).

YouTube yearly parade

Mouraria Lisbon 2016 Santo Joao

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints in historical area Mouraria Lisbon

Saint João 😉 😉 (sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Lisbon June 16 2016

Saint Antonio street party Mouraria Lisbon & the black bra at the neighbors’ balustrade 😉 😉

bar Flamingo & Dutch friend Feikje Stuij

Saint Anthony street party Mouraria Lisbon, June 12, 2017 & bar Flamingo  Strike a pose! 🙂

In this area in Mouraria: my 3-bedroom apartment with quiet sunny patio (30 m2) in this old neighborhood , free Wifi, BBQ: 6 persons can sleep comfortably, short term rentals)

Santo Antonio Bica party

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto – partying in the small street, it’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying a whole lot of caipirinhas and mojitos on the bar-lined hills. Every bar and club in the district shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

Lisbon Santo Antonio restaurant Paladar

Bairro Alto historical area Lisbon

Drinks & sardinhas (sardines) with traditional bread

Lisbon Santo Antonio Trindade Pimba music

Largo da Trindade – people are dancing on Pimba music

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

Pimba is a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria 😉 😉  by Quim Barreiros)

Lisbon santo Antonio Alfama BBQ

Historic area Alfama & BBQ in the street

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube in one of the historical parts of Lisbon: Alfama

Santo Antonio Lisbon June 12 2015 Mouraria Grupo desportivo 2

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto. Barely a street escapes as paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights are hung from balconies and railings.

Lisbon Santo Antonio June Sardinhas

Historical area Mouraria in June

Sardines (sardinhas) & the Saint festivities belong together

There’s also the grilled sardines, you can smell it everywhere in the streets! It’s not a good time for sardines 😉 though as everywhere in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up people in party mood.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Manjerico basil Festas de Lisboa gift R June 2

Pot of basil with love poems, a gift from a nice friend…. 🙂

não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

mass marriages Lisbon St. Anthony’s Weddings

Mass marriages known as “St. Anthony’s Weddings”

There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides (mass marriages), held during the mid-June St. Anthony’s Day celebrations.

More…. YouTube

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities

MORE …

Popular cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao’ near Lisbons’ flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’: excellent food & lovely terrace

After browsing Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, (early in the morning you can find the best bargains), it’s a good idea to drink a coffee/beer or enjoy a lunch in Restaurant ‘O Panteao´, (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ .

Terrace cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’  Lisbon

Legendary fleamarket Lisbon

From the terrace you can see a part of Lisbon’s legendary fleamarket, and the Pantheon, in which important Portugese personalities are buried, like f.e. Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

This popular restaurant serves real Portugese food for a good price (less than 15 euro).

Lisbon restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra terrace

Restaurant O Panteao de Santa Clara’ near the legendary flea market

Former palace & robbery

The beautiful building is a former palace. About 300 years ago a well-to-do and important Italian diplomat, marquis Polucci di Calboli, and his family lived here. The story tells about a conspiracy, the fact is that the family disappeared and a lot of beautiful art, collected for generations, was robbed.

Lisbon Restaurant O panteao near Feira da Ladra

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food for a good price

If you are not too hungry ask for “meia dose” (half serving). Traditional Portuguese cooking – excellent food. Price: less than 15 €. From the restaurant you can see the dome of  The Pantheon.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon January ’17

Ths place is one of my favorites. Our lunch (almoço):

Gambas com alho (prawns with garlic) € 9.50, copo de vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 1.00. Caril de frango (chicken curry) € 6.90. Agua (small bottle of water) € 1.10, espresso/cafe € 0.80

It’s really fun enjoying a lunch on the terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of the fleamarket, or a quick nap 😉

Lisbon Feira da Ladra man asleep near restaurant O Panteao

Near the restaurant: legendary fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon

If you are looking for buying ‘opportunities’, or things that ‘fell of a lorry’, make sure you go there early, cause like on all flea markets, the good stuff is sold first

Lisbon Feira da Ladra owners restaurant O Panteao

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Panteao (Pantheon) de Santa Clara’ Lisbon

Restaurant owners Armando Pereira Antunes, his wife Maria Guilherina and the very friendly waiter Celso. Campo Santa Clara 146-A, Lisbon , easy to reach with the legendary tram 28, a ´must do´ Lisbon attraction

The former palace near the fleamarket Lisbon

Looking for a nice place to stay in Lisbon?

My authentic 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (short term rentals)

Lovely Portuguese ceramics at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, symbols of Portugal & ‘love’ swallow

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Armazém das Caldas’. The traditional Portuguese ceramics and the warm service of the owner makes me feel like buying a lot..  !  🙂

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra Lisbon ceramic shop Jan. 2017 & Loes Broere

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’, Campo de Santa Clara 112, fleamarket Lisbon & friend Loes Broere, January 2017

Armazém (lit. warehouse) das Caldas opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramic Bordalo Pinheiro black cat

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro designs

People who visit Lisbon a few days, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramic 3

Portuguese traditional ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , located at the fleamarket in Lisbon.

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  and many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra famous ceramics swallow

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon & swallow nest (€ 30)

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra lovely ceramics hanging codfish

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ , hanging salted codfish (bacalhau, € 25)

Dried and salted codfish (bacalhau), a faithful friend (fiel amigo) & history

The Portuguese adore codfish and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

There’s a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of codfish is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend). More…….

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics galinha

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, rooster (galinha, € 35)

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…

YouTubeThe legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

Of course there’s a ‘good luck’ rooster in my 3-bedroom apartment with patio in Lisbon  😉  (short term rentals).

Lisbon Armazem Caldas Feira da Ladra ceramics sardines

Portuguese ceramics: ‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

Lisbon’s craziest night: YouTube (in historical area Alfama)

Lisbon Feira da Ladra shop Armazem Caldas tableware1

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon, my favorite: crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Armazém das Caldas’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, 112
Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00
Thursdays and Fridays: open from 11:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon Armazem das Caldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

Kiosk cafe ‘Clara Clara’ Lisbon, wonderful garden at fleamarket Feira da Ladra, children playground & Tagus river views

The ‘Clara Clara’ Cafe in Alfama Lisbon is a kiosk in the garden-terrace of Boto Machado (or Santa Clara), overlooking the Tagus (Tejo) River and the National Pantheon (Church of Santa Engracia) in the heart of Lisbon’s legendary flea market, Feira da Ladra.

‘Clara Clara’ kiosk cafe in the heart of fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon

This wonderful small and quiet garden is a nice place to sit down and relax after browsing the legendary Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (a must see when you visit Lisbon) or after visiting the National Pantheon (on the background), in which important Portuguese personalities are buried, like for example Amalia Rodrigues, the famous fado singer.

Clara Clara terrace & view on the Tagus river, Lisbon

This garden was built in 1862. It provides a panoramic view of the Tagus River. Clara Clara Cafe presents complementary activities such as music or entertainment for kids . A little further down, there is a playground.

Playground and game tables for children – kiosk cafe Clara Clara Lisbon

As for the menu, the cafe offers coffee, (bica), tea (chá) and Portuguese wines such as Vinho Verde (green wine), beer (imperial) and lemonade, fresh fruit shakes or a sandwich.

Clara Clara terrace in summertime

An inviting terrace in summertime: you can cool off under the trees of the garden. The kiosk cafe offers food and drinks – fresh seasonal products – with a careful selection of cheeses and wines, at tables under the trees in sumertime.

Clara Clara cafe in June, the kiosk is decorated with garlands (Feast Days of the Popular Saints)

This beautiful garden was named after Pedro Amaral Boto Machado, a Portuguese Republican politician and governor (from May 1913 till May 1915) of the islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, discovered and claimed by Portugal in the 1470s. Independence was granted on July 1975.

Clara Clara Cafe is open daily from 10:00 AM to midnight. Easy to reach by old tram 28.

Clara Clara Cafe in wintertime (december)

In winter season the cafe offers heaters and blankets. Nothing better than a tea, hot chocolate or a Vinho Quente (hot red mulled wine) on a cold afternoon. The scones and hot croissants already have enough fans, as well as the chocolate muffins.

In Lisbon you can still find a lot of nostalgic Moorish kiosks cafes

The garden is surrounded by the flea market

Fleamarket Feira da Ladra, Lisbon (every Tuesday and Saturday from dusk till dawn)

Dogs in Lisbon: happy, sad or homeless, BIANCA association, beggars with dogs & Bo, Obama’s Portuguese Water Dog

There are lots of dogs in Lisbon, and a lot of them are quite happy…except the abandoned ones… they deserve a better life! You can help…read more  about BIANCA , Association for the protection of homeless Portuguese cats and dogs.

Poster near Miradouro da Graca Lisbon

“” Passeio o seu cão de saquinho na mão!” ‘Take your dog for a walk with a poop bag in your  hand!”

I saw this funny poster near one of my favorite places in Lisbon,  Miradouro da Graça, a splendid viewpoint offering a panoramic view of the castle and central Lisbon. The open-air cafe and its relaxing atmosphere is a favorite with young locals, especially in late afternoon. During the summer it remains open well into the night.

Dogs in wintertime at flea market Feira da Ladra home made dog dresses

Home made coats… Feira da Ladra, Lisbons’ legendary flea market in wintertime (about 18 degrees C…..)

Little dog church Rossio

This one has very sad eyes….near the church in Rosssio, close to Palácio da Independência (Palace of Independece) and the famous small  A Ginjinhacafe.

Rua da Costa do Castelo

Rua da Costa do Castelo, walking up to the old castelo São Jorge (Castle of Saint George), located on the highest of the seven hills of the historic center of the city.

doggy in the window Alfama

Alfama, at lunch time (almoço). The most famous historic and oldest neighborhood in Lisbon.   I manage to get lost every time I walk there…! It’s a labyrinth of lanes (becos) paved with pebbles, tiny alleys, steps, arches, courtyards and small squares. Houses, shouldering each other, with tiles (azulejos) and wrought iron balconies with lazy cats, birds in cages and sometimes a sleeping dog…. 🙂

Cafe Noo bai Santa Catarina Lisbon

One of my favourite places and of many Lisbon locals and visitors of the city. The entrance of Cafe Noobai is located on Miradoura de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor. This bar and restaurant is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tejo river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people.

Lisbon beggars using dogs Baixa

🙁 Beggar with his small dog in Lisbon city center 🙁

Beggars & dogs

In Lisbon there are many beggars on the streets. Sadly enough some of them use animals, many tourists give money to this boy. The dog doesn’t look very happy on the street in the heat of the summer……you’ll find him ‘working’ in the city center Baixa.

Dogs in Lisbon Praca Dom Pedro IV Chistmas time

Praça Dom Pedro IV  at Christmas time 2009

Portugeuse waterdog Bo Obama

Portuguese Water Dog (picture: Chicago Tribune)

Obama’s daughter Malia walks the First Family’s new puppy, Bo, on the grounds of the White House.

So far, I never saw a Portuguese ‘Water Dog’ in Lisbon…… But maybe Obama bought him because these very smart dogs were often taken with sailors during  the overseas Portuguese discoveries ?  😉

 

 

Museum of Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon: Portuguese 17th to 18th C. nobility collection, viewpoint Portas do Sol, lovely tiles, romantic patio & an extraordinary experience: guided visit to arts and crafts ateliers

Would you like to see how the Portuguese nobility lived in their luxury palaces during the 17th and 18th Century? If you are planning to visit Lisbon take the opportunity to visit the Museum of Decorative Arts, the former city palace,easy to reach by legendary tram 28.

Museum of Decoratve Arts Lisbon 1

Museum of Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon (Museu Artes Decorativas Fress) 2014: visitors from Holland Ans de Graaf and Loek Polack & our tour guide Margarida Serra

The Portuguese nobility, during the 17th and 18th Century among the world’s wealthiest, embraced the sumptuous style of ‘Versailles’ and acquired lavishly decorated items throughout the continent.  “While everyone else in Europe was leveraged in that period, the Portuguese were fully financed.” More….

But there’s much more to see in this Museum, like the beautiful Portuguese tiles (azulejos).  And a visit to the ateliers next to the museum is a wonderful experience!

Museum of Decorative Art Fress Lisbon King Jose Room 2

Museum of Decorative Arts Lisbon: King Jose room (1714 – 1777):  exuberantly carved furnishings in ‘Rococo’ style. Remarkable rosewood table (movie)

An example of a noble house in the 17th and 18th centuries. Portuguese aristocrats loved shopping, also in other countries: beautiful decorative arts including textiles, furniture, paintings, jewelry, collections of silverware, woven fabrics, China crockery and ceramics.

Museum of Decorative Arts 2009 2

Entrance Museum of Decorative Arts Lisbon: ‘Coupé Berlin, 18th Century.

In 2009 I also wrote about this museum, at that time you were not allowed to take pictures. Now you can wander freely from room to room and take time to make photos. The Museum has suffered several changes and it is really worth a visit.

Museum Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon Panel azulejos children 2

Museum of Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon: a beautilful tile panel & guided tour for children

Besides preservation, exhibition and research of the peaces in display, the Museum also promotes information throughout different audiences, converging the guided tours, as well as carrying out conferences and thematic arts- and craft workshops.

Museum of Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon- Portuguese Chairs Room

Museum of Decorative Arts Lisbon: new is a room with beautiful antique Portuguese chairs

The Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva (1900 – 1955) Foundation

Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva was the third son of a Portuguese banker with a remarkable name, because Espírito Santo means ‘Holy Ghost’.  This business man, art lover and Maecenas, and besides famous as one of the most renowned Portuguese bankers, donated to Portugal the wonderful Azura Palace and a decorative art collection.

Museum of Decorative Arts - guided tour Workshops

Ana Sim-Sim, our guide to the traditional Art & Crafts Ateliers and mr. Artur Sousa

Make a visit to the ateliers

In the former Palace there are 18 traditional Arts & Craft ateliers. Besides restoration of ancient pieces, new ones are manufactured with high technique and artistic quality, incorporating traditional techniques and methodes. A wonderful combination of modernity and tradition! Very creative people are at work here, dedicated to traditional breeding and restoration of old pieces (cabinet-making, inlays, wood carving, chiselling, book decoration, trimings and upholstery)

Museum Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon beautiful patio for lunch

Museum of Decorative Arts Lisbon: romantic and quiet patio to enjoy lunch, but today it’s raining  🙁

The Museum’s Cafetaria (there’s also a space inside for rainy days): from 12:30 to 14:30 you can enjoy soup, dish, vegetarian pie, salad, bread and olives, dessert, fruit, cold tea / juice, water, coffee (€ 10.00). The buffet changes every day.

Museum of Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon formeer palace entrance ateliers

Museum of Decorative Arts Lisbon, Largo das Porta do Sol 2 & entrance to Arts & Crafts Ateliers

The Foundation Ateliers are open to guided tours without pre-booking on Monday (11 am + 3 pm), Wednesday (11 am + 3 pm) and Thursday (3 pm). In English or Portuguese (in other languages according availability). Pre-booked guided tours are available from Monday to Friday. Call (00351) 21 881 46 39/00 ​

Museum of Decorative Arts Fress Lisbon- view from the window Portas do Sol

View from one of the Museum’s windows February 2014: popular tourist viewpoint Portas do Sol

Museum of Decorative Arts, Largo das Portas do Sol, 2 , located in the historic area Alfama, one step away from one of Lisbon’s most popular tourist attractions: viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol: stunning river Tagus views!

Musum of Decorative Arts Lisbon atelier1

Mr. Artur Sousa at work in one of the Museum’s ateliers. Website (FRESS) with presentation: (several Movies)

Facebook  Closed: New year’s Day, Easter, May Day (May 1st) and Christmas (December 25). Adult 4.00, free entrance children aged 12 or under. Open: 10:00 to 17:00.

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: traditional Portuguese delicacies, lovely menu of small plate dishes (petiscos) & attached to the Fado Museum

Portugal is famous for its culinary richness! Highly recommended in Lisbon, also for groups: restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’, attached to the Museum.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa (traverse) do Fado’ Lisbon: sunny terrace in June

Fado Museum attached to the restaurant

Your first visit to Lisbon? Don’t think you can always enjoy traditional fado music here during your (delicious) lunch or dinner. The name is related to the Fado Museum, attached to the restaurant. If you wish, the very nice manager António Moita can recommend a good fado-bar. The next-door Fado museum is open from 10:00-18:00 (closed Mondays)

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: small plate dishes (petiscos)

Sopa legumes (vegetable soup) € 4.00, Bochecha do Porco Preto (black pork cheeck) € 6.50, Tomatada (fried tomatoes) € 4.00, pão (very good bread) € 1.00, copo do vinho branco (glass of white wine) € 4.00, agua (1/2 lit. water) € 1.50, café € 1.50.

Petiscos/tapas

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….  ). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. 😉

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: manager António Moita

Famous restaurant ‘A Travessa’ in Lisbon, considered one of the best in the city, opened in July 2012 this new space in another area: the heart of Alfama, the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: Bacalhau (Cod) Zé do Pipo

Quality and sophisticated service is also available in a ‘Petisqueira‘ version, relaxed and casual.  In case you come here for a lunch experience, this restaurant is a great starting point to discover the narrow streets of Alfama, the historical part of Lisbon.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon, November 2012, a rainy day.

Also in wintertime this restaurant is worth a visit, inside it is beautifully decorated. Together with my friend Erika Reusens we spent a wonderful afternoon here enjoying some petiscos and a very good red wine (Foral Reserva, bottle € 18,00).

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’: Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans): € 3,00. I love it!  🙂

Peixinhos da horta (YouTube) is a traditional dish in Portuguese cuisine, literally translated as ‘little garden fish’, as it resembles small pieces of colorful fish. On the wall  there’s a chalky blackboard with suggestions: soups, salads, octopus, cuttlefish, shrimp or oysters. Delicious desserts (sobremesa), like tarte de amendoas (almond tart) € 4.00, or bolo do chocolate (chocolate cake) € 4.00.

Restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon in summertime

Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1, Alfama,  Lisbon

Telephone: (+351) 218 870 144. Closed: Monday and Tuesday. Opening times: from 11:00 am till 01:00. Facebook

Fado Museum Lisbon, attached to restaurant ‘ A Travessa do Fado’

The Fado Museum in Lisbon is ‘a must do’ for those who love Fado music as well as those with an interest in Portuguese culture and history. The permanent exhibition is a tribute to Fado and its promoters, revealing its history since 19th century Lisbon. More…

Restaurant ‘A Travessa do Fado’ Lisbon: fado night September 24 2013

Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Eve of Saint Anthony, open air party’s historical areas, mix of religion & sensuality

Lisbon in June: wine, sangria, beer, the smell of grilled sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, pimba music and lots of people eating, drinking and dancing in the streets of the historical areas.

On the eve of Saint Anthony day, the ‘matchmaker ‘ (Santo António, June 13), Lisbon turns into a huge open air party!

June 12, party time! Historic area Mouraria Rua da Guia Lisbon: Eve of Santo António (Saint Anthony)

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center. In the ancient Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods it all takes place. Of course, you are welcome to join the festivities!

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Santo António, Rua João do Outeiro.

Santo António (Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s most popular saint

Santo António (Saint Anthony of Padua), was a Portuguese catholic priest. Many miracles have been attributed to him and he is considered a protector of the souls of purgatory, guardian of good marriages, defender of animals, healer, and advocate of lost objects. Saint Anthony was born in Alfama (1195) near Mouraria, one of the oldest areas of Lisbon.

Lisbon craziest night of the year in area Alfama, nearby Mouraria (YouTube)

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria in June, Rua João do Outeiro 34, Lisbon

Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’ : delicious typical Portuguese food and a popular tourist attraction in a former Moorish quarter of Lisbon, Mouraria. In the month of June, all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights.

My 3-bedroom apartment with patio is for rent in this historical area (short term rentals)

June 12 in Lisbon: Adamastor, Santa Catarina  near the Tagus River, a popular viewpoint & gathering place.

In the ancient neighbourhoods it all takes place, but this party is also held in other parts of Lisbon, like Adamastor, a popular Tagus viewpoint, with the most breathtaking views on the Tagus river, the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument, overlooking the city of Lisbon.

Lisbon, June 12, Bairro Alto area

The entire month of June in Lisbon is devoted to the Saints festivities, but June 12 is a very special day. While walking around you see people eating and drinking in the streets. The crowds can be immense, there’s music everywhere and everyone around you is in a very good mood, a wonderful feeling! ‘

June 12, 2011. Famous Bica funicular Lisbon, a popular tourist attraction

Partying in the small streets around the famous Bica funicular, highly valued by tourists.

A cool and very popular lounge bar in this street is Bicaense, near the bars of the bohemian district of Bairro Alto , possibly one of the best spots in Europe for a night out. Not only in June, but every night hundreds of people from all over the world are drinking mojitos, caipirinhas and beer out of plastic cups in the narrow streets.

Pastelaria and restaurant “D. João I”, Rua D. Duarte 1-B , Lisbon

Pimba music (songs with naughty lyrics)

On June 12 the festivities in Lisbon already start around noon, and everywhere you hear music coming out of the cafes and restaurants.

YouTube “Quero Cheirar o teu bacalhau” (by Quim Barreiros): ‘I would like to smell your codfish’ 😉 😉

Even the beggar near the cafe started dancing spontaneously …..people are dancing on Pimba music – a term used for a variety of popular Portuguese folk solo singers and bands whose songs are frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings.

Historical area Mouraria in June: Rua da Guia, Lisbon

In the month of June all the narrow streets in Lisbon’s historical areas are packed with stalls selling sangria and beer. Everywhere there’s the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines – the traditional food of the Saint Anthony celebrations are grilled sardines – but you can also go for barbecued chicken, chouriços (sausage) or pork.

June 12 Lisbon historical area : Arraial da Mouraria, dancing in the streets

There’s lots of dancing through the night. The best thing to do is just keep going and enjoy! Throughout old Lisbon there are open air parties everywhere. The party goes on until dawn 🙂

More about Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria

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Mouraria Saint Anthony Lisbon – pots with manjerico (basil) & small love poems

Basil & love poems

During the Santo Antonio (Saint Anthony) festival it is a tradition to offer a small pot of basil to loved ones, and in the narrow streets there are also stands where pots with manjericos (basil) are sold. Traditionally bought by boyfriends and given as a present to their girlfriends in Saint’s Anthony’s night.

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon in June: religious procession

Yearly parade

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm June 12, there will be the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes. There’s also the Saint Anthony’s brides.

Youtube movie Saint Anthony festivities 2011

Alfama historic Lisbon: Rua do Salvador, restaurant ‘Zip Zip’, pottery Olaria & designer Alberto Gourgel

One of my favorite old streets in Lisbon is Rua do Salvador in Alfama, the most famous historic and oldest neighborhood of Lisbon. The area is easy to reach from the city center by the legendary old tram 28

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon1

Rua do Salvador/corner Rua de São Tomé, Alfama Lisbon

Here you will find a real Portuguese atmosphere, quite close to the famous viewpoint and tourist attraction Portas do Sol

Rua do Salvador is named after the city of Salvador in Brazil, a former Portuguese colony (from 1500-1825). Historic name: Cidade de São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos ( “City of the Holy Savior of the Bay of all Saints”).

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon2 restaurant Zip Zip

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Lisbon, typical Portuguese restaurant

Small restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a real tasca, serving affordable good Portuguese standard snacks and dishes, also loved by locals. Typical in historic area Alfama is a singing canary (or other types of birds, like a parrot) in a small cage hanging from windows and doors.

Rua do Salvador Alfama Lisbon Tasca Zip Zip2

Tasca ‘Zip Zip’ Rua do Salvador 45 Alfama, Lisbon, in the afternoon

Tourist menu 7 euro (starter, main course and dessert). Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ is a traditional Portuguese family restaurant. The atmosphere is very relaxed, the food is cheap but tasty.

Typical in historic area Alfama in Lisbon: a singing bird in a cage, this very nice bird is a Katara

Restaurant ‘Zip Zip’ in Alfama is open from Monday to Saturday from 11:00h until 24:00h. Closed: Sunday. In the smaller restaurants in Lisbon the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth and you can pay cash only.

Rua do Salvador historic area Alfama Lisbon5

Rua do Salvador, Lisbon

While walking around in this narrow old street you will discover hard working people and small shops.

Tiago Praça in his atelier, pottery Olaria Lisbon, Rua do Salvador 57

Rua do Salvador 57: pottery Olaria, handmade ceramics, tiles and much more. Probably the only pottery in Lisbon working with wheels. Here you can find a nice Portuguese souvenir from 2 euros.

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel

Vintage store & atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Alfama Lisbon

Designer Alberto Gourgel was born in Angola, a Portuguese colony from the 16th century to 1975 . In 2010 Alberto opened his atelier/store in Rua do Salvador.

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel 3

Atelier Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Here you can find all kinds of cool vintage stuff and old-fashioned suitcases decorated with original Portuguese magazines, created by Alberto. Blog: coisasdoalberto

Lisbon Alfama Rua do Salvador 83 vintage atelier shop Alberto Gourgel Amália Rodrigues

Suitcase created by Alberto: Amália Rodrigues, Lisbon’s ‘Queen of Fado’

Alberto Gourgel: “I like this very old street in Alfama, it’s a mix of old and modern Lisbon. The owner of the fish shop next door sells fish while singing fado songs. Besides I’m very glad to rent this place quite close to the Feira da Ladra’, Lisbon’s famous flea market“.

This legendary flea market is held every Tuesday and Saturday from dawn to dusk, visited by lots of tourists from all over the world.

Atelier Alberto Gourgel Lisbon cool vintage stuff Rua do Salvador 83

Atelier/store Alberto Gourgel, Rua do Salvador 83, Lisbon

Alberto: “I often find nice old stuff at auctions. Portugal is a poor country and in the past people bought their furniture when they got married for the rest of their lives. When they die the furniture often is sold at auction. Young people here like going to Ikea. But it’s not only a business, I really like what I do”.

Lisbon Rua do Salvador Alfama 10