The Lisbon Connection

Restaurant Marisqueira ‘Guarda Rio’, (Antigo Pavilhão da Guarda Fiscal, a former observation point overlooking the river Tagus) is located just near Cais do Sodré, Lisbon’s major bus, metro, train station and ferry terminal. The marisqueira (seafood in Portuguese) is unfailingly fresh, the waiters are very friendly.

The location, right next to the river Tagus, is an ideal place to take just a coffee or a beer after a walk in the center of Lisbon, a typical Portuguese lunch or a romantic night and dinner for 2….

The very old wooden building of the restaurant has a long history.  It was built in 1904, used by the Fiscal Guards (Guarda Fiscal) as an observation post to watch the ‘contrabando’ (smugglers) who arrived by boat from overseas.

Inside the restaurant you can see a picture of the original building.

Three times a fire destroyed parts of the building. In the 30’s it was rebuilt and during the second World War, it was used for operations in support of Jewish people, trying to catch a boat to America. (Portugal was a neutral country).

José Carlos Viejas, the owner of Restaurant ‘Guarda Rio‘ since 1994, and the very friendly waiter Carlos Antunes.

My lunch; a delicious grilled dorado (also known as dolphin-fish) 9 euro, a glass of white wine (um copo de vinho branco) 2,00, small bottle of water (agua) 1:00.

José Carlos Viejas: “in 1994 I bought this place. Due to the fire that destroyed the building it was rebuilt from scratch, going to host a nice coffee house/restaurant with two floors and large windows to show how beautiful the Tagus is”.

September 2008

There are 2 terraces just above river level, one is covered.

Restaurant Marisqueira Guarda Rio
Rua da Cintura Armazem 22, Cais do Sodré, Lisbon
Antigo Pavilhão da Guarda Fiscal
Thursday, Friday and Saturday open from 11:00h/02:00h
Monday - Wednesday from 11:00/ 24:00h
Sunday from 19:00

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Vintage port is made only in exceptional years, must be bottled within 2 years of the harvest date and be 100 % wine from that harvest. The magic of Vintage Port is different in every phase: as a young wine its captures the useful fruit characters, then after 20 years or more the effects of the slow bottle age integration are revealed and finally, after many decades the spirit dominates the wine. Vintage Port is amazing in all the three phases. A sua Saúde (to your health) !

Famous poster ‘the kiss’. As the couple leans together for a kiss, playful cupid offers them a glass of Ramos Pinto Port instead. ‘The kiss’ is one of the most recognized wine posters in the world. Founder of this Port House, Adriano Ramos Pinto, strongly believed in promotion both in Portugal and his primary market, Brazil. He backed his product with well-planned sales drive based on artistic advertisements.

The Napoleão wine shops, existing for more than 50 years in Lisbon, are specialised in the best Portuguese wines and Port wines. They can explain you all about the best Vintage years of the 20th Century.

You can taste the Port Wines for free and appreciate an exemplary service.

”Of course, all the vintage years are very good, but some years are exceptional compared with the others”.

Napoleão, Rua dos Fanqueiros, 70, Lisbon, world wide delivery. A new store of the Napoleão family (in the same street). Besides: they also sell 10 years old Port wines, Portuguese wines like Vinho Verde, Aguardentes (similar to Cognac, Schnapps or Grappa) and the legendary wild Cherries Liqueur Ginjinha.

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At the urban handicrafts Fair, Ladra Alternativa, you can find every type of item, from jewellery to home utensils, always with the knowledge that you are buying unique and original items for a cheap price. If you happen to be around: four times a year this indoor fair is held at the Dr Magalhães Lima Cultural Centre, Rua do Salvador, 2A

All creations have in mind the reutilization and recycling of materials. At this Fair in Alfama, the Ladra Alternativa, you’ll find very creative Portuguese designers showing their work like jewellery, arts, crafts and fashion accessories.

You might have been visited Lisbon’s legendary ‘Feira da Ladra” flea market. Although this flea market has slightly the same name, “alternativa” (alternative) points to a different way of approaching this kind of market.

A few years ago (2006) a group of young creators came together to present their work. The market started out as an experiment, but it has really become a great success.

This alternative flea market introduces local Portuguese creators in jewellery, painting, fashion, photography and others. It’s an informal interpretation of art and you will be impressed with the very creative designs!

I bought Christmas decoration made from used Nespresso capsules, price: 3 euro.

You’ll have the chance to talk to the person who created what you’re buying, change ideas, thoughts and experiences.

Ladra Alternativa, email ladralternativa@gmail.com

2009: in July, September, November and in February 2010, more details on the website.
Opening hours: Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Price: free, there’s no ATM machine, so bring cash.

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Teatro Nacional Doña Maria II has a strange history, like a lot of historical buildings in Lisbon. It was built on the ruins of one of the city’s finest buildings, the Palácio dos Estaus, which had burned down and which had housed the court of the Holy Inquisition. The liberal revolution and the end of the civil war created a climate in Portugal that was conducive to the development of arts in general and the theatre in particular.

In 1836, by order of Queen D. Maria II, Almeida Garrett (famous author and poet) was charged with creating a conservatoire for the dramatic arts. The site chosen for this colossal task was the finest in the city at Praça Dom Pedro IV, commemorates Portugal’s first liberal king. The square is usually simply referred to as Rossio (big square).

The theatre opened to the public on April 13 1846, the date of the anniversary of the queen it is named after, but the acoustics were poor and the theatre closed the very next day for improvements. It reopened several years later to notable success. In late November 1964, the theatre staged Shakespeare’ Macbeth. A strange superstition, or more appropiately a curse, hangs over theatres that perform this play: one week after the first show the whole building burned down except for its outer walls. It was reopened in 1978. Since then, countless plays, by the finest playwrights of the past and of today, have been performed and staged.

Today, Teatro D. Maria II is not merely a concert hall. Besides its majestic Garrett room, it also has a smaller room, while the great hall has been turned into a theatre/ studio, covering a whole world of activities that very often burst out from behind its venerable walls.

On the other side of the theatre you’ll find the unique Rossio train- and metro station (Estação do Rossio)

You can discover the theatre (or take the time to enjoy a good show). From Monday to Friday 10:00 am to 13:00/ 15:00 to 17:00 there’re guided tours, in several languages, to the backstage of the theatre. A journey that reveals the secrets and stories of Teatro Nacional D. Maria II. Price 6 euro.

Christmas 2008. Café Garrett, beside the theatre’s foyer, one of the most perfectly located cafés in Lisbon, facing the lively Rossio Square

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Since 2005, Lisbon has become home to some of the world’s finest hostels, offering more than just ‘bed and breakfast’, from  €18-20. These places afford comfort and quality to create a happy and festive atmosphere where different languages and cultures can mix.

The Living Lounge Hostel is an exponent of the ’boutique hostel’ genre. Themed dormitories and bedroons evoke figures from Portuguese history like Amália Rodrigues and Pessoa, Portugals famous poet and writer. Located in the heart of Lisbon: Baixa. From €18 (low season - winter time) to €22 (high season) with breakfast and internet - Wifi included.

Traveller’s House, located in a 250 year old building right in the heart of the historical Baixa area, within a walking distance to all major attractions and nightlife. The atmosphere is young and carefree. From €20.

Lisbon Poets Hostel. ‘Bring one book with you and pick up another one from the library’. Located one step away from Bairro Alto, the famous nightlife district. From €18.

Lisbon Story Guesthouse .This guesthouse also has themed-bedrooms, like the luxury  ‘O Escritor’ (the author) room: it pays a homage to Portuguese writers. From € 50-80(double room).

‘Lisbon Calling’ , a newly established €20 Hostel, fully renovated, in the heart of the city old centre. You can bring your own recipes.

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Les Mauvais Garçons is a very popular spot in Lisbon. It’s a small, cosy ”très-chic” cafe/restaurant in the heart of Lisbon’s famous Bairro Alto quarter.

They serve delicious Spanish dishes like gaspacho and tortilhas, Italian (lasagna, spaguetti, also vegetarian) and Portuguese dishes inspired by the French cuisine.

The charismatic owner David García González was born in Spain, lived in France and about 3 years ago he moved to Lisbon.

Besides you can rent one of the apartments in this entirely restored Art Nouveau building. More info Les Suites du Bairro Alto  

Our choice: salada salmão e chevre (salad with salmon and chevre, 11 euro) and tourte au canard (10.50). Glass of wine (2.00) , Capirinha (6.00).

The cafe in the afternoon. You can relax in the deep leather armchairs, or bring your laptop (wi-fi internet connection). Try their Portuguese cakes: tarte de maçã com gelado de baunilha or bolo de dois chocolates.

Les Mauvais Garçons (the bad boys). Rua da Rosa 39, open from 12:00 to 24:00. In the restaurant a lot of vintage pictures hang on the walls.

Rua da Rosa in the afternoon. Lisbon’s nightlife in Bairro Alto

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Suckling pig has been a delicacy since ancient times. In many European countries it’s a traditional Christmas entrée; the dish is usually reserved for special occasions. Traditionally it is roasted. A real speciality in Portugal, known as leitão assado a lenha.

Suckling pig is a young pig that has only fed on its mother’s milk. The piglets are slaughtered between the ages of 2 and 4 weeks… For me, it looks so pitiful!

Roasted pig ‘Siumei’ is served whole at Chinese weddings as a symbol of the bride’s virginity, although the same pig is said to symbolize both virility and prosperity.

Suckling pig is also a special occasion dish in the Philippines, a custom brought with the Spanish. In Cuba, the dish is traditionally served on New Year’s Day and it’s served for the Hawaiian lu’au, covered with banana leaves and cooked in a pit.

It seems to be gorgeous. If you like it, go to Pasteleria ‘A Merendinha’ (The snack) in Lisbon, Rua Condes de Monsanto 4-a, close to Praça da Figueira.

The European cuisines of Romania, Spain, Germany, Croatia and Georgia favor it highly as well. It also accompanies goose as the traditional Christmas feast of families in Russia and Serbia. There are many recipes found from as far back as ancient Rome.

Beautiful azulejos (tiles)!

The suckling pig’s popularity has declined in the United States and the United Kingdom. However, it retains a place in Cajun cuisine in the southern U.S., where the Cochon de Lait festival is held annually in the small town of Mansura, Louisiana.

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If you like to walk around outside of tourist areas go to Saldaña , the fashionable Avenidas Novas (a part of Lisbon built in the 1950s), with department stores, cinemas, museums, supermarkets and libraries.

Avenida da República near Saldaña square. A must-do is to have breakfast or lunch in the wonderful old tea- and lunchroom Pastelaria Versailles (opened in 1922) which has it’s own bakery.

Praça Duque de Saldaña. Monument of the great liberal Marshal who gives the square its name. Designed by Thomaz Costa and Ventura Terra, unveiled in 1909. The base of the monument contains a bronze figure of victory. At Saldaña Square there’s the highly frequented cinema Monumental where many young Portuguese meet in the bar of the cinema, ‘Movies’ .

Famous restaurant Galeto, a classic spot. Avenida Da República, 14. Open from 07.30 am - 03.30 (!). Delicious food and quite cheap (dinner and snacks). Galeto is well known in Lisbon for its friendly and courteous service.

Market mercado de Arroios , fresh fish, flowers and fruit. Arroios is a very atmospheric working class neighborhood with great markets and very good prices in restaurants and shops.

Estefania: a nice and very quiet area, with lots of typical Portuguese small business ‘mom and pop’ and food shops.

Rua Ilha da Terceira, Estefania. To eat out, try the pastelerias (cheap small restaurants, great Portugese food). Not one tourist in sight…..Chiado, Baixia and Alfama are easily reached by public transport, and even at night a taxi isn’t more than 5 euros.

The bill? Grilled salmon 5,50 euro, soup 0,90. A glass of wine 0,75.

Luxury shopping center Saldanha, quite near Avenida da Liberdade, (Liberty Avenue). This broad boulevard is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees in Paris with lots of luxury boutiques selling international brands. 

Marquis of Pombals’ statue , a despotic marquis….more…..The Rotunda, or, officially, Praça do Marqués de Pombal

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Mouraria, one of the oldest, historical areas in Lisbon, is an intriguing earthy place. Nowadays it’s a melting pot: there are the people with their origin from the once Portuguese colonies, especially from Angola, Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau, São Tomé and Príncipe Islands, but also from other African countries; the Indian and the Chinese, the biggest representatives of Asia. There’s lots of small shops: typical Portuguese, Indian and a lot of Chinese. In the Mouraria shopping centre, you’ll find African hairdressers, Indian and Chinese food stores and all manner of Brazilian kitsch and knock-off gold in between.

Tomé Costa, owner of the African hairshop in Mouraria: ” We started in 1998 in the same street, a very small place. About 2 years ago we opened our new saloon (12, Calçada da Mouraria). Among our clients are tourists, but also lots of people who live in this neighbourhood. We are very happy with this place’. ‘ Our parents moved to Portugal, we are born here, coming from the São Tomé and Príncipe Islands , a former Portuguese colony located near the northwestern coast of Gabon”. (The islands achieved independence in 1975).

They offer ladies, gentlemen and children haircuts (from 5-8,50 euro), colouring (from 15 euro), manicure, pedicure and make-up (Kerli products) ; or maybe you prefer an old-fashioned barbershop-shave? (3,50)

The atmosphere in the saloon is very warm and welcoming, the staff is super friendly. While waiting for clients these two nice ladies enjoy the music….

Ankls Leima Sacramento Neto

The saloon is open from Monday to Saturday 09:00 - 19:00, Sundays and Holidays from 10:00 - 17:00.

On the wall: the latest Afro haircut trends for men and women 2009.

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‘Blues‘, located on the banks of the Tagus River, is a distinghuished restaurant/bar in Lisbon. Inspired by the Louisiana traditional architecture, it offers an atmosphere to the sound of blues and jazz. ‘Blues’, a mixture of restaurant, bar and discotheque, is a famous hotspot, very popular by the Lisbon nightscene.

Here you can enjoy the restaurant, the nightclub (Fridays and Saturdays, 1am to 5am) and the bars, where ambience music alternates with live music shows. There are four bars (smoking and non-smoking) and lounge areas with large comfortable chairs.

Downstairs, the enormous place is divided into a smoking and a non-smoking lounge area (20-25 people in each area), also offering the possibility for a romantic dinner.

The crew is very professional and dynamic. Dulcineia Miranda (r). The bars of BluesCafé offer a comfortable and cosy atmosphere. A glass of house wine €2, beer €3 to €5.

On Fridays and Saturdays disco opens at 01.00 until 05.00 am. The musical choice includes the commercial hits of the moment, disco, Latin and the eighties. More… Blues‘ interior is richly decorated with mahogany and palm trees (some of which reach almost the ceiling). There’s an outdoor terrace overlooking the yacht harbour of Lisbon.

Angelia Oliveira

The international recognised cuisine offers next to various dishes, 5 menus (one vegetarian) €42 - €49, Portuguese wines from different regions €5,50 - €98 a bottle and, for a special occasion, champaign (Moet et Chandon) €70 - €250 (Dom Perignon Vintage).

We enjoyed clams and mussels ceviche €11,75, Coquilles St. Jacques €9,25, ‘Voodoo’ chicken’ €10,50 and veal sirloin steak with rose pepper sauce €16,50.

The white house wine is a Portuguese gem: Lisa, produced on the slopes of Serra da Arrábida, Sado region, €9,50 a bottle.

One of the delicious desserts (Portugese: sobremesas): paper-thin crispy pastry with strawberries and ice cream €5,50.

If you wish you can have dinner upstairs, there’s also a cosy bar and an elegant lounge for dining.

The yacht harbour of Lisbon. Blues Cafe, part of a row of former warehouses, on the leftside.

Blues, Rua Cintura Porto Armz H Nave 3, 1200 Lisbon.
blues@bluescafe.pt
Restaurant open from 20:00pm - 01:00am
Bar: 20:00 - 04:00 am
Closed Sunday and Monday. Tel. 00351 213957085

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