Stylish Royale Café Lisbon: surprising patio, creative cuisine & elegant area Chiado

Entering Royale Café in Lisbon, we were pleasantly surprised by the stylish interior…. but the biggest surprise is the back patio: just lovely!

Royale Café Lisbon & lovely garden patio

Located in the elegant district Chiado in Lisbon, Royale Café offers creative  cuisine with mediterranean ingredients (great vegetarian options) and fine wines.

Royale Café Chiado area, Lisbon

Quiet patio overgrown with lovely plants

Being a group of 10 people, we were lucky still enough space was available for us.  We loved the food and the cute litte outside area, overgrown with lovely plants and with lots of shade.

Royale Café Lisbon & quiet patio July 2018

Our bill for 10 persons: 167 euro

Lunch including 2 bottles of fine wine (Quinta de S. Sebastião) and some beers. Homemade creative specialties (natural- and organic products) for a good price!  🙂 . Lovely spot for a brunch (on Sundays and bankholidays). Menu

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café’s design interior is inspired by Scandinavian cafés.

Highly recommended if you are looking for some place to go which is not just traditional Portuguese.

Royale Café Lisbon

Royale Café – very nice English speaking staff
Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
Nº29 Chiado, LISBON
Website & reservations  Facebook
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00351) 93 861 13 70   Free WiFi, dog friendly
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Royale Café Lisbon & streetside terrace, Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro
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Open: Monday – Wednesday: 12am – 10:30pm
Thursday – Friday: 12am – 11:30pm
Saturday: 12am – 04pm
Sundays & Holidays: 12am – 10:30pm
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Square Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro Lisbon (Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro)

Azulejos: The Art of Lisbon’s Tiles 

Nearby: one of the most photographed squares of Lisbon’s tiled buildings. Dating back to 1863 it is covered in pale orange and yellow tiles portraying mythological images. More…

Looking for a great place to stay in Lisbon? Check the availability calendar of my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in area Mouraria, city center

 

Authentic 3 bedr. apartment Lisbon (100 m2): lovely patio, city center, 6 pers. Smart TV & BBQ

Welcome! Short term rental (since 10 years) fully equipped apartment, in Mouraria, historic center Lisbon. Direct rent from Dutch owner.  € 60-70 per night ( 2 persons), 3 pers. € 90 p.n., 4/6 persons from € 90. From 3 nights. 5 nights or more 10 % discount. Private & very quiet patio. No separate rooms available. Eco friendly heating system.

Mouraria Lisbon apartment , walled private patio (30 m2 , very quiet). More about this area

Availabilitycalendar

Authentic apartment 100 m2 in Mouraria , old town Lisboncity center but away from the crowds 🙂 . Second floor, 3 bedrooms, free use of WiFi and satellite  smart TV.

Street: Rua do Terreirinho Lisbon.       YouTube:   The neighborhood (o bairro)

Mouraria apartment Lisbon, room & streetside bedroom 

Near starting point tram 28.     Thelisbonconnection: MY BLOG ABOUT LISBON.

RESERVATION
For information or a reservation please call 0031 653941845. WhatsApp , skype juliekr1956 or mail to thelisbonconnection@gmail.com to Julie Kruijs (owner).

Please contact me about special offers. No seperate rooms for rent.

Mouraria Lisbon apartment, in summertime, private patio (30 m2). Friends Rob Plews & Felipe Aristimuño

You will be welcomed with a fine bottle of Portugese wine! :-). Lovely patio (30 m2, walled , private and quiet, where smoking is allowed.

Area Mouraria Lisbon & Feast days of the popular Saints . Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, Saint Anthony 2018

Arrivaltime apartment: 15:00, departure: 11:00; flexibility might be possible. 

For check-in after 22:30 Euro 15 fee applies, to be paid upon arrival.

Casa rosa Mouraira Nov 15 2

October 2015: new facade, new color, casa rosa 🙂

RESERVATION
For information or a reservation please call 0031 653941845. WhatsApp , skype juliekr1956 or mail to thelisbonconnection@gmail.com to Julie Kruijs (owner).

Pictures: René van Gijn

Sleeping room apartment Mouraria Picture Emil Roes

One of the 3 sleeping rooms apartment Mouraria Lisbon

Renting directly from Dutch owner.

The apartment is 110 years old and nicely renovated.  Quite close to São Jorge‘ castle with its beautiful viewpoints.

Mouraria apartment Lisbon & kitchen with door to the patio

5 minutes walk from starting point 28 antique tourist tram, metro and buses, square Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and weekly biological markets.

Patio (30 m2) & kitchen July 2018. Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Walk in historic area Mouraria (Lisbon Lux) 

Nowadays historic area Mouraria is a multiculti and lively area filled with very cheap taverns. Not a noisy touristic area; there’s some traffic driving through the narrow one-way streets.

BBQ with friends Erik Herter & Liesbeth Niebling, Sept. 2018

Delicious dourada (gilthead bream) 🙂

From the airport (8 km), a taxi will take you (about € 10-12 ) in 15 minutes to my apartment.

Terraces Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria, September 2018. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Close to the apartment (5 minutes walk) there are quiet terraces(no cars): Largo Maria da Severa.

Nearby interesting places: Sintra, Cascais and the (also gay beach 19) beaches of Costa da Caparica.

Mouraria apartment Lisbon & room October 2017

From the apartment it is less than a 15 minutes walk to popular and vibrant area Bairro Alto, Lisbons heart of funky bars and restaurants.

Lisbon Mouraria area seen from nearby Costa do Castelo

Mouraria is a ancient area in the heart of Lisbon where fado was born.

Weather

Though it’s very far south, Lisbon’s Atlantic breezes keep it generally a little cooler than other cities on the same latitude. June is probably the best summer month to visit, especially since the Saints’ festivals fall then. Spring and fall are very pleasant, warm, and sunny. Winter tends to stay warm too, but the rain can be relentless.

Mouraria apartment Lisbon & room March 2018

March 2018: new sofa 🙂

Mouraria apartment Lisbon , March 2018: Dutch lunch (erwtensoep) with friends Liesbeth Niebling & Erik Herter 🙂

Facilitiesliving-room, 3 bedrooms, bathroom,  kitchen and pátio (30 m2)

  • living room with comfortable bank and table with 4 chairs (Linum) and 2 comfortable chairs. Smart/Satellite TV, radio/CD-player, WiFi. Double glazed windows.
  • 3 sleeping rooms with comfortable beds and windows (quiet). 6 people can sleep comfortably. New duvets and luxury duvet-covers (Essenza);
  • Chicco babybed plus mattrass ( 0-4 years), little baby bath;
  • bathroom with tub, shower, wc, bidet, washing machine and dryer (free use). Towels (no beach towels), hairdryer;
  • kitchen with 2 fridges, micro-wave, 4-burner-electric-cooker, pans, coffee-maker, fruit juicer, (wine) glasses, plates, cutlery, kitchen-linen, 2 tablecloths, etc.;
  • outside: sunny (from March – October) and quiet patio. Large wooden table, 6 comfortable chairs, 2 bamboo chairs, 1 relax chair and 2 parasols. 2 BBQs;
  • heating in all rooms via Heatwafer ecopanels, mobile airco.

Apartment Mouraria Lisbon bathroom 1

3-bedroom apartment in historic area Mouraria Lisbon: bathroom

Bathroom with tub, toilet, bidet, washing machine and dryer (free use)

Mouraria apartment Paula cleaning garden

Apartment Mouraria Lisbon: Paula Ferreira takes care of the cleaning

YOUTube movie with some beautiful highlights of Lisbon

Mouraria apartment Lisbon & quiet sleeping room with window

APARTMENT PRICES 2018/2019

Prices from May u/i August (from 3 nights):

May u/i August, Christmas holidays and holiday periods (10 % discount on bookings of 5 nights or more):

70 euro per night with 2 people, 90 with 3 people, with 4  people 100 , 5/6 persons 110/120. Child discount. Free stay children 1-4 years old.

Special offers: please inquire . 

Cleaning: 40 euro.

Patio (30 m2) apartment historical area Mouraria Lisbon: Rob, Felipe, Joanna, Fernando & lovely son Aleksander

Price from September u/i April  (except holidays and holiday periods):

60-70 euro per night with 2 people, 80 with 3 people, 4 people 90, 5/6 persons 100.. 10% discount on bookings of 5 nights or more. Child discount. Free stay children 1-4 years old.

Eco panels heating in all rooms € 25 per reservation (in wintertime).

Free use of wireless internet (no laptop available). Reservation with contract and cancellation conditions. Inclusive: electricity, gas, water, free WiFi. Cleaning: 40 euro. 

Mouraria Lisbon apartment: one of the 3 sleeping rooms (with window, very quiet)

Payment procedure: 20 % by reservation to guarantee your booking and to block the dates off for you in the calendar. You are required to do the second payment (80%) around 2 weeks before your arrival. (Pay by arrival in cash is also possible).

Mouraria 3 bedroom apartment Lisbon sunny patio from March till October

Patio (30 m2) with beautiful flowering jasmine, March 2017

My apartment is easy to reach by metro from the airport (5 minutes walk from Martim Moniz).

Noobai rooftop bar restaurant Lisbon, nightlife & amazing Tagus river views

What a view! One of the favorite places of many Lisbon locals and visitors.  Cafe Noobai is located on Miradouro (viewpoint) de Santa Catarina, also known as Adamastor.

Renewed Cafe Noobai, overlooking the Tagus River, March 2018

Relaxed ambiance & nice people

Cafe /restaurant Noobai is certainly worth a visit because of the wonderful view over the Tagus (Tejo) river side, the relaxed ambience and the nice people. One of my favorite places!

Cafe Noobai, 2015

Noobai Rooftop Bar Restaurant is located at the trendy Santa Catarina Belvedere , Lisbon

Cafe Noobai, 2010

Situated on a Lisbon hilltop Noobai has a panoramic view over the old town houses, the modern buildings, the Tagus river, the harbor, the “25 de Abril” bridge and the amazing sunset .

Rooftop Cafe Restaurant Noobai Lisbon:  delicious tuna: € 7, march 2018

Salades, sandwiches and soups, special teas and fresh juices. And of course caipirinha’s 🙂

Noobai cafe bar Adamastor

Noobai, 2010

In winter you can sit with a fleece blanket on the terrace. There’s also an indoor room 

dede-noobai

Noobai ,  2005

‘We go’

The name Noobai comes from ‘Nu bai’ which means ‘we go’ in the creole dialect from Cabo Verde, a former colony of Portugal.

dj-noobai

Sometimes on Sundays there are DJ’s playing relaxed tunes

Nightlife

Noobai is good fur a lunch or to get things started before moving on to nearby bars in Bica or Bairro Alto

Lisbon Noobai hotspot Adamastor great Tagus River views

Cafe Noobai, area Santa Catarina Lisbon

 Sunset Video 

Looking for a great place to stay in Lisbon? Check the availability calendar of my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in area Mouraria, city center

Near Adamastor Lisbon & view Tagus river March 2018

Monday – Sunday 10 AM > 12 AM

Website 

Location:Noobai, Miradouro de Santa Catarina (Adamastor) Lisboa‘ 

Lissabon Noobai 16 april 2016

Café Noobai, Lisbon. April 16, 2016

A lovely place in Lisbon 🙂 Cecile Joyce and Cristine van Haalen

Cafe Noobai Lisbon in February, near Adamastor, popular gathering place

TOPO Martim Moniz Lisbon: rooftop Restaurant , WOW! city views & open air Bar

There ‘s a gem in Lisbon with spectacular city views from the top of a shopping center: rooftop restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’ (Top) overlooking popular square Martim Moniz.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant view Martim Moniz Castle St George

View from restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ : square Martim Moniz Lisbon &  Castle of São Jorge

Located on the top floor of the shopping center at square Martim Moniz, this space was once a retail warehouse of Chinese products now being a modern restaurant / bar. Perfect place for  a lunch or a late afternoon with cocktails, snacks and good music.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant friendly staff Mafalda Malafaya

Mafalda Malafaya, Managing Director ‘Topo’ restaurant/bar Lisbon

The staff is wonderful, every time I return I am greeted with a big smile!

Being there for the first time, coming out of the elevator entering ‘Topo’ s space, the views are overwhelming! Everybody is making pictures before sitting down, just like I did 🙂 🙂

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant Erika lunch December 2015

Restaurant/bar ‘Topo’ near Mouraria area Lisbon: lunch with friend Erika Reusens

Also the menu is surprising: we started our lunch with Tosta Gambas alioli (toast with garlic prawns): € 6, Tártaro de novilho (calf beef tartare) € 14.00, Tártaro de atum (tuna tartare) € 12.00, bottle of white wine (Pinta Negra) € 15, small bottle of water € 1.50, coffee (bica) € 1.50. Our bill for 2 persons: € 50:00.

A small remark: I also tasted the Prego (a popular sandwich in Portugal) with tuna (€  11:00), but the bread was baked too hard and (for my taste) the french fries are too salty.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant square Martim Moniz open air bar

Restaurant/ bar ‘Topo’  near Mouraria area Lisbon & open air rooftop bar

Open air rooftop bar & restaurant area with glazed walls

The restaurant area is surrounded by walls of glass, and also a part of the open air rooftop bar is covered with sheets of transparent plastic.

Mouraria Lisbon rooftop Bar Topo February 2015

Rooftop bar ‘Topo’, Mouraria Lisbon. Picture: Marcel van Paridon

A wonderful space if you’re not scared of heights!  I am .. 🙁

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar Martim Moniz open air bar dec 15

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar & wonderful city skyline

Starting point touristic tram 28

The square you see from above in the restaurant is Praça Martim Moniz, nowadays with lots of terraces and weekly markets, near the starting point of tram 28, the popular touristic tram. 

Mouraria roofbar Topo Sander Offenberg

Bar / restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: rooftop bar. Sander Offenberg from Holland loves the city skyline 🙂 picture: Marcel van Paridon

Square Intendente – a great place, 10 minutes walk from here

If you love historic districts out of the tourist path, you must visit Largo (square) do Intendente, : formerly a place of prostitution and drugs, nowadays a great place to spend time with family and friends.

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar restaurant historical area Mouraria and Graca

View from bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: historic area Mouraria and the hills of Graça

From here it’s around 15 minutes to walk up the hill to visit the legendary St. George’s castle.

Bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon. Picture: Marcel van Paridon

‘Topo’ is located quite close to my apartment in area Mouraria (where the Moors lived), the birthplace of Fado music.

5 minutes walk: my 3-bedroom apartment with 30 m2 sunny patio (short term rentals)

Lisbon O TOPO rooftop bar Martim Moniz restaurant ares with city view

Bar/ restaurant ‘Topo’ Lisbon: tastefully decorated restaurant

Dining bar

In the tastefully decorated restaurant there’s a huge dining bar from where you can admire the wonderful views.  This is one of those places where you long for to go there again!

‘TOPO’
Centro Comercial Martim Moniz, 6º floor, Lisbon
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Tuesday to Thursday – 12:00 to 24:00. Closed on Monday.
Friday & Saturday – 12:00 to 02:00 (DJ set/live music)
Sunday – 12:00 to 24:00

E-mail: geral@topo-lisboa.pt

Facebook

Top tourist attraction Lisbon: bronze sculpture Portuguese poet Pessoa, a poem & history

The bronze sculpture in Lisbon of Portugal’s famous writer and poet Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935) is extremely popular.

Lisbon cafe A Brasileira tourist attraction statue Fernando Pessoa

Sculpture of famous poet Fernando Pessoa, kissed by a young girl, almost 80 years after his death!   🙁

Top tourist attraction

Famous cafe ‘A Brasileira’  ‘s terrace in Lisbon (Rua Garrett 120) is a real tourist attraction. Poet Fernando Pessoa once was a regular customer. His table in bronze was created by Lagoa Henriques.

Pessoa statue Rua Garett A Brasileira9

Famous old cafe ‘A Brasileira’  (‘The Brazilian’, opened in 1905) Lisbon, Rua Garrett

Who was poet and writer Fernando Pessoa?

Pessoa was largely unknown in Portugal until after his death in 1935. The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists nowadays, all day long!

Lisbon Pessoa statue Rua Garrett & friend Hans

Sculpture poet Fernando Pessoa Lisbon & Dutch admirer Hans

‘The best way to travel is to feel’ Pessoa wrote, ‘so feel everything in every possible way.’ Pessoa was born in Lisbon in 1888.

Apart from his high school years which he spent with his mother and half brothers in South Africa, he lived in Lisbon without a break, without taking public holidays, without traveling abroad. He did so with the help of heteronyms, inventing many lives (and cities) out of his own, spent between the Chiado area, where he lived.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcada table Pessoa famous Portuguese writer

Quality Restaurant Martinho da Arcade, Lisbon.

Restaurant Martinho da Arcade Lisbon & Pessoa’s table

Portugal’s famous poet and writer Pessoa spent a lot of his time in cafes (like Cafe Martinho da Arcada, where he wrote and drank a lot . He died in 1935, aged 47.

Pessoa’s table is still there…

Fernando Pessoa

Fernando Pessoa

Casa (house) Fernando Pessoa, Rua Coelho da Rocha, 16, Campo de Ourique.

Open from Monday – Saturday 10:00-18:00.

Pessoa drawing Travessa do Sequeiro

Drawing Fernando Pessoa, Travessa do Sequiero Lisbon

“Acordar”, poem by Álvaro de Campos, one of Fernando Pessoa’s various ‘heteronyms’ (imaginary characters).

“Acordar da cidade de Lisboa mais tarde do que as outras
Acordar da Rua do Ouro
Acordar do Rossio, as portas dos cafés
Acordar…..
E no meio de tudo a gare, que nunca dorme
Como um coração que tem que pulsar através de vigilia e do sono”

“The waking up of Lisbon, later than other cities
The waking up of Rua do Ouro
The waking up of Rossio Square, at the doors of its cafes
Waking up…..
And in the middle of it all the train station, which never rests
Like a heart that has to beat in both waking and sleeping hours”

Pessoa drawing Rua 1 Dezembro Lisbon

Rua Primeiro de Dezembro, April 2009

Looking for a vacation apartment in Lisbon? My 3-bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals).

Lisbon historic area Mouraria 2018: eating, shopping, bars, art, sexy, fado & Mariza

Area Mouraria is a historical 900 years old area in the heart of Lisbon where fado music was born. Nowadays it’s a multicultural area but still authentic  🙂

Lisbon Largo do Terreirinho area Mouraria march 2018

Cafe/restaurant Minutos Gulosos‘ (‘greedy moments’), Largo das Olarias no. 1 : great for breakfast ! Cafe € 0.55, fresh juice € 2:20, sandwich € 1.40

Arroz de gambas (rice & shrimps)

Rice and shrimps (delicious!), a glass of white wine, a small bottle of water and coffee : around 10 euro.  Restaurant ‘Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon

Traditional Portuguese food, snacks, and a free smile  🙂

YouTube about area Mouraria         Facebook 

Restaurant ‘A Catedral do Fado’ area Mouraria Lisbon: traditional Portuguese food

Traditional Portuguese restaurants

Nowadays area Mouraria in Lisbon is still filled with old taverns and small restaurants, serving traditional Portuguese food for local prices. In contrary to the more touristical historic areas, like Alfama or Bairro Alto, where prices in  restaurants are mostly much higher.

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon, Rua João do Outeiro, June 2018

Peaceful multicultural area

Colorful Mouraria area embraces the past and the present. A multicultural area, where many nationalities live together peacefully. Nowadays it is a popular and fashionable part of Lisbon. Currently,  it is gradually renovated.

Party time in area Mouraria in the month of June:  Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints, Lisbon’s craziest night)

Local prices

Bairro (area) Mouraria is located in the historic heart of Lisbon. Still less touristic and therefore much purer. Local prices in most of the restaurants.

Mouraria Lisbon, June 2017, restaurant Zé da Mouraria

In a small street of one of Lisbon’s oldest districts there’s Restaurant ‘Zé da Mouraria’. Well-priced Portuguese dishes and very nice people. Lunches only. (Air-conditioned in summertime).

Thomas Kahler (Dutch origin) in his atelier in Lisbon, Rua das Olarias, 2018.

Atelier Thomas Kahler

Stage designer by profession, Thomas Kahler works with wood, producing pieces such as tables, chairs and decorative objects. He studied Sculpture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Holland.

Guitar whisperer 😉

Thomas is also a musician: he plays the guitar and also the
accordion. He creates his own guitars. Facebook
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‘Cafe Belga’ area Mouraria Lisbon & (typical Belgian? 😉  )sexy bathroom decor
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In the same street (Rua das Olarias 37), there’s Café Belga, specializing in Belgian-inspired food and a variety of fine Belgian beers.
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Tuk Tuk cars Mouraria Lisbon. Picture: Henk van de Weerd
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Eco-friendly (silent) Tuk Tuk cars
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Everywhere in Lisbon there’re the cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly! Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned in 2019. More……
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Bar Flamingo Lisbon June 12, 2017: Lisbon’s craziest night, party time!

Flamingo Bar in area Mouraria  is a surprising place for night owls (till 03:00). The bathroom is remarkable! Margriet, Rob and Lilja

Saturday Night Fever!  😉

Bar Flamingo reopened in May 2018.   

 Facebook

Organic grocery store Bomercado, opened in Mouraria Lisbon in 2018.

Organic shop Bomercado in Lisbon provides groceries, fruit, vegetables and fresh bread,  Portuguese biological wines and much more. Good prices, highly recommended!  Shopowner Frank is sympathetic and knowledgeable.

Facebook     Rua Dos Cavaleiros 10 Lisboa

Restaurant owner José Maria

Restaurant ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58, Lisbon

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese dishes! 
Typical Portuguese restaurants are a little bit disorderly, but very clean with a big TV screen (people like watching TV while eating, football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers.

MORE about this small cafe/restaurant….

Restaurant Jose Maria & Laurinda area Mouraria Lisbon

Bill for 3 persons around 30 euro. Eating grilled sardines, especially in the month of June, is a tradition.

Tiny restaurant, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28.

Square Martim Moniz Lisbon, starting point tram 28

​This is where the historic area Mouraria starts, close to the starting point of the legendary tram 28.
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Nearby, a very cozy (hidden) terrace:
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Restaurant Beco do Forno, located in a little side street of Rua dos Cavaleiros: 

Lunch with Pedro & Dina : patio restaurant Beco do Forno

Cozy terrace in a courtyard 🙂 . A small narrow street gives access to the patio of Restaurant Beco do Forno (litt. Oven Alley).  Very friendly owners​.

Restaurant Beco do Forno: Beco dos Cavaleiros no. 11

Our bill for 3 persons 27 euro: grilled sea bass (robalo) with cooked potatoes and vegetables, pato (duck with rice), steak with fries and mixed salad, wine and dessert.

Entrance Restaurant Beco do Forno & bakery Doce Mila area Mouraria Lisbon

Fado Vadio (amateur fado singers)

On all Saturdays there’s Fado Vadio in restaurant Beco do Forno: from 13:00 – 18:00. Lunch menu (3 courses,  15.50 €).      Website      Facebook

Pastelaria (Bakery) Doce Mila Mouraria Lisbon

Mila’s Cakes (Doce Mila)

Great place for breakfast, a home-made delicious piece of cake or a typical Portuguese delicacy: pastel de nata.
Famous: Doce Mila (Mila’s cakes, name of the owner). Beco dos Cavaleiros 15
Largo São Cristóvão, area Mouraria Lisbon
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The many winding alleys still show the traces of the 500 years of Moorish domination (from 711-1249). 
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It is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).
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One of the restaurants nearby is ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow), one of my favorites!
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The Portuguese language is peppered with words of Arabic origin, often those relating to food, farming and manual work. One commonly used is oxalá – a direct descendent of insha’Allah, the term meaning “God willing.  More….
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Square Restaurant O Corvo & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree
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Nowadays the Moorish quarter in Lisbon is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
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Picture: Henk van de Weerd

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It is said that Fado music was born in area Mouraria around 1820.

At the same square there’s  restaurant BRUTA FLOR (international cuisine)

Tiny Ginja Bar ‘Amigas da Severa‘ & live fado performance at midnight

Must-try: taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur:”Ginja!  

Famous Fado singer Mariza ,  started her career in Mouraria where she grew up and performed many times. Mariza  YouTube

My apartment in Mouraria Lisbon & patio, July 2018

Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier

Looking for a great place to stay in historic area Mouraria? Check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with a lovely patio  🙂

Ó! Galeria, Illustration gallery, Calçada de Santo André 86, Mouraria Lisbon

YouTube: area Mouraria Lisbon

Fado restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon: Maria Severa, first fadista & femme fatale

A city break to Lisbon is not complete without a night with fado, the melancholy Portuguese music. Good fado has its home in historical areas Alfama or Mouraria, like in restaurant/bar ‘Maria da Mouraria‘, the former house of Lisbon’s first fadista: ‘Maria da Severa’ .

Mourara Lisbon in June Rua do Capelao Portuguese fado guitar

Mouraria , cradle of fado’ Lisbon in June (Santo Antonio festivities): Rua do Capelão (& fado monument), entrance to fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’.

Lisbon, area Mouraria: Rua do Capelão

Fado is very traditional to Portugal. It is a song expressing sadness, longing, love, passion and life (saudade) The fado singer is often dressed in black, accompanied by a Portuguese guitarra and it is sung by men and women. You are expected to be quiet when the fado is sung in fado houses.

Usually the fado singing starts from 10pm.

Casa da Severa fado house Mouraria Lisbon 1

Rosinha de Braga fadista Fado bar/restaurant ‘Maria da Mouraria’ Lisbon

The Portuguese blues

No district in Lisbon is more praised for fado music than Lisbon’s historic Mouraria area. It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people were at the base of fado (meaning fate) music, often described as the Portuguese blues.

Mouraria 'Casa da Maria da Severa' november 2013

Mouraria Lisbon, restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Largo da Severa 2.

It is said that Maria da Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was created (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to the legendary singer, considered by many as the first fadista. She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.

Square Largo da Severa, Mouraria Lisbon, September 2018

Square Largo da Severa has been renovated in recent years. Quiet atmosphere, because no cars can come here. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

Who was Maria da Severa?

Maria Severa first Portuguese fadista Lisbon Mouraria

Teatro da Revista (a sort of vaudeville theatre) Lisbon: Revue about Maria da Severa’s life

Maria is said to have been a tall and gracious prostitute, and would sing the fado in taverns, were she encounters a Count, Armando de Vimioso, bohemian, and a celebrated and aristocratic bullfighter. After Maria sings for Armando, a passionate romance begins. Armando’s mother, Constanca, forbids the romance, being a scandal in the family! The House of the Counts of Vimioso had also close links with the Portuguese royal family.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria fadista Tania Oleiro

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: talented fadista Tania Oleiro, accompanied by Ricardo Parreira and Marco Oliveira

People who like to gather here are musicians, actors, journalists and residents of surrounding neighborhoods. Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, works as an extension to the Fado Museum. To better understand the history of Lisbon’s song, it is essential to visit the museum, located in the nearby area Alfama.

Fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon & Saint Anthony’s feast days in June (2018)

You can have dinner, or just enjoy some snacks and a couple of drinks.  We were surprised by fadista Tania Oleiro and the delights of a good dinner (from 20:00 pm).  If you wish to dine here, make a reservation.

Casa Maria da Severa Lisbon Mouraria dinner feb 14 3 Josephine e Jorge

Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, Lisbon: dinner with friends Josephine Lucassen (tourist guide) and Jorge Torres

Dinner & fado music: € 35- 45 per person

Our dinner:  Peixinhos da Horta (fried green beans), prato do dia (dish of the day: pork liver) € 13,90, bacalhau (cod fish) € 16,90, bife € 15,90, and 2 bottles of red wine € 21,80.

Maria da Mouraria fado restaurant & tapas menu for 3 persons 2016: 90 euro

YouTube movie about the area and people who live here , trying to sing fado :-)

Mouraria Lisbon Rua do Capelao street portraits fado singers

Rua do Capelão Mouraria Lisbon: famous fado singers & beautiful wall portraits in the streets: Amália Rodrigues, Fernanda Maria & Francisco Martinho

Retratos do Fado – Um tributo à Mouraria. (Portraits of Fado – A tribute to Mouraria). This is a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas with a strong connection to the neighbourhood. A great idea! Created by British photographer Camilla Watson , who has been living in the area for 6 years.

kATIA gUERREIRO Largo da Severa FADO 2

Summer 2013: Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon: fadista Katia Guerreiro enchants the audience

Helder Moutinho (Portuguese fado singer & songwriter) & Maria da Mouraria

In summertime you can enjoy well-known fado performers in front of ‘Casa ‘Maria da Mouraria’, (YouTube). Film screenings, book readings and performers are the responsibility of Helder Moutinho.

Fado House ‘Maria da Mouraria’Largo da Severa in Mouraria Lisbon.

In summertime the terrace is open for drinks and petiscos (‘tapas’).

Dining from 20:00 – 02:00. Open from Tuesdays to Sundays (incl. Fado). No creditcards.  Largo da Severa Nº2/2B.  Trams 15, 28 , metro square Martim Moniz.

Reservations: (00351) 96 476 60 56. Facebook    Website

10 minutes walk from this square: my 3 bedroom apartment & lovely patio (30 m2)

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with lovely patio

Tiny Ginja bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon: popular berry liqueur & midnight fado

Planning a trip to Lisbon? A must-try is to taste a delicious typical Portuguese liqueur: Ginja!  Very popular! You can taste it in many places in Lisbon. My favorite: very tiny bar ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ (friends of Maria Severa, considered as the first fado singer).

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Ginja liqueur April15 2

Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais serving Ginja liqueur

In the nowadays trendy area Mouraria (a very old Moorish quarter in Lisbon), there’s a tiny tavern called ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ . Already 40 years sr. António Pais is the very friendly owner.  

‘Shot’ of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur: 1 euro 🙂  Glass of red or white wine: 0.50 eurocent  🙂 

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa street tourists

Tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon, Rua de Barros Queiros 27 Lisbon

10 min. walk from Rossio Square

Most people who visit Lisbon try a glass of Ginja at Rossio Square, a city center tourist attraction, but it’s really worth it to walk 10 minutes from there to sr. António, and taste his favorite Ginja Albergaria, Ginja is a liqueur made of cherry-like berry called Ginja (not surprisingly 😉  The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.

My 100 m2 apartment with 3 bedrooms and lovley patio is 5 minutes walk from here (short term rentals)

Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa Felipe

Tiny tavern ‘Os amigos da Severa’ Mouraria Lisbon & amigo Felipe Aristimuño

Portuguese liqueur in Lisbon: Ginja with or without a cherry & spit the pit

You can order a Ginja with or without a cherry in it. The berries are on the bottom of the bottle and it requires a fair bit of skill to get just one berry into a glass. Most Portuguese people like to have their Ginjinhacom Ginja’ (with a cherry in the glass). If you don’t want it, ask for one ‘sem Ginja’ (without a cherry). The older Portuguese men drink their Ginja in one time. After this, they suck on the berry for a while and spit the pit onto the streets 🙁

Lisbon cafe Amigos da Severa Mouraria Luc e Erika fado

Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight

Vocal cords & Ginja liqueur

The more lubricated the vocal cords are, the better the fado performance! A few glasses of Ginja give a great boost!  😉 A remarkable night in Mouraria with Erika Reusens and Luc de Leersnyder
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa people street live fado
Tiny tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ historic area Lisbon & live fado music around midnight
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Maria Severa, a gracious prostitute and first fado singer of Lisbon
The tavern is located close to square Largo Maria Severa, the area where Maria lived during the nineteenth century, considered by many the first fado singer of Lisbon. The atmosphere of fado is everywhere in this little bar: by photos and posters accumulated on the walls, and the singing coming out of Mr. António’s radio.
Lisbon Mouraria tiny tavern Os Amigos da Severa owner sr. Antonio Pais May15
Saude! (cheers!) Tavern ‘Os Amigos da Severa’ Lisbon & owner sr. António Pais
Area Mouraria : fado history & trendy area
Mouraria saw the birth of two great fado names – Maria Severa and Fernando Maurício. Nowadays the Moorish quarter is a melting pot of different cultures, living peacefully together 🙂 . There’re Fado houses, cheap (but good!) restaurants, taverns, bars and nightlife.
Where: Rua do Capelão, n.º 32
Getting there: Bus: 708, 734, 740 | Electric: 12, 28 | Metro: Martim Moniz (green line)
Hours: Monday to Friday from 18pm, Saturday and Sunday from 16pm to 02:00 am
Next door: restaurant/bar & fado house ‘Maria da Mouraria’. Foto: Henk van de Weerd, September 2018
It is said that Maria Severa was born in this house, that’s why this place was renewed (in 2013) to promote fado as a tribute to this legendary singer.  She died here, at the age of 26 years old, November 30, 1846.
Lisbon bar ANOS 60 Festas populares Santo Antonio night June 12 15
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Mouraria Lisbon in June & June 12,

Noisy Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon: sightseeing, polution & eco-friendly silent Tuk Tours

The last few years Tuk-Tuk cars are gaining more popularity among tourists in Lisbon. You see them everywhere in the city: cute little cars, but most of them make a lot of noise and they stink terribly !  🙁  🙁

Largo Maria da Severa Mouraria Lisbon & an eco-friendly Tuk Tuk

Mouraria is a very old neighborhoud with narrow streets where big tourist buses cannot get through.

UPDATE 2018: Electric charging points will soon be installed in Lisbon and diesel tuk tuks will be banned in 2019

🙂  🙂

Apartment historic area Mouraria Lisbon & lovely quiet , private patio

My 3 bedroom apartment in this area with lovely patio (30 m2) (short term rentals)

YouTube Movie Tuk Tuk Tour Lisbon

September 2018. Picture: Henk van de Weerd

‘Do you like to Tuk-Tuk with me’ ? 😉 Voulez-vous Tuk-Tuk avec moi? 😉  I saw a car with a led display using this text in several languages. These little Tuk Tuk vehicles are most ideal for short trips and sightseeing and capable to drive through the small streets in the ancient historical neighborhoods of Lisbon like Alfama and Mouraria.

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Eco Tours Martim Moniz may 14 1

Lisbon Square Martim Moniz: lots of tourists are waiting for legendary electric tram 28

Square Martim Moniz : starting point of the legendary old tram 28

Nowadays several owners of Tuk-Tuk cars are trying to persuade you to take a tour (from 45 – 60 euro for one hour), but a ride with ‘elétrico’ tram 28 will also bring you to most tourist attractions of Lisbon….and much cheaper (around 4 euro pp).

Tuk Tuk Lisbon Tuk Tuk Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho sept 14

Historic area Mouraria Lisbon: street small restaurant Jose- Maria & Laurinda

Tuk-Tuk cars, origin & polution

The Tuk-Tuk cars often run on diesel and some very old ones are imported from Asia. Auto rickshaws of Southeast Asia started from the knockdown production of the Daihatsu Midget which had been introduced in 1957. There are too many of them in Lisbon  🙁  🙁

Tuk Tuk Lisboa Baixa sept 14

Tuk-Tuk cars Lisbon downtown city center & elegant shopping area Rua Garrett

Young enthusiastic drivers & Tuk-Tuk cars

One of the advantages of the tuk-tuk cars in Lisbon is the possibility making trips with young and enthusiastic people, who speak several languages. Most of them are especially trained to talk about the historic sites of Lisbon.

Eco friendly Tul Tours Lisbon f1 2

Eco friendly Tuk car in Lisbon, historic area Alfama

Eco (and silent!) Tuk Tours Lisbon

I have no commercial interest but maybe this article helps to make Lisbon cleaner!  😉 😉

Website Tuk Tours (more info and reservations)

Eco Tuk Tours Lisbon narrow streets old town Lisbon 3

Eco friendly Tuk Tour old town Lisbon: narrow streets of Alfama

Restaurant & shop Lost In Lisbon: magical Indian-style, great city views & shrimp curry

Restaurant/cafe Lost In is one of the most magical places in Lisbon: fantastic city views and an inviting hangout Indian-style decoration.

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon & terrace June 2018

A while ago I bought a beautiful Indian-style coat in the imposant Lost In  clothing store, Rua dom Pedro V no. 58. The nice saleswoman asked: ‘Did you already visit  the restaurant behind the store? No? From here it is possible to enter the restaurant’. What a surprise!  🙂

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon & terrace June 2018

Peace & tranquility

The view over the city was wonderful, even though it was a cloudy day. Lost In  is a chill-out ambiance. When you enter this space, you immediately feel the peace and tranquility it conveys.

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon June 2018 & Loesje Broere

Shanti (inner peace)
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It is said to be the “shanti place of Lisbon”. I am not religious nor interested in esotericism, but for those looking for relaxation after a busy day this is a great place.
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Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon June 2018: waiters Samuel & Patrik

Caril de gambas com arroz basmati, legumes salteados e papadam € 14. (Shrimp curry with basmati rice, sauteed vegetables and papadam).

Bill for 2 persons  € 56 ( shrimps, wine, water, icecream and coffee).

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon & shrimps: very flavorful

The staff is friendly and chatty, speaking a variety of languages.

The 2 lovely young waiters gave 2 older ladies like us the idea being young again  😉  😉

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon June 2018

We had a great afternoon amongst Indian couches and sofas, candles, colored comfortable chairs, statues, paintings & Indian shoes hanging on the walls.

For lunch there’s a daily menu (prato do dia) : € 10.00.

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon June 2018

The music is calm, with a strong focus on jazz  🙂 (the day we’ve been there). Restaurant Lost In VIDEO 

On Thursdays there is a jazz session from 9:50 p.m. to 11:50 p.m. and besides there’s frequent oriental dance events or DJ’s.  More info: Lost In facebook

Restaurant/cafe Lost In Lisbon & very friendly manager Rita Teixeira

Lost In
Rua dom Pedro V no. 58
Príncipe Real Lisbon
Phone: (351) 917 759 282

Monday : 16:00 – 24:00  Facebook  Website
Tuesday to Saturday : 12:30 – 24:00

Lost In Lisbon Shop :  clothes from India & very friendly saleswomen

Clothing store with typically Indian style with Arab influences.  Facebook

Looking for a great place to stay in Lisbon? Check the availability calendar of my 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio in area Mouraria, city center

Lost In Lisbon Shop: clothes from India & much more beautiful stuff!

Cafe restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) Lisbon: fantastic food & a ‘sweater-wearing’ tree

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ (The Crow) in area Mouraria Lisbon is one of my favorites. This part of the city is still quite authentic, although tourism has increased the last few years.

Largo dos Trigueiros, historic area Mouraria Lisbon & a ‘sweater’ wearing beautiful tree 🙂

A bit hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lisbon’s city center there’s a wonderful small square surrounded with colourful old houses, and a small old fountain in the middle. Just lovely!

10 minutes walk from this little square: my authentic 3-bedroom apartment with lovely private patio in Mouraria (short term rentals).

2016: Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) Largo dos Trigueiros, Lisbon

Small terrace pleasantly shaded by a tree

Square Largo dos Trigueiros, once forgotten and lined with cars, is nowadays one of the coolest places of Lisbon. In march 2016 cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo’ opened his doors. 

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ (The Crow) & beautiful little fountain

Knitted graffiti

In summertime the terrace is shaded by the spreaded branches of a beautiful tree with a colourful ‘sweater’ wrapped around the trunk : knitted graffiti

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon

Menu

The menu offers affordable meals: a variety of dishes, also vegetarian. Opened in March 2016, cafe-restaurant ‘O Corvo’ is a friendly, easy-going place serving homemade foccacia among others, and homemade cakes.

August 2018: Dorade (larded with peppers)  € 12, 50. Delicious!

Entrecôte (500 gr) for 2 persons, potatoes and salad € 28; um copo de vinho tinto/vinho branco (a glass of red or white wine) € 2,60;  small bottle of water € 1,80, coffee € 1,00.

September 2017:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon: entrecôte for 2 persons

Mix and match of antique furniture

Inside the restaurant there ‘s a mix and match of antique furniture, vintage pieces, wooden movie chairs, stone-clad tables and sofas from the last century. Everything recovered and in good condition.

Home made chocolate cake  € 3:60

When entering restaurant O Corvo it seems that it ‘s only one space and an open kitchen (very nice people!) but there’s another, greater room. The place is suitable for a group (50 seats).

September 2018:  Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘ Lisbon & Margriet de Vrieze

Historic area Mouraria

The cobblestoned former Moorish quarter, roughly between the Castle of Saint George (São Jorge) and Rossio square, is a friendly and super-central neighborhood where Fado was born and which today presents a mix of long-time residents and a multicultural community, complemented by artists, students and other young people.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & nearby street with photos on the walls

Area Mouraria in Lisbon is a muddle of narrow streets, stairs and small squares, which gives the visitor a glimpse of a forgotten age. Houses painted in several pastel colours or covered with antique tiles (Portuguese: azulejos).

Area Mouraria Lisbon & photo printed on wood

Photographer Camilla Watson : fabulous photos printed on wood

Um tributo à Mouraria (‘A tribute to Mouraria): a permanent exhibition of fabulous photos printed on wood on the walls of the streets in a tribute to fadistas or people with a strong connection to the neighborhood. Amazing!

British photographer Camilla Watson has been living in this area for 6 years.

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon & one of the spaces

Location & how to get there:

10 min. walk from startingpoint tram 28, square Martim Moniz: walk via Rua da Madalena, then go up the stairs (Beco dos Surradores) until Largo dos Trigueiros , and turn right. 

YouTube: Square Largo dos Trigueiros & stairs to reach the restaurant

Cafe/restaurant ‘O Corvo‘, area Mouraria Lisbon
Largo dos Trigueiros 15A-15B Lisbon
Facebook  Phone: +351 21 886 0545
Super friendly staff, they all speak fluently English 🙂

Lisbon: how to recognize cheap good Portuguese restaurants & José Maria & Laurinda

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron.

Lisbon cheap restaurant Jose Mouraria

Pataniscas de Bacalhau & rice 7.50 euro (fried cod): delicious!

Tiny place, good traditional Portuguese food! Historical area in Mouraria, Lisbon. 

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58: José Maria & his wife Laurinda.   

Restaurant Mouraria Rua do Terreirinho Laurinda & Jose Marie March 15

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginha’, Rua do Terreirinho 58 Lisbon

 Owners Laurinda, Jose Marie & sr. Julio (l), April 2015

The Portuguese cuisine is rich, filling and full-flavoured. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Restaurant Jose Marie & Paula bacalhau a bras January 2017

Restaurant José Maria in Mouraria Lisbon January 2017

Lunch with Paula: delicious bacalhau à brás  (salt cod): 6 euro pp

Portuguese breakfast

Traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a cafe (pastelaria). Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de nata, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão – garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

dutch ladies 4 feb Jose Marie lunch

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon Restaurant José Maria & his wife Laurinda

Lunch with Dutch friends, February 4, 2015: Denise, Jolanda, Margriet and Feikje

mouraria-jose-marie-erna-deegens-september-2016

September 2016: Erna and Tonny Deegens & friends Marijn and Anneke

Good quality & local prices

In this tiny restaurant in Mouraria you can enjoy a 3 course meal (starter, like cheese/ham, soup, main course, dessert, water, coffee and wine) for only about 9-10 euros pp. Not open on Sundays.

Restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda delicious bitoque

For me, Laurinda’s bitoque is the best of Lisbon 🙂  🙂

If you don’t feel like experimenting, try abitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice (ca. 7 euro).

Caldeirada (fish stew) : 6.50 euro. Recipe 

Looking for a nice 3-bedroom apartment (and a lovely patio) in this old neighborhood? (6 persons can sleep comfortably)

My apartment in Mouraria (100 m2), 3 bedrooms & lovely patio (30 m2). Picture: Margaret Schöttelndreier.

More about the area

Short time rental3 bedroom holiday apartment with sunny patio in this street

Laurinda Restaurant Mouraria fesh fish

Laurinda & delicious fresh fish

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine).

Eating & drinking Portugal displays and football

Football

There’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen, football (futebol!) is also really important….!! 😉

Lisbon be prepared free strarters

Starters, typical Portuguese (not free in more expensive restaurants)

Be prepared: in the more expensive restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao) (from 3 – 10 euro).

Unrequested starter dishes

You won’t pay for starters if you don’t eat them, the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), ‘no thank you’. The waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it, especially in restaurants with lots of tourists!).

Or, they ‘offer’ you a glass of portwine (and charge 4-7 euro on the bill). Tips are not usual in Portugal, but a few euro is ok.

Restaurant Carmar Lisbon Espetada near Martim Moniz

Espetada: a typical Portuguese dish: 6.90 €

The espetada is a typical Portuguese dish made usually of large chunks of beeff rubbed in garlic and salt, skewered onto a bay leaf stick cooked over hot coals or wood chips.

Carne de porco à Alentejana Lisbon Mouraria cheap restaurants

Carne de porco à Alentejana 

Carne de porco à Alentejana (pork stew with clams, potatoes, coriander and garlic. Meia dose, ( half portion, 6.00  euro).This is a traditional Portuguese dish, particularly near the Atlantic coast.

Lunch (almoçar): between 12:00 and 15:00. Dinner from 19:00

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant (and often paid by the employer).

Menu list with 2 price columns

When dining in Lisbon, you will notice that some restaurants have a menu list with 2 price columns. The cheaper list is for half-portions (meia dose), the higher priced list is for full-portions (dose)

Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like f.i. caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes).

Eating drinking Lisbon Caldo Verde soup

Caldo Verde, a popular soup of Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine.

Fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol).

Restaurant Casa da india Frango chicken piri piri

Chicken (frangopiri-piri (the African devil..), is also a very popular dish. Restaurant Casa da Índia, in Bairro Alto 

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela.

Lisbon cheap restaurants bill paper cover

Mouraria Lisbon, tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda

Bill: no credit cards

In the smaller restaurants the bill is usually written on the paper table cloth…you can pay cash only. Our bill for 2 persons? 20 euro, incl. a glass of home made Aguardente bagaceira……(litt. firewater)

Mouraria Lisbon Street tiny restaurant Jose Marie & Laurinda nov 14

Mouraria, Rua do Terreirinho 58  Lisbon near starting point legendary yellow tram 28

Street view from tiny restaurant Marie-Jose and Laurinda, 3 minutes walk from lively square Martim Moniz and starting point legendary tram 28, a ‘must do’ Lisbon attraction!

Mouraria Lisbon restaurant Jose Marie e Laurinda jan 16

January 2016

Restaurant/cafe ‘A Vaidosa Terreirinho Ginginhain area Mouraria

Rua do Terreirinho 58 Lisbon

Restaurant & bar LESS Baixa Lisbon: stunning city views, lounge chairs & elegant simple cuisine

Years ago I discovered a small cafe on the 8th floor of a huge department store in Lisbon : good coffee (bica), a pastel de nata .. and stunning city views!

Restaurant & bar LESS in Lisbon: this view will never be boring! 🙂

Restaurant & bar LESS & 8th floor classic department store Pollux

In 2017 restaurant & bar LESS was opened, on the 8th floor of department store Pollux (9 floors, 5.000 m2), founded in 1936, offering typical Portuguese luxury items for home decoration and household goods.

Restaurant & bar LESS in Lisbon: legendary Santa Justa Lift
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Makeover in 2017
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The terrace, offering views of the legendary Santa Justa lift and the ruins of the Convento do Carmo, (Carmo Convent) used to have a small cafe with plastic tables (a hidden gem..)
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Basic snacks, soups and coffees were served nearby products for sale in the store such as plastic flowers, garden chairs and camping tables.
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Cafe/restaurant LESS Lisbon & view river Tagus
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In September 2017 the entire 8th floor of the department store was transformed into a modern casual dining space serving delicious food (Chef: Miguel Castro Silva) .
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Restaurant & Bar LESS Lisbon & 8th floor Pollux store, September 4, 2018
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Delicious lunch with Margarethe de Vrieze.
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Restaurant & Bar LESS Lisbon
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Appetizer, smoked salmon tartar with horsera dish cream, soup, leek risotto with cod shavings, water & 2 glasses of house wine: 33 euro.
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Restaurant & Bar LESS Lisbon & 8th floor Pollux store, March 2018
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‘Are you being served?’
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BESIDES: When I entered the Pollux department store for the first time, around 16 years ago, the old-fashioned atmosphere and the (good) hierarchical service-model reminded me a little bit of the legendary British sitcom  “Are you being served?’ 😉 (YouTube), broadcasted between 1972 and 1985.
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Restaurant & Bar LESS Lisbon, March 2018
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The new menu card is very inviting! We were in the mood for trying a Burger on bread with potatoe chips, spices , red onions, mushrooms, onions & Port wine: very tasty!
Bill: Couvert (marinated olives, aromated butters, bread and toast) € 4.50; Burger Mushroom € 8.80; Coca-Cola € 3.00, small bottle of water € 2.00; coffee € 1.20
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Restaurant & Bar LESS Lisbon, 2018: new dining space & terrace
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LESS Restaurant & Bar 
Baixa, Lisbon WEBSITE 
 
The restaurant can only be reached by taking the elevator in department store Pollux: 8th floor. Rua dos Fanqueiros, 276, Lisbon.
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Restaurant & Bar LESS Lisbon, March 2018
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Muito obrigada João and Samanta 🙂  . Chef restaurant LESS: Miguel Castro Silva
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Looking for a great place to stay in Lisbon ? Check the availability calendar of my nearby 3-bedroom apartment with lovely patio.
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Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: from fresh fish to funeral flowers & 750 seats foodhall

Near the Cais do Sodre train station, on the other side of the road, you will see the beautiful building of the Mercado da Ribeira (market near the river, since 1882), topped with a Moorish-style dome. Worth a visit!

Mercado da Ribeira

Market Mercado da Ribeira, near the river Tejo, Lisbon

Market: open daily 05:00 – 14:00. Closed on Sundays. Address: Avenida 24 de Julho Lisbon.

Mercado Da Ribeira overview market

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon open food market

The cities biggest open food market is selling everything: from inky octopus and fresh seafood to fabulous fruit, from real Portugese products like ‘hot’ piri-piri to funeral flowers waiting for a dead body…..   :-(

Mercado da Ribeiro Lisbon funeral flowers

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: funeral flowers

This is Lisbon’s cheapest market. The seafood forms a large part of the Portuguese cuisine with 1001 ways to cook it. Bacalhau is the Portuguese name for cod, a very popular fish, so much that they have a different bacalhau recipe for each day of the year!

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon: every day fresh fish

There really is something to find for everyone  :-(

Looking for an authentic apartment in the historical center of Lisbon (short term rentals)? My 3 bedroom apartment (100 m2) with lovely private patio (30 m2)

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon June 2014 Pig

Market Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon

In 2007 the market celebrated a 125 year of existence: beautiful pictures are on the walls from fish sellers (varinas) of the Ribeira Market from a hundred years ago, when the fishermen moored their ship here to sell the fresh fish.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Varinas

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon fish seller (varina, year: 1900)

On Sunday mornings there is a Collectors fair from 09:00-14:00, like coins and stamps. The 2nd floor of the market has also been converted into a touristy ‘cultural’ centre. It sells locally produced items such as port and honey, and handicrafts.

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out gastronomical area Gal

Next to the food market: TIME OUT foodhall & gastronomical area representing the best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon

The area gathers about 30 spaces, providing around 750 seats. The best restaurants and chefs of Lisbon are represented.
TIME OUT foodhall & gastronomical area September 2018
The idea is simple: you grab the food and drinks from one or several restaurants of your choice (not necessarily the same as your family and friends), and go sit in the food court where you’ll be able to interact with everyone there.
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Mercado da Ribeira (River Market) Lisbon: Time Out magazine food pavilion

Traditional Portuguese sandwiches & nails

Did you ever try a traditional Portuguese sandwich like the Prego? or a Bifana (pork)?  a Prego is the most popular and incredible garlic steak sandwich in the Portuguese cuisine for many years. The Portuguese eat the prego’s (literally: nails, referring to the full stomach after eating one ;-)   with mustard or piri-piri)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon Food Hall: Portuguese petiscos (tapas)

Petiscos (Portuguese tapas)

Small plate dishes are called petiscos in Portugal, so basically the same as Spanish tapas. (More….  ). Don’t say this to the Portuguese, the Spanish invasion (1762) is still fresh in their memory…. ;-)

Mercado da Ribeira petiscos tapas March 2015 atum

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon & petiscos (tapas)

Cozinha da Felicidade (petiscos a portuguesa):

Atum com batata doce (tuna and sweet potatoes) 9.50 euro, agua sem gas (water) 1.50 euro

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon 2014 Time Out restaurant terrace

Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon restaurant: fresh seafood

Restaurants and terraces outside the market

Also new are the restaurants outside the old market: we enjoyed fresh Atlantic seafood and a delicious Portuguese wine.

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon new 2014 restaurants terrace

Market Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon: restaurants with terraces

Vacation trip to Lisbon? check the calendar of my 3 bedroom apartment with wonderful patio

‘Time Out’ Food Hall: Gastronomical area near the market hall
Opened May 18 2014.
Opening hours: Sunday to Wednesday 10am to midnight; Thursday to Saturday 10am to 2pm

Thanks to  Thijs Verhoeven