The Lisbon Connection

Lisbon has steadily built up an image of one of the world’s most interesting cities to visit. Its stunning location and historic significance is generously complemented by remarkable aesthetics, making it stand out as one of the few capital cities still human in pace and in scale.

To discover Lisbon in the company of friendly and knowledgeable tour guides is the whole point of Lisbon Walker, overtaking the limitations of guidebooks to unveil the real personality of this unique location. All walking tours are in English.

If you want to join one of the tour guides for a walk through Lisbon, just choose one of the historical tours on the Lisbon Walker Website and all you need to do is show up at the meeting point near Praça do Comércio, according to the timetable of the walks. Regular walking tour ticket (2008) - €15.00 per person/tour. Under 26, over 65, holders of Lisboa Card or valid tickets from TAP, CP or Sightseeing tours: €10.00 per person/tour. Children under 12 free tour. Each walk takes between 2 and 3 hours.

Fish Market

Bairro Alto

Square (Praça) do Carmo

Alfama

Located in the city center, the Lisbon Zoo (Jardim Zoológico) has one of the best zoological collections in the world: more than 2.000 animals and 350 different species approximately, lodged in areas increasingly similar to their natural habitats.

The Lisbon Zoo main entrance is located at the Praça Marechal Humberto Delgado, Sete-Rios, Benfica, open every day from 10:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m (from March - September) and from 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. (October - March).

Picture: Nuno Barreto

Lisbon Zoo youtupe movie http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=iAypaKbi4sc

Most popular atractions: dolphins Bay, started in 1995, now one of the biggest attractions of the Zoo, and the cable car: in 2-persons cabins visitors can enjoy a 20 minutes ride over the Zoo. 

Picture: Paulo Ricardo

Great apes temple, rainbow park, reptile house, children’s farm, sea-lions and pelicans feeding, ‘enchanted forest’: free flying birds presentation.

Picture: Pedro Morais

The Lisbon Zoo is not only a traditional zoological space, it is an important and attractive park where education and amusement are encouraged. The park offers a whole set of attractions where visitors can have a lot of funny and relaxing moments, but, above all, visitors leave with the sense of a day well spent!

Picture: Helder Dias

Entry cost (valid until the 31th of December of 2008): children (under 3 years old) free; children (from 3 to 11 years old) € 11,50 ; adult (from 12 to 64 years old: € 15,00; senior (+ then 65 years old € 12,50; groups from € 13,50

Lisbon Zoo is open every day, website with Attractions and schedules

The Lisbon Zoo, located in the centre of the city, is a place of very easy access, with an excellent railway (Linhas de Sintra, Azambuja e Fertagus), underground railway and buses network.

Cais do Sodré is Lisbon’s major bus, metro, trainstation and ferry terminal to Cacilhas, Seixal, Montijo and ferries to Trafaria and Porto Brandão (near the beaches of Caparica). Or maybe you prefer a cruise on the river Tagus?

Cais do Sodré is serving westbound suburban route to Estoril and Cascais, and subway or bus for any spot in Lisbon. It is adjacent to the Lisbon Metro  station (website incl. network diagram & how to use the metro) of the same name which is the terminus for subway’s Green Line (Linha da Caravela).

Cais do Sodré is situated at Praça do Duque da Terceira (and his Statue) in central Lisbon on the bank of Tagus River. Although the official name is Duque da Terceira Square, everybody knows it by Cais do Sodré. Duque da Terceira was a hero in the Peninsular War (1807-1814) that united Portugal, Great Britain and later Spain against Napoleon. From here you can also take a ferry to river Tagus left bank: Cacilhas, Seixal and Montijo.

Lisbon, Cais do Sodré: Transtejo is the company responsible for the fluvial crossing of the Tagus River. People from the other side of the river have to cross it every day to work in Lisbon or in the environment.The company offers every 10 minutes a ferry to Cacilhas (Almada, district of Setubal), a return ticket cost 1,20 euro (2008). From Cacilhas you can take the bus to the beaches of Caparica.

Transtejo also has Tagus cruises, a tourist service with various types of ships as Catamarans and luxury ferry-boats. A mini cruise on the Tagus River overlooking the city is wonderful, especially at the end of the day the light is unforgettable.

Ferry in Cacilhas. Wonderful views on downtowm Lisbon!

The Portuguese appreciate eating and drinking well. The influence of Portugal’s former colonial possessions is clear, especially in the wide variety of spices used, like piri piri (small, fiery chilli peppers), as well as cinnamon, vanilla and saffron. There’s also Arab and Moorish influences, especially in the south.

Lisbon, pastelaria (cafe) ’O trenta e um (31) , Alfama.

Breakfast: traditionally just coffee and bread, often enjoyed in a pastelaria. Recommended: toast (tosta mista) with ham & cheese (queijo e presunto), or delicious sweet pastries like pastéis de natas, real calorie bombs! Coffee: strong (bica) with milk (galão - garoto), tea (chá) with or without sugar (açúcar). The pastalerias are often a part of the social life in the neighbourhood.

Owner of Taverna do Poco, Largo do Terreirinho, Mouraria, Lisbon. A real traditional Portuguese restaurant where you can have a 5 course meal (cheese, soup, main course, desert, coffee and wine) for only about 10 (2008) euros. This restaurant is only open during the day until around 18:00. (2008).

How to recognize cheap and really Portuguese restaurants?
A little bit disorderly, but very clean; a big TV screen, people like watching TV while eating (a lot of football, futebol), TL-tubes on the ceiling and paper table-covers. Prices (in Lisbon 2008) between 8 and 15 euro (three courses and wine)

There’s a lot of seafood restaurants, many with very beautiful displays of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs, but a big TV-screen (futebol!) is also really important….

Besides: be prepared in the more expensive and touristical restaurants you have to pay for starters like bread, cheese and often olives or shrimps (camarao). They are not a part of the meal! You won’t pay for them if you don’t eat them, and often the waiter will take them away (não, obrigado), no thank you.

Like in all mediterranean countries lunch (almoçar),  is a big affair for Portuguese, served between noon and 3 o’clock, often in a restaurant. Usually three courses, including soup (sopa) like caldo verde (a soup of cabbage and potatoes), fish, like codfish (bacalhau) or charcoal-grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas) or meat (rabbit and pork are very popular), Coelho a caçador (rabbitstew, in red wine), accompanied with a small bottle of red or white wine (uma garaffa de vinho branco ou tinto) or Vinho Verde (a young sparkling ‘green’ wine, low-alcohol). If you don’t feel like experimenting, try a ‘bitoque’. It’s steak and fries, with a fried egg, garlic and rice.

Lunch at home… cheers! (Saúde!), Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s railway- and ferry station, June 2008

Roasted salmon for lunch

Desserts (sobremesas): crême brulée (pudim flan), chocolate mousse and a big variety of almond cakes (amêndoa). Toucinho do céu (bacon of heaven) or barriga de freiras, (nun’s bellies), recipes originally created by nuns in the 17th and 18th Century. Often cheese (queijo), from sheep or goat’s milk. Very popular is ‘queijo da Serra” from the region of Serra da Estrela.

Dinner is served late, after 8 o’clock.

The Portuguese have a very long history with codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. They were the first Europeans to do so. The nickname of bacalhau is ‘fiel amigo’ (faithful friend).

Lisbon: shop Manteigaria Silva, Rua D. Antao de Almada 1-C and D

When you stay for a vacation in Lisbon or in the wonderful country Portugal, a must-try  is bacalhau (dried and salted cod).  The Portuguese adore it and it’s said that they know 365 different ways to cook it…one for each day of the year!

The smell of dried and salted bacalhau is odd and penetrating……pfffffff… but the taste is absolutely delicious when cooked!

Bacaolada, traditional Portuguese bacalhau dish. Bacalhau deserves a good wine: green (Vinho Verde) or mature wines, from Alentejo, Dão or Douro.    

For at least 500 years ago the Portuguese learned how to salt cod at sea and sun-dry it. It keeps for many months this way without refrigeration. And then it requires being soaked for 24 hours in changes of water before being used to prepare a dish. The soaking reconstitutes the fish and gets rid of the excessive salt also. Even today, where refrigeration isn’t a problem, the Portuguese have not lost their love for bacalhau. Dishes based on this main ingredient are sure to be a part of most holiday and other celebrations. It’s a staple of the Portuguese diet and you’ll find it prepared in all Portuguese homes and (cheap) restaurants.

One of the reasons for the popularity of bacalhau in Portugal and other catholic countries, was because of the many days on which the Church forbade the eating of meat.

Very popular: ‘bacalhau à brás’, made from thin strips of cod mixed with onions, and thin strips of potatoes bound by eggs.

Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá, cooked in a casserole with thinly sliced potatoes and onions,  garnished with hard-boiled eggs and black olives.

This recipe was invented by Jose Luis Gomes de Sá  Jr., the son of a rich nineteenth century merchant (apparently he dealt in cod) in Porto. The family fortune dwindled and the son had to find a job at the famous restaurant Lisbonense in downtown Porto. It was there that he created the now well known recipe.

Besides: Pastéis de Bacalhau, croquetes. A delicacy and a good idea with a cold glass of Portuguese white wine  or beer on tap (imperial)!

A very popular restaurant by Portuguese people is restaurant Toma-Lá-dá-Cá, a small place with traditional Portuguese cooking - excellent food and service!

Restaurant Toma-Lá-dá-Cá, Travessa do Sequeiro 38, in June, when all the streets in the historical center are decorated with garlands and lights. June is the month of the ‘Festas dos Santos Populares’ (Feast Days of the Popular Saints).

If you walk around in Bairro Alto, this is the place to go! The restaurant is near the miradouro (view spot) and terrace de Santa Catarina with a spectacular view across the River Tejo to the 25 de April Bridge.

Price: less than 15 €. After 9pm it’s difficult to find a table. Traditional Portuguese cod and grilled hanger steak are the restaurant’s specialties.

If you are a bigger group or over the weekends it might be a problem.  A reservation is not possible,  they are always full!

The Baixa Pombalina is an elegant district, with beautiful buildings. The area is primarily constructed after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. It takes its name from Marquis of Pombal, the Prime Minister to Joseph I of Portugal from 1750 to 1777. Pombal, who kept calm during and after the big earthquake in 1755, renovated the city. He had a reputation of a clever despotic.

Praça do Comércio: friendly policemen show the right way to visitors. 

Near Square Praça do Comércio (follow Rua do Arsenal) is Lisbon’s City Hall (Câmara Municipal), on Praça do Municipao. Visitors can admire the interior on Sunday mornings. The building, with a Neo-Classical facade, was built in 1774 but was completely burned down in 1863. In 1875 the current building was completed.

Baxia: Rua da Conceiçao, with unique buildings and….

…..also unique: in Lisbon there’s still a few proffesional scissors-grinders.   

Baixa area comprises the grid of streets north of the Praça do Comércio, roughly between the Cais do Sodré and the Alfama district beneath the Lisbon Castle ‘Saint George (São Jorge) and extends northwards towards the Rossio- and Figueira squares and the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue)

Rua Nova de Almada, close to Rua Garret, Lisbons’ famous (shopping) street.

Besides: Marquis de Pombals’ statue is on Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue), on the night of June 12 (no cars!), awaiting the famous yearly Santo Antionio costume Parade. All the clubs and associations of Lisbons’ neighbourhoods descend on Avenida da Liberdade to compete for the best parade, music, costume and choreography.

Map Baixa 

 ”Ask me” centers in Lisbon can help you and are happy to dispense advice, maps and brochures. Their staff is multilingual.

‘Ask me’ kiosque in Rua Augusta, near Praça do Comércio.

The beautiful Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) is located near the Tagus River and still commonly known as Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square), because it was the location of the Royal Ribeira Palace (Paços da Ribeira). After the great 1755 Lisbon Earthquake, the square was completely remodelled.

This brand new (2008) Lisboa ‘Ask Me’ Center (Praça do Comércio, phone 00351 21 0312815), is open from 09:00 - 20:00 daily. The Lisbon Gay & Lesbian Guide is available as well. Smaller ‘Ask Me’ kiosques are dotted about the Rossio district and the airport.

Praça do Comércio, April 2007. The statue is King José I, who oversaw the rebuilding of Lisbon, after the great 1755 Lisbon Earthquake.

Lisboa Card (2008)

The Lisboa Card offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €14.85 / €7.50), 48 hour (€25.50 / €12.75) and 72 hour (€31.00 / €15.50) denominations. They are not very good value unless you plan to visit a lot of museums. Especially so if you are a holder of a student identification card (international or national) since the student discounts to these attractions are often the same as for the Lisboa Card.

After buying postcards in Lisbons’ touristical shops or kiosks in Rossio, you need stamps (selos) to send them to your friends or family. ‘Very sorry, no stamps’ (‘Desculpa, não selos’).  

Rossio: a traditional meeting point both for Lisboetas (locals) and visitors.

Besides, Rossio near Restauradores: Portuguese like to drink a ‘Ginjinha’, a liqueur made of berries.

For stamps friendly Portuguese shopowners will explain you how to walk to a nearby postoffice. or they tell you to go to ’Casa da Sorte’ (lottery shop), where’s a little postoffice inside, on Praça Dom Pedro IV, # 120.

As soon as you’re inside, you forget about the stamps….Portuguese people love lotteries! 

In the corner of the lottery shop queen (rainha) Dona Leonor, wife of the 15th century king Dom Manuel I.  She created the ‘Foundação da Misericórdia’ (Foundation for Charity) that is still very active in Portugal today. The original purpose of the Foundation was to build and manage hospitals and homes for the old and needy. Today, the Foundation has spread its wings in obtaining funds and they run all forms of Lotteries in Portugal.

Dom Pedro IV Square, or Rossio (big square), in the evening, one of the most beautiful Squares in Lisbon.

Historical information Rossio:    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rossio

Elegant shopping street Rua Garrett, that leads from the Baixa to Chiado, is named after the author and poet Joao Almedia Garrett (1799-1854). The area is also an important cultural area, with several museums and theatres.

Rua Garett, June 2008. On the background cafe ‘A Brasileira’ terrace. You will see young locals here just socialising or window shopping.

The most famous street of Lisbon, that mixes traditional chic and modern commercial shops, is also beloved by tourists.

Cafe ‘A Brasileira’ (Rua Garrett 120) is famous for having had the enigmatic poet Fernando Pessoa  (1888-1935) among his customers. Pessoa still has his table in bronze on the terrace (the work of sculptor Lagoa Henriques). The man has no idea he’s mobbed by lots of tourists nowadays….

The cafe once was the setting for tertulías literárias (lively discussion groups) in which debate would often culminate in chair throwing, cup smashing and brawls.

‘A Brasileira’ (’The Brazilian woman’), opened in 1905 as a shop selling genuine Brazilian coffee. It was the first shop to sell the ‘bica’, a small cup of strong coffee, similar to espresso.

The interior of ’A Brasileira’ is grandiose: decorated in Art Deco style, with a green-and-gold entrance, mirrored walls, brass fittings, and a long oak bar.

However: bad service and inattentive staff (June 2008).It is a popular tourist destination, and prices are high.